Climbing in Laguna Beach

anyone have any info on the routes or bolts in laguna canyon. Found an old map of temple rock that has bolts but not sure if it is only toproped.

Temple Rock is not very good, and those routes were established in the early 1970s (that topo dates from early 70s too), so the bolts (1/4 inchers - whatever may be left) are unrealiable in the soft sandstone.

Apparently, some people visited the area in the last couple years and did some TRing and may have added bolts(?).  If you live nearby (like - really nearby), it might be worth a visit, but don't expect much.  You can either approach from:

(1) Top of The World area (Alta Laguna Park), hiking north on the West Ridge Trail a short distance, before heading left and down (west-ish) to join up with Canyon Acres Fireroad.  You will want to then cut left (south-ish) off the fireroad to access the top of the band of sandstone, of which Temple Rock is the leftmost (closest) part.
OR
(2) Park at the end of Canyon Acres Drive and hike up Canyon Acres Fireroad, the cut off right to the crag. This approach is all (steep) uphill, but you can at least see the crag on the approach.

Better, but very limited, climbing is found on the 5 Minute Crag. "Better" in this context is relative. If you are expecting something good, probably neither of these areas should be on your list. The 5 Minute crag has 3 Sport routes, on soft sandstone. Lack of use usually means holds may be sandy or loose. The bolts on the 5 Minute Crag are 5.5 inch by 1/2 inch and are should be ok (ymmv).

5 Minute Crag is not a summer area (faces west and hot). Also, don't climb either of these areas for a week or more after rains.

Randy wrote: Temple Rock is not very good, and those routes were established in the early 1970s (that topo dates from early 70s too), so the bolts (1/4 inchers - whatever may be left) are unrealiable in the soft sandstone.

Apparently, some people visited the area in the last couple years and did some TRing and may have added bolts(?).  If you live nearby (like - really nearby), it might be worth a visit, but don't expect much.  You can either approach from:

(1) Top of The World area (Alta Laguna Park), hiking north on the West Ridge Trail a short distance, before heading left and down (west-ish) to join up with Canyon Acres Fireroad.  You will want to then cut left (south-ish) off the fireroad to access the top of the band of sandstone, of which Temple Rock is the leftmost (closest) part.
OR
(2) Park at the end of Canyon Acres Drive and hike up Canyon Acres Fireroad, the cut off right to the crag. This approach is all (steep) uphill, but you can at least see the crag on the approach.

Better, but very limited, climbing is found on the 5 Minute Crag. "Better" in this context is relative. If you are expecting something good, probably neither of these areas should be on your list. The 5 Minute crag has 3 Sport routes, on soft sandstone. Lack of use usually means holds may be sandy or loose. The bolts on the 5 Minute Crag are 5.5 inch by 1/2 inch and are should be ok (ymmv).

5 Minute Crag is not a summer area (faces west and hot). Also, don't climb either of these areas for a week or more after rains.

thanks man. What about any other crags in the area. I live in town and just wanting to find some stuff thats close. 

Careful a buddy of mine got busted by park rangers and they gave him a $500 fine for vandalizing. The charges were dropped but he was specifically told not to climb there again

Climbing is entirely legal. It is also in City of Laguna Beach open space (not Aliso Woods Park). There are no rules against bolting. OC Park Rangers should know better and probably do. Assert your rights to climb choss!

Randy wrote: Temple Rock is not very good, and those routes were established in the early 1970s (that topo dates from early 70s too), so the bolts (1/4 inchers - whatever may be left) are unrealiable in the soft sandstone.

Apparently, some people visited the area in the last couple years and did some TRing and may have added bolts(?). If you live nearby (like - really nearby), it might be worth a visit, but don't expect much. You can either approach from:

(1) Top of The World area (Alta Laguna Park), hiking north on the West Ridge Trail a short distance, before heading left and down (west-ish) to join up with Canyon Acres Fireroad. You will want to then cut left (south-ish) off the fireroad to access the top of the band of sandstone, of which Temple Rock is the leftmost (closest) part.
OR
(2) Park at the end of Canyon Acres Drive and hike up Canyon Acres Fireroad, the cut off right to the crag. This approach is all (steep) uphill, but you can at least see the crag on the approach.

Better, but very limited, climbing is found on the 5 Minute Crag. "Better" in this context is relative. If you are expecting something good, probably neither of these areas should be on your list. The 5 Minute crag has 3 Sport routes, on soft sandstone. Lack of use usually means holds may be sandy or loose. The bolts on the 5 Minute Crag are 5.5 inch by 1/2 inch and are should be ok (ymmv).

5 Minute Crag is not a summer area (faces west and hot). Also, don't climb either of these areas for a week or more after rains.

Hi Randy, you mentioned the 5 Minute Crag. Is this area located in Laguna Beach? A friend of mine and I went to Temple Rock to scope out bolts/anchors. There is a chain at the top now that appears to be bolted to rock and/or secured to a living tree, but I'm not sure if it's trustworthy. We did some of the Class 3 scrambles but did not toprope due to uncertainty about the chain. Any information about the 5 Minute Crag is greatly appreciated.

Here are some simple directions to the 5 Minute Crag:

From PCH, take Thalia up to where the road makes a sharp right, it now becomes Temple Hills Drive. Drive up Temple Hills Drive for a mile+ or so (not sure of distance). You will eventually see a watertank on the hillside to the right. This is shortly before reaching Zell St. Park on the right side of the road, below the Watertank. Walk to the watertank. You should be able to see the crag off to your right, below a large house. There are usually some rough game trails that you can traverse to reach the base. Alternatively, but not recommended, proceed up Temple Hills Drive to Zell, turn right and follow it to Zurich (a very short street on your right). The crag lies directly below Zurich and the house on the right (not recommended as you have to traverse along the top of the cliff -- the house's backyard) then descend the far side of the cliff and the traverse along the base back left).

See map below.Cliff can be seen as diagonal line at bottom of photo, just right of center. The Watertank and Temple Hills Drive is near the top of the photo just left of center. A Very Soft brush (a Paintbrush might be ideal) for cleaning holds might help. Left route is 5.12b/c, right route is 5.10d, with a variation to the right that joins the right route higher up 5.11). Chain Anchors. 8 draws or so should be enough for any of the routes. 

The crag is about 150+ tall and not something you can top rope. The routes DO NOT top out. They end about 50 - 60 feet up the crag, near the center of the crag. The top part of the crag is even more loose and chossy and not really climbable.

Proceed at your own risk!

My name is Peter Hemming. I grew in Laguna in the 1960' and 70's. I started climbing when I was 13 years old when my folks moved there in 1964. I learned to climb on Laguna sand stone. Most of the big rocks you'll find on Top of the World, were climbed by me. Even the big cliff you call 5 minute crag, which is actually named Rim Rock, which I climbed when I and a friend of mine, Scott Byington did it when we were 16. We started at the base, which was overhanging and I had bolt over it to reach a horizontal line of pebbles embedded in the rock. I did a finger traverse to the left, reaching a loose area which climbed for almost a 3rd of the wall and reached a triangular ledge (shades of camp 6). A very sandy corner lead to the top, which I couldn't free climb so I bolted around the corner and off the cliff. We even got written up in the local newspaper. I went back a few year later and all the bolts I placed were removed. I guess some arm chair Royal Robbins chopped them all al'a to my Warren Harding. Later of course, I went to Tahqiutz, Yosemite, Devils Tower, the Alps and other places. If you look around there are many places with good rock. In Laguna I learned to place pitons, chimney technique, climb clacks and rappel. It made me the climber I later became. PHDH