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Biner recommendations

Original Post
RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Last few days out I've been climbing in wet conditions and my draws got frozen over and it was difficult to open the gates on the biners.

I have petzl spirit draws

Do all brands have these issues , what do you recommend of some don't?

Thanks

Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2

Generally wire gates are less prone to freezing and also easier to break open after freezing over. There's less surface area for ice to form. I use Dyons but any wire gates will function better in wet ice conditions.

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Jake woo wrote:

Generally wire gates are less prone to freezing and also easier to break open after freezing over. There's less surface area for ice to form. I use Dyons but any wire gates will function better in wet ice conditions.

Thanks what do you think of the petzl ange?

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

I personally only use the dyon and ange almost exclusively 


the ange is an absolute great wire gate that I’ve had solidly frozen-a couple light taps and it functioned great.  Prob not as good as the Dyon though 

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

Camp Dyons are the solution. 

Adam Stone · · New Franklin, OH · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 10

I prefer the Camp Photon wire gates for almost everything.  

Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2
RWPT wrote:

Thanks what do you think of the petzl ange?

I haven't really used the Ange too much to have an informed opinion. I'd say get the large size at least for ice. Just easier to use with gloves and easier to break the ice when frozen over.

Tyson Younger · · Ouray, CO · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

I love the ange I configure it ange s for bolt or screw side ange L for rope side. Light, never had a freeze . I'm in Colorado so not too cold though.

Mitch L · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Another vote for Camp Photon wire, inexpensive, light, and good size for use with gloves

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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