Blue Ice Harfang Tech opinions?

Greg Steele wrote:

Seems like with as much adjustment the harfang heels have in the nail (with the knob) you chills shorten the strap under the sole and accommodate that with the heel lever?

You are probably right, I was quickly switching between a couple pairs of boots and didn't really spend that much time dialing them in. I am still in the "first look" phase of reviewing these.

But that's not why I reopened this thread. I have some amazing news, that might be of interest to one maybe two climbers on this entire forum. The Harfang Techs fit with the Auftriib Saucers! I got these light ascent plates for ski couloiring, but always wanted a super lightweight pair of slow shoes to approach ice climbs. No real steel crampon in my quiver came close to working with a Saucers (the front piece on most crampons is too large), but the Harfangs, both Tours and Techs, do. 

Ok, get back to training, ice season is only six months away.

Doug Hutchinson wrote:

You are probably right, I was quickly switching between a couple pairs of boots and didn't really spend that much time dialing them in. I am still in the "first look" phase of reviewing these.

But that's not why I reopened this thread. I have some amazing news, that might be of interest to one maybe two climbers on this entire forum. The Harfang Techs fit with the Auftriib Saucers! I got these light ascent plates for ski couloiring, but always wanted a super lightweight pair of slow shoes to approach ice climbs. No real steel crampon in my quiver came close to working with a Saucers (the front piece on most crampons is too large), but the Harfangs, both Tours and Techs, do. 

Thanks for sharing, I have always wanted to try plates on ice boots rather than touring boots. Specifically the CRAMPLIFIER.

Finn Lanvers wrote:

Thanks for sharing, I have always wanted to try plates on ice boots rather than touring boots. Specifically the CRAMPLIFIER.

The Auftriib Suacers work well even on technical ice. I took an early pair to Alaska in 2022 and they were great for climbing snow up and over a techy bergscrund crossing. My partner and I have been surprised that they haven't caught on for more alpine climbs where snow wallowing is a good probability and a huge waste of energy (climbs like the Cassin Ridge.)

@NateC which crampons did you use with your saucers?

Doug Hutchinson wrote:

@NateC which crampons did you use with your saucers?

I was using Petzl Darts on that trip. I’ve used a few different crampons with them though. 

NateC wrote:

I was using Petzl Darts on that trip. I’ve used a few different crampons with them though. 

Good to know. I could not get Bladerunners or Snaggletooths to fit in the Saucers.

Edit - I guess I did not try to loosen the cord a lot to expand forward, I just tried to cram in my ice pons in the setup I dialed for my Harfang Tours. I badly cut/frayed the original cord that came with the saucers the first day I used them, and then modified with a different cord and protective tubing. Now, I also wonder if I purchased a larger size, they would fit better with full ice crampons.

Anybody have more opinions on these? Drytooling opinions would be especially helpful. Tryna decide between these and the darts. Won’t be climbing too hard, just leading up to AI4 and M5

I really want to like these, but have not been able to get them dialed yet. The strap keeps loosen up (~.5”) and one eventually pops off. I adjust them before each use but had four days of them popping off. 

Reasons it could be happening: 1) it’s currently low-tide and stepping on uneven terrain is loosening up the strap (not trying to step on stuff but hard to avoid right now); 2) things have been wet and warm (not freezing) so maybe that’s also contributing to the strap loosening; 3) I may need the shorter strap to dial in for my boot size (41.5) 

When they’re not coming off, they’re great. Hoping the shorter strap and more snow on the approach helps

Lisa K wrote:

I really want to like these, but have not been able to get them dialed yet. The strap keeps loosen up (~.5”) and one eventually pops off. I adjust them before each use but had four days of them popping off. 

I was considering the mountaineering version of this (harfang), but you have dissuaded me of trying it. It sounds like it is useful for cragging and then only maybe.  

Lisa K wrote:

The strap keeps loosen up (~.5”) and one eventually pops off.

That seems excessive... I have a pair of harfangs (not the techs) and there was some settling, but maybe 0.1" total. Just checking, but you do have the strap doubled back?  Seems you shouldn't need a shorter strap, you could trim any excess. But also any excess should be captured under the boot.

Shepido wrote:

I was considering the mountaineering version of this (harfang), but you have dissuaded me of trying it. It sounds like it is useful for cragging and then only maybe.  

