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Nightcrawler P3 reachy crux

Original Post
Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 188

I've read that the crux move (at the start of P3) on Nightcrawler is reachy, and being 5'4", it might feel even harder. I'm unsure whether this move is protected by a bolt and, if so, whether it can be aided—specifically, whether a shorter climber could clip the bolt before committing to the move. I've encountered bolt ladders in Yosemite where I couldn't reach the first bolt, so I'm wondering if I should wait to climb this with a taller partner.

Taylor Fahey · · Blue Diamond, NV · Joined May 2018 · Points: 324

Reach is not a problem if you use the right beta (essential right foot smear on varnished slab). You get a bolt above you for this crux so easy to pull through it if you had to.

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 674

There are 2 bolts 3' apart at the crux. One just before (standing on a ledge) and one just after. You can easily pull through.

Random GoPro video:
https://youtu.be/F-DMLgWubR0?t=1986

"Reach is not a problem" is definitely not true.

Random Climber · · Front Range · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 4

For what it’s worth, I climbed it with someone who’s 5’1” and they had no problem with it and didn’t do the big move at all. I’ve also had multiple friends shorter than 5’4” send as well. But yes, tightly bolted and it’s easy to pull through as well.

Heather U · · Redmond, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Estherrrrrrrrrrr. Hi. I had to pull through this move but I think I missed a crucial shortie person foot or something. Very aidable move on an old bolt. Heads up I wish I had brought either an 80 or a tag/two ropes for the last rappel specifically. Maybe I’m just getting soft with sketchy downclimbs. This route rekindled my love of RR climbing, have fun!! Also let’s climb again sooooon!

Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 188
Austin Donisan wrote:

There are 2 bolts 3' apart at the crux. One just before (standing on a ledge) and one just after. You can easily pull through.

Random GoPro video:
https://youtu.be/F-DMLgWubR0?t=1986

"Reach is not a problem" is definitely not true.

Thanks! I was looking for a video like this. I found one of P2/4 only but not P3.

Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 188
Heather U wrote:

Estherrrrrrrrrrr. Hi. I had to pull through this move but I think I missed a crucial shortie person foot or something. Very aidable move on an old bolt. Heads up I wish I had brought either an 80 or a tag/two ropes for the last rappel specifically. Maybe I’m just getting soft with sketchy downclimbs. This route rekindled my love of RR climbing, have fun!! Also let’s climb again sooooon!

Heatherrrrrrrrrrr. Haha got it, aidable, but potentially still free-able. Bring a tag line, second rope or slings for reepschnur off P1. Come to the desert.

Esther P · · Mostly CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 188

Nightcrawler is amazing!! Crux is definitely doable for shorter folks—just needed a couple extra stem moves, but it wasn’t as tough as I expected. My partner, who has a 5'10" reach, pulled through. Appreciate the beta, everyone!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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