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Most El Cap Solos?

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Kate Robertson aka Batgirl has soloed six El Cap routes: 

  • Mescalito 
  • Native Son 
  • Horse Play 
  • Never Never Land 
  • Lost World 
  • Squeeze play

She thinks she's climbed 26 different routes that she can remember, but it could be more. 

Good ol Batgirl has certainly led more hard aid pitches on El Cap than any other woman, including some real nasty stuff on routes like Wyoming Sheep Ranch, Born Under A Bad Sign, Bad Seed and KAOS amongst others.  

Bob Crawford · · tucson az · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 4

Climbed with Kate in the meadows for about a week, about ten years ago. lost track of her but have heard some magical things about her exploits. Man, what a fun person to climb with and solid. One of the nicest people I have ever been on a rope with, I trust she is well. best regards Bob Crawford Valdez Alpine Club PS, and if she ever gets tired of all this world class climbing there is always that modelling career! Go Kate!

Mike "trad" Nelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

2 times

Nose 1996

Zodiac 1998

first one hurt

second one was fun

 

Bailey Moore · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 545

Soloing zodiac was fun, the hauling was super easy even with a junk show in tow. I'm excited to try another in 2025.

Olly Tippett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

Not that he’d spray about it himself, but I’m pretty sure Regan is on 15 different El Cap solos and still going strong.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Olly Tippett wrote:

Not that he’d spray about it himself, but I’m pretty sure Regan is on 15 different El Cap solos and still going strong.

Who is this Regan and is there anywhere I can learn about them and their solos?

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 952
Ricky Harline wrote:

Who is this Regan and is there anywhere I can learn about them and their solos?

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/marek-raganowicz-solo-climbs-plastic-surgery-disaster-on-el-capitan.html

He was on it while we were in Zodiac.  Seriously proud work

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 50
Ricky Harline wrote:

Who is this Regan and is there anywhere I can learn about them and their solos?

He’s pretty crazy. He was on the straw this fall when I was in Virginia.

Not el cap related but his recent solo in Baffin:
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/marek-raganowicz-completes-35-day-big-wall-solo-first-ascent-baffin-island-polar-sun-arm.html

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Good ol Marek....  Lots of stuff here. 

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/18ft9A5rha/

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BhHpmRcaY/

Regan is quite the purist. He attempted to solo what may be El Cap's hardest route, Nightmare on California street, but backed off on the first pitch when he was unable to make a move, almost certainly because feature that the first ascensionists used had fallen off.

"Dude!" I exclaimed. "If the feature is gone, it's okay to drill a rivet for crying out loud!"

Nope. 

"I won't drill on someone else's route," he told me adamantly. 

He soloed NA Wall instead.

Olly Tippett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0
Peter Zabrok wrote:

Good ol Marek....  Lots of stuff here. 

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/18ft9A5rha/

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BhHpmRcaY/

Regan is quite the purist. He attempted to solo what may be El Cap's hardest route, Nightmare on California street, but backed off on the first pitch when he was unable to make a move, almost certainly because feature that the first ascensionists used had fallen off.

"Dude!" I exclaimed. "If the feature is gone, it's okay to drill a rivet for crying out loud!"

Nope. 

"I won't drill on someone else's route," he told me adamantly. 

He soloed NA Wall instead.

The end of that story is that he came back a few years later and led the whole pitch without drilling, justifying not adding anything first time around.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645
Olly Tippett wrote:

The end of that story is that he came back a few years later and led the whole pitch without drilling, justifying not adding anything first time around.

Did not know that. How did he get past the blank bit? 

But he only did the first pitch? 

Olly Tippett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

I think I remember him saying that the second time he had some new small beaks that were a little more inspiring in the placement he bailed from below the first time.

He told me he bailed the second time after he ripped something like 8 heads that he had just replaced in a factor 2 fall onto the belay on pitch 2. He said he realised the route would take a really long time and didn’t want to compromise his ethics by fixing pitches.

Dan Mydans · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

Not to put the spotlight on you Olly but it seems like you’ve racked up quite a few solos as well. How many have you done?

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

For those interested, here’s a link to some of Regan’s trip reports on ST:

http://www.supertopo.com/trsearch.php?s=last_reply_date&o=ASC&v=0&ftr=regan&cur=0

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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