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Best Spain crags for moderates
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I know it’s a pretty broad request. We will be in Spain April and most of May. Looking for the “don’t miss” crags for 5.8-5.10 climbing. Sport, Trad, multi or single pitch. |
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Spain is a big place. Where were you going to be? |
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Maybe El Chorro. |
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El Chorro would be awesome… but could be getting warm? (Richard, what say you?) Montserrat, near Barcelona, would have options. And that’s not a bad time of year for multipitch up high in the Gorros area of Montserrat (see Via de Carles on MP, for example). Sometimes there are spring rains or finicky weather, so check the forecast. |
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El chorro should be fine until mid-May but varies by the year-sometimes warm in early May, some years climbable into early June. def great for single pitch in your range and also multi. not a lot of trad |
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Plenty to do at Margalef in that range. |
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Piggybacking off of this. I’m planning a trip to the Catalonia region the second week of May. Looking at Montserrat, Montsant, Siurana, and Margalef as options, and will probably spend a couple days in each zone. I generally can climb mid-11 sport if it’s in a slabby or vertical style, and maybe low 11 high 10 if it’s steeper. Would love to get on some longer multipitch routes as well. We'll have a car and can travel around pretty easily. Any recommendations? |
Luke Steiner wrote: Not sure exactly what you are looking for in terms of recommendations--specific routes or which areas? First, not much multi-pitch in the areas that you listed, except parts of Montserrat--though the multis there tend to be quite run-out and 'spooky' --given the rock quality and style of climbing. Very little slabby at the places you listed, though plenty of vertical and lots in your grade range in all of them. I will mention that Siurana is just one crag ( or group of crags) in the Sierra des Prades--with numerous other very nearby crags ( including La Mussara, Arboli, Mont Ral ) also providing excellent climbing. Montsant is just on the other side of the valley from Siurana, with Margalef a bit deeper into that range, while Montserrat is about 2 hours away in the opposite direction---so all areas are in quite close proximity to each other. It is a gorgeous area with climbing to match. |
  Peladet Wall (Terradets) .......................... Terradets for multi-pitch. Let's start promoting many other crags rather than Siurana/Margalef/Chorro. Plenty of routes: |
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You could also drop by, if time isn't a constraint, in Picos de Europa. There is a lot going on in that area but here's a selection of multi-pitch trad routes: https://www.picosavista.com/croquis/ |
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I got some good advice in this thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/127042621/looking-for-kid-friendly-shady-sport-climbing-between-malaga-and-barcelona#ForumMessage-127153018 I would totally spend a week in Sella. Maybe a month. |
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For superb trad climbing 6-9 pitches of granite in central Spain Los Galayos (sierra de Gredos). 2h drive from the capital city of Madrid.
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More trad, this time in the Pyrenees (central, Aragon). Ordesa Valley. Exposed and committing. Limestone. The background is spectacular with lots of wildlife and edelweiss flowers in the higher parts of the crag. https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/08/14/tozal-del-mallo-ordesa-las-brujas-franco-espagnol/ https://www.scribd.com/document/257399723/escalada-en-Ordesa-pdf (in Spanish sorry).
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