Approach skis for ice climbing - alaska

I really wanted a pair of back country XC skis. I do most my climbing in the Midwest, Ontario, and Quebec. I purchased second hand the a pair of Karhu waxless skis. 85/70/80 with metal edges. Length 190. They have lightweight voile telemark bindings on them (see pic).  For around the house, they work perfect and I wear a XC boot with a duck bill. I’d use them regionally for my purpose but never need to bc usually snowshoeing is preferred.

my question is, would I be able to use these skis for the classic ice climb approaches in Alaska like ham and eggs, & shaken not stirred? When I purchased these skis , I just went off a BC profile with metal edges and didn’t know anything about the dated resurgence of telemark skis in the 90s when these would have been popular.

Specific questions:
-if I can use the skis, will I still need to buy full length skins?

-will the slope steepness be ok with the telemark bindings for any descents? I’m not a skier and would not be going to ski. I’ve never tried downhill skiing with them and doubt I know how to telemark. If ok, I think having 2 pairs of boots would be a PIA. They make this adapter called 3 pin Nordic Step that would allow use of mountaineering boots and supposedly people use these in PNW for climbing approaches. While I’m sure there is some trade offs, I’m pretty sure the Nordic step weighs less then Silvretta bindings for what that’s worth.

-use current skis but put Silvretta bindings on them. (I don’t how to downhill ski either XD)

Let me know if you have any insights and while I prefer to use the gear I have.. if it’s just not going to work, just let me know.

Those routes on the Mooses Tooth are accessed from the Root Canal glacier. If those are your only objectives, TAT can fly you right there, in which case there is virtually no approach as you are camped right at the base. If you camp somewhere down on the Ruth glacier, skis are useful to get to the base of the approach ramp but you will stash them there as the ramp is too steep to ski and requires easy snow climbing. 

That 3-pin nordic step device looks like it depends on flex in the footwear to really work. It might be worth a try, but I wouldn't be surprised if rigid climbing boots rendered them almost unusable. 

Lothian is correct,  those bindings are for Nordic, or "telemark " boots and won't function for shit walking with stiff soled mountaineering boots. A reasonable set up though for winter touring in moderate hilly terrain in the upper midwest when paired with a boot like say the Alico double boot.

@eric, yea the merrell full leather boots I have looks quite similar to when I google Alico.

@lothian/eric,  would that be the same story with the Silvretta bindings and mountaineering boots? Or would these  particular skis be ok to mount silvrettas on? The skis themselves have traditional camber so not sure if that matters

It sounds like skins aren’t needed for the 2 locations I mentioned. But I would be trying to future proof in general.  Other classics such as mini moon flower. What would be some Alaskan climbs where skins would be needed?

The silvretta bindings are (relatively) popular for skiing in climbing boots. I've never used them.  

I have never been to Alaska, but I am very experienced with skis,  especially touring outfits. You could mount pretty much any kind of binding on those skis. I believe they would work ok for basic approaches. Those waxless patterns work ok most of the time on moderate terrain. But sometimes skins will be significantly better even on fairly gentle terrain. It is kinda hard to advise someone about skis who doesn't have much experience. Maybe the best advice, from my perspective, is for you to get out touring. It's great exercise/conditioning,  and the better you get at it, the better the skis will be at saving your energy for the climb. Might be worth including some downhill practice, starting with a lesson on beginner runs at a resort. The Merrell boots,  if they fit you,  should be fine. Start with what you have. 

 They make this adapter called 3 pin Nordic Step that would allow use of mountaineering boots and supposedly people use these in PNW for climbing approaches.

If you try this out, or speak to someone who uses these 1st hand with success in rigid soled climbing boots, I'd like to hear about it. 

Eddy Rickettsonwrote:

They make this adapter called 3 pin Nordic Step that would allow use of mountaineering boots and supposedly people use these in PNW for climbing approaches.

I do not believe this is common.  I don't think I have ever seen this, but I have seen hundreds of people using AT skis.  There are rare/unique cases where an XC setup could be used, but that is the exception and not the rule.  Prepare to have a setup that only works for very limited scenarios if you go this route, especially as a non-skier.

What would be some Alaskan climbs where skins would be needed?

The Alaska range is a really big place.  Lots of people use AT skis to get around on Denali, the Kahiltna, and the Ruth, but usage of XC skis by people without skiing experience is going to be much more limiting.  Anywhere steep enough to require climbing skins is likely going to be terrifying to descend on XC skis with mountaineering boots by anyone who is not already an expert skier.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

  Anywhere steep enough to require climbing skins is likely going to be terrifying to descend on XC skis with mountaineering boots by anyone who is not already an expert skier.

Thank you so much for help clarifying the boundaries a bit.  Angle = no skins needed = XC ski is ok, binding/boot problem up to user.   Angle = skins required, AT skis will most likely needed/ Silvretta ok at least to a certain point.  

Flexwrote:

Those routes on the Mooses Tooth are accessed from the Root Canal glacier. If those are your only objectives, TAT can fly you right there, in which case there is virtually no approach as you are camped right at the base. If you camp somewhere down on the Ruth glacier, skis are useful to get to the base of the approach ramp but you will stash them there as the ramp is too steep to ski and requires easy snow climbing. 

Flex has it right for the Root Canal. You can march your way to the routes if needed. We did skin to Shaken, downhill from base camp. Our setup is a split board with mountaineering boots (me - its clunky, but doable) and silvrettas. 

Same setups were used on past trips to KIA. I personally would want skins on the first hill out of camp getting to the Mini. Downhill is / was a gong show. To your point, I'm too lazy or uninterested to bring 2 different boots. No harm in taking it slow.