I've used the Harfang crampon on multiple PNW glacier climbs - no issues at all with the center straps coming loose, the trick was to put them on my boots a week in advance of my first climb and progressively take up the slack in the center straps as they stretched.

Shepido wrote:

I was considering the mountaineering version of this (harfang), but you have dissuaded me of trying it. It sounds like it is useful for cragging and then only maybe.  

I think Lisa has something additional causing a problem. Once adjusted and doubled back appropriately, they will stretch initially 1 time and then seem to settle in.

I used the ones you're considering extensively in Chamonix last spring. I have the hybrid ski version as well. The 12 point version was awesome on the more classical alpine routes. Once I got the strap length adjusted and stretch settled, I never had to touch them again. 

Just got the harfang techs and had my first go at them while drytooling. They feel really nice. I was a little worried about blue ice’s semi auto attachment system for technical climbing since it’s more flimsy than others but It performed very well and felt super precise. I already had the normal harfangs that I use for ski mountaineering so by now I know the deal with the Dyneema strap and accept that it’ll loosen up the first couple go’s with it. It came pre-configured as a mono-point and felt great on rock. Even with 3 season mountaineering boots, I didn’t notice any lack of stiffness from the strap vs a steel bar. The points come super sharp. They also pack down super easy, an even better folding system for packing down than the normal harfangs. Like most blue ice products, I’m super impressed. Now I’m just waiting to give em some use on real ice

Greg Steele wrote:

That seems excessive... I have a pair of harfangs (not the techs) and there was some settling, but maybe 0.1" total. Just checking, but you do have the strap doubled back?  Seems you shouldn't need a shorter strap, you could trim any excess. But also any excess should be captured under the boot.

Yeah, Straps double backed and I fit them to the boot per the video (pulled and tightened things up; make sure they snap on).

And not saying don’t buy them, just sharing my experience so far. Hopefully will successfully troubleshoot it because I really like climbing in them.

Lisa K wrote:

Yeah, Straps double backed and I fit them to the boot per the video (pulled and tightened things up; make sure they snap on).

And not saying don’t buy them, just sharing my experience so far. Hopefully will successfully troubleshoot it because I really like climbing in them.

If I could be of assistance in tweaking the fit, let me know. I’m injured right now and have a lot of time to tinker. You could message me and we could do a video call or something to figure out which variable to tweak. 

The straps on both my pairs of Harfangs haven't loosened after the initial readjustment.

My non-final thoughts on the Techs are:

Dry tooling  - awesome 

Steep ice - not awesome, only OK. The secondary points are two small to feel really secure in the mono configuration. Reminded me of how I remember the Lynx in mono (which is not a compliment). 

Mountaineering and steep snow - great, especially in the dual point configuration 

I think these excel for alpine climbing, e.g., mixed and short sections of steep ice, but there are many better crampons for pure, steep ice. They are also great on moderate ice (WI4 and under) with lots of rambling snow sections when configured as dual points. 

I got the Harfang mono point crampons.  (The Harfang version of the BD Snaggletooth.)

They seem to perform pretty well, but they also seem to loosen while climbing.

I adjusted them tight, then re-ajusted them tight again after being on my boots overnight.  

Did some ice climbing on them.  Then re-adjusted and tightened them again.  Then soaked the strap in water, re-adjusted and tightened them again and left them on my boots overnight.

Figured they were done stretching out.  

Ice climbed with them this weekend.  By the end of the day, when I took the crampons off my boots, they had stretched out enough that the heel bale needed hardly any pressure to remove them.  Re-adjusted them tighter again.  

Wondering how much you need to stretch these things out before they stop stretching.  

Are you fully double backing the loop? I accidentally didn’t double back and was confused for a while.

Lucas Ng wrote:

Are you fully double backing the loop? I accidentally didn’t double back and was confused for a while.

Yes.  I'm pretty sure.  The "tail" of the strap is pointing towards the toe.  It seems pretty secure.  I was comfortable enough with it that I was willing to lead ice on them.  Was really surprised at how much they had loosened up.  

Going to use them a bit more and see if they're settling in.  

My only experience is watching them Fall off repeatedly for the party next to me at Willoughby. Secondary points look wimpy.  Happy with my Blue Ice screws.