Need recommendations for trad Climbing shoes
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Hello everyone! I am looking for a new trad climbing shoe. The shoes I have now are the Scarpa Maestros and they are not comfortable for multi-pitch climbing. I've seen a lot of pull for TC pros but I'm used to climbing in Scarpa. Are the Scarpa Generators worth the time or should I invest in a different shoe? Please let me know your thoughts. |
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Can you tell us more about where and what you mostly climb? I.e. small edges, crack, slab, etc.. In any case, could also be a sizing thing? I go up 1/2 to a full size for long days on the wall. I love my TC Pros and they're bonafide killers from a performance perspective but not everyone likes the way they fit. My partner, for example, gets some chafing on her achilles from them and prefers the 5.10 Grandstone as her preferred all-day shoe. |
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Size up and wear very thin socks. |
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Madison Leighliter wrote: I think it depends a bit on what kind of climbing you’re doing too. TC’s and Scarpas are great for all day crack climbing and slab climbing. Basically what you’d find on a long moderate granite route. Scarpa Genrators are a lot wider than TC’s. Both are super stiff and have ankle protection.
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I’ve been surprised by how much I like my 5.10 grandstones. I got them for free- not something I’d have considered buying beforehand, having not been a fan of the adidas version of 5.10’s. I’ve had them about 8 months. I expected they’d fall apart right away like the 5.10 guides I bought 5 or 6 years ago did but they have held up great, preforming well, and comfortable all day. I usually roll with LS and climb at Seneca a lot. I’ll give the grandstones a shout out. |
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The new TC's added a pressure point on my forefoot so I tried something else, and the grandstones absolutely rock. I have two pairs with a combined 3 resoles so far. They definitely hold up |
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Andrew Giniat wrote: I guess i climb a little bit of everything. I'm heading out west to climb from Pacific Northwest to Southwest. I guess a shoe that is going to be comfy but perform well on all types of rock. |
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Katana lace. |
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Skwama… you like scarpa though so perhaps the new/old Boostics? |
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Find a pair that fit you and are comfortable. There are a thousand different shoes out there and you'll get about that many different recommendations from people. It's best to go to a good climbing shop and try on shoes to see what fits or not. |
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Check out the Black Diamond Aspect and Aspect Pro. TCs hurt my achilles as well |
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This is 100% a personal choice based on fit and feel of your own feet. For me personally, I wear scarpa maestro’s as my all-day, multi pitch shoe. But that’s me. You obviously don’t find them as comfortable. That could be a sizing issue, but likely just a problem with how they fit your foot. Fwiw, I love La sportivas, and have a pair of old katanas and solutions that I have resoled several times each. When I was looking for a comfortable shoe, I first tried TC pros, assuming that since the other La sportivas fit me well, so would these. Turned out that they just were uncomfortable. Switched to the Maestros, which are the only scarpa shoe that I’ve ever been happy with the fit. I honestly love them. Point is that every person, every foot and every shoe is different. Find what works for you. |
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Just try all the slip-ons until you find a pair that fits. |
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It's all about finding the right shoe and the right size for you. I've sized up my TCs like three times and every time I'm like "wow crack climbing is so much better now!" |
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Judging by your ticks, you probably don't need something super aggressive. The scarpa helix is a pretty underrated trad shoe, in my opinion, that might work well for you. Way more comfortable than the maestros, good for cracks and everything else except the smallest edges, and almost half the price of the 'high end' shoes. The helix has become pretty much my sole trad shoe, and I've also found myself reaching for them for sport and bouldering over the past couple years, just because they're so damn comfortable. |
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I recommend to pick the shoe that fits. |
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you say you're used to climbing scarpa -- which shoe? I like the instincts for hard edging, but the generator heel feels completely wrong. what others have said -- for a cheap, high-mileage all-day comfort shoe, you'll just want something like an up mocc with roomy sizing. |
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Mitchell L wrote: I climb almost exclusively in La Sportiva. Of the models currently available I have Mythos, Katana Lace, Katana Velcro, and Kataki. So you'd think I have a La Sportiva foot. But the last time I needed to replace my Mythos and get another all day easy crack shoe, I tried on a range of sizes of TC Pro, just to see what all the brouhaha was about, and they hurt my Achilles immediately. |
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Another vote for Butora Alturas (the poor man's TC Pros). But like Garrett above I also have narrow feet. |