Stoney Point Wet Rock Warning

2-19-2025

I stopped by SP yesterday…. Hardly any climbers- Good thing.

Is only been about 4 days of cold sunshine. Not nearly long enough. The mud is right under the surface, some water is still seeping through cracks.

Did you know Bon Scott died 45 years ago today? And so did AC/DC, although a couver band by the same name still exists.

So please don’t climb, give it a few more days.

Saturday might be OK. 

Oh yeah, does anyone know of a “sport climb” getting established on the main wall, just to the right of the center chimney??? I watched some climbers hanging and swinging around. They were pounding, with hammers, but not drilling bolts. ?????  

i was up the 2 four days ago. road was plowed to kratka. the gps i pointed to is just below 6,000 feet and gets tons of sun. its the perfect bouldering spot if stoney has rain and you dont wanna hike to horse flats. imo, the best time to climb there is when there is a few inches of snow on the ground. the boulders dont hold the snow unless there is a ton and there rarely is. it's so pretty to boulder out there with snow on the ground.

Socal choss….  

We are so lucky to live here. Sunny, warm climbing everywhere. Lots of great and knot so great places to climb at 335 days per year.
So is it to much to ask people to avoid SP when it’s dripping wet?
I don’t think so.

I have been climbing at SP for 52 years now!!! 

Personally I find that unbelievable and if you told me when I started, at 20 years old, I would be a old man dragging my ass around, still getting excited about the prospect of new climbs, new problems, new friends and more adventures in my life. I would have told you… no way.

Geologic time is incomprehensible they say. But I have witnessed significant changes at SP. Big chunks of climbs and boulder problems have changed. The ground has eroded down so much, in spots, that you can no longer grab the starting holds anymore. When the homes were built on the south side, the drainage changed significantly, and pretty soon “Turlock” will probably tip over.

I don’t know what the future holds for SP but I know that climbers will keep coming out and testing thier skills on our little rocks as preparation for the big stuff.

I just felt like ranting some.

Everyone enjoy the climbing. 

2-24-2025

it’s good to go. Sun is out, for now.

Another much need storm is on the way!

Guy Keeseewrote:

2-24-2025

it’s good to go. Sun is out, for now.

Another much need storm is on the way!

Just met some super helpful and kind locals when I did a drive-by of the place today. What a nice, local gem with history you guys have. 

I suspect some of the undercling holds may be saturated?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/200523973 

Chris Owenwrote:

I suspect some of the undercling holds may be saturated?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/200523973 

Yes… you are correct. So Chris what to do?

Just as soon as the rain stops, people come out. 

I try to talk and reason with them- people who climb on wet sandstone seem to be 90% ignorant of the fact that when it’s wet it is just like mud.
Some are really smart- one fellow made plans on how to deal with the muddy ground. He brought a blue tarp to keep his pads clean. No that’s thinking.

@Frank Stein  Glad you enjoyed our little slice of heaven. Come on back. 

SoCal Chosswrote:

34°20'39.8"N 117°58'16.5"W park here, granite boulders north.

I went here last weekend. Found about 5 really good looking boulders and a bunch more little one move problems, all below the ridge line. I wandered all around the ridge and found a couple more builders, but way lower density.

Here's the best problem I found (maybe v2 with scary topout):

slurple brainwrote:

I went here last weekend. Found about 5 really good looking boulders and a bunch more little one move problems, all below the ridge line. I wandered all around the ridge and found a couple more builders, but way lower density.

Here's the best problem I found (maybe v2 with scary topout):

there are 80 or 90 something established problems up there. a few rope lines too. please dont add on MP, let everybody discover it on their own. the boulder near this boulder has a lot of great problems on it! 

the arete to the left of this "v2" face is also a problem. v4? scaryish landing.

SoCal Chosswrote:

there are 80 or 90 something established problems up there. a few rope lines too. please dont add on MP, let everybody discover it on their own. the boulder near this boulder has a lot of great problems on it! 

the arete to the left of this "v2" face is also a problem. v4? scaryish landing.

I have no intention of adding these to MP, don't worry.

There was one boulder about 200-300 ft NW of the one in the pic that had clearly been done but I could barely get established on.
It's a near-vert slab face with what looks like two lines; one up an arete on the right and one straight up. There's a burned log and a large, chalked up boulder next to it.
Any idea what those lines go at? If you have no idea what I'm talking about then I'll take a picture next time I'm up there.

3-5-25

Raining cats n dogs in Chatsworth today.

And I suspect the conditions up the 2 are not any better.

Was at Stoney yesterday- it was dry. A bunch of youths were TRing on the Jesus Wall and others were doing the bolt ladder.

At the end of the day they were whooping n howling because they were pretty happy….

It’s been a long time since anyone has done that.

I felt the stoke all the way down at B1…. 

3-15-25

I was gone- racing- for 4 days.

I have reports that it was raining on and off the entire time.

So yes, it’s wet everywhere.

I stopped in Tuesday just to enjoy a beer and a smoke on my way home, it was opening day after all.
Was sort of disappointed to see “a pad person” walking towards the back….. the ground was muddy as heck!

Some people are clueless morons.

Sun is out now… a week of this should fix the stone.

Stay tuned for updates 

Later 

3-22-25

It’s been hot n sunny- so it’s climbable.

Have at it.

Pull carefully 

Going to SP later today… 

I don’t know if it rained Wednesday- Moorpark was in thick fog and light drizzle (I used my wipers in the car) but I don’t know what it was like in the Valley.

My Chatsworth connection is off gold mining.

So if you go please do the “dirt test” before climbing.

3-28-25

I got to SP about 4 yesterday… it promptly started raining! Very light but things started dripping… 

The sun is out now.

Please respect the stone, maybe give it a few days.

The desert will be nice 

3-30-25.      Sunday 

it started raining last night… sort of heavy.

Stoney is closed… for now.

Going to the desert today 

Later all 

Thanks Guy - it was me. It always rains when I plan to do something and I was planning to finally get out there today. Not to be.

Chris Owenwrote:

Thanks Guy - it was me. It always rains when I plan to do something and I was planning to finally get out there today. Not to be.

Give it time, Chris. The sun is out now… gets pretty fierce this time of year.
Look for updates 

I retire on Thursday - I'll be out there every week until I move up to Big Bear in June!

Chris Owenwrote:

I retire on Thursday - I'll be out there every week until I move up to Big Bear in June!

Congratulations….
Hope to see more of you- Tuesday and Thursday- are the days.

4-2-25…. It’s been raining, sun is out now but it’s not close to “dry” …. More rain in the forecast. Stay tuned in for updates.