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Patagonia for the "medium"-core climber?

Original Post
Jake907 · · Anchorage Alaska · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

Considering the state of things in the US, I am not-quite planning, but not exactly daydreaming either, about what I would if I found myself unemployed in the immanent future. 

I know that Patagonia is famous for the alpine big walls and rime mushrooms on Fitzroy and Cerro Torre.  But the smaller formations in the range - are there classic routes that are no harder than say IV 5.8 AI4?  I've browsed pataclimb but there is a lot of info and I'm not sure where to start. I'm not interested in trekking peaks or scrambles but improving drastically at my bigboy granite skillset in the very short term isn't realistic either.

Nic Gravley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

maybe not at 5.8, but if you’re solid at 5.10+/.11- there are options for great climbing in chalten. The main problem is that these “moderate” routes can see entirely too many parties on them during shorter weather windows because they are approachable and short (by chalten standards) 


we climbed brenner-moschioni this year on a 1.5 day weather window and there were probably 8 or 9 parties on route and maybe another 7 on comesana-fonrouge (the two routes join at the top)


all of the accidents up until that point in the season were from climber caused rockfall. So in short, there’s relatively moderate climbing in chalten but with extremely amplified objective hazards unless you get lucky enough to see a 4 or 5 day weather window where people spread out. I personally wouldn’t go back planning to climb any moderate classic routes there and think it’s a good idea to be strong and skilled enough to spread out onto less travelled routes.

That being said, Patagonia is a huge area and if you’re interested in purely rock climbing, Frey and Cochamo are both sick and have approachable climbing. (You should be moving quickly and confidently on 5.10 to enjoy either that much)

Tim N · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 71

^ what Nick said is spot on. Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja De L’S are the two “intro” peaks in the Fitz Massif, and in today’s age are attainable by many competent and experienced 5.10 trad/alpine climbers. Aguja De L’S has two quite moderate routes on it, one of them, Cara Este, really only had one pitch of 5.10, the rest being largely 5.8/5.9.
There are also some “straightforward” routes on El Mocho that are popular during short weather windows.

After those couple options, things ramp up quickly in terms of scale and commitment.

The main thing is to have your kit dialed, be able to devour big approaches with energy to climb the next day(s), and move fast on alpine terrain and pitches up to 5.10+/11-. Pull on gear if need be - lean into that French free ethic :). The climbing movement is straightforward in Chalten, it’s not “tricky” climbing, but the routefinding, approaches, descents, and weather definitely are!

If you find yourself with time on your hands Dec-Feb, I’d definitely recommend the Patagonia climbing pilgrimage: Cochamo -> Frey -> Chalten

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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