Japan Sport Climbing Beta

We are looking for beta on sport climbing areas in Japan. My partner is of Japanese descent and we are looking at a Japan trip within the next two years. Most of her extended family is on Kyushu and she also wants to visit Okinawa.
We are well aware of Ogawayama, but are looking for something a little less rainy and more bolt-clipping oriented.
I haven’t been able to find much information, at least not in English, and any beta would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Bump, anyone?

Maybe look at Hyugami Gorge, Kyushu.  I have never climbed there though.

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/japan/area/841622148

https://climbhyugami.blogspot.com/?fbclid=IwAR3EdmQ1OCrlHraH7OB7bePLCzWzxg2iEbekquUTik3K_l18L0Iec4Lt_6Y&m=1

Rob

Thank you, Rob. Any beta is greatly appreciated as we plan this trip. 

Anyone else?  I want to be a beta sponge :-)

https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E6%9C%AC%E5%8C%A0/

https://m.facebook.com/honjoucsc/

Takuya Nakamura wrote:

https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E6%9C%AC%E5%8C%A0/

https://m.facebook.com/honjoucsc/

Thanks!  I’ll have to run it through a translation app, but this looks awesome!

Bump. Heading out in May- ideally something accessible by train from Tokyo, but we can rent a car. 

I recommend sending an email to Tracy at Niseko Mountain Guides. He’s a former American who’s been living in Japan over the last 20+ years so may be able to share information on routes and other trip planning ideas. Good luck!

Useful!  Thanks!!!

Random Climber wrote:

Bump. Heading out in May- ideally something accessible by train from Tokyo, but we can rent a car. 

There is limestone sport climbing in Okutama. Next to Mitake. Easy access by train.

Random Climber wrote:

Bump. Heading out in May- ideally something accessible by train from Tokyo, but we can rent a car. 

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/japan/tokyo/area/9919870377

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/japan/ogawayama

Both close to Tokyo. Granite rock in Ogawayama.

90 min car drive in the first crag. The second one is further inland, around 3h drive. No idea about public transport though. 

Yeah, Ogawayama is well on my radar and it has a pretty good online guide book. However, it mostly trad climbing and bouldering (need to bring a rack and/or pad), and it is very rainy.

Have you been there, Giraud?

People I know. But as you said it's rainy as Japan itself is a rainy country itself and often unpredictable. It can go hard for 1/2 h then off and on again. But def. avoid summer: very hot & humid. Oct-Nov are the best months. 

There are a lot of bolt clipping around both Ogawayama and Mizugaki. The Japanese equivalent of mountain project is probably rock-topo ( rocktopo.net/); with some trial and error (+google translate) you can find most of the good climbing areas.

Thanks for the links Ben! Been dreaming of climbing there