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Ecuador Rock Climbing

Original Post
Teddy Dondanville · · Albany · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Hey, planning a honeymoon trip to Ecuador for some rock and surf.

Will go cragging around Quito and then spend some time outside Cuenca. 

I'd happily accept a spray down for zones like Sigsipampa, Cuyuja, Santa Clara, and Cojitambo. 

Zone-specific climbing beta is nice, but also any pro tips, dos and /don'ts, local climbing contacts etc. 

Happy to message here, but email is probably best. 

Twdondanville@gmail.com 

Chévere, gracias. 

Teddy Dondanville · · Albany · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Bumping for any and all info about rock in Ecuador. Thanks. 

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

My wife & I did a 2 week trip in July 2021.  Did a couple multi-pitch routes at Cojitambo.  Nice climbing but with an active quarrying operation at the base (clanking noise all day).  Wanted to do something around Simiatug but got hit with some shitty weather.  We hired the author of the Ecuador climbing guidebook (Felipe Proano, cool guy w. some good stories) to help with the logistics which is really only needed for Simiatug (sensitive issues w. locals).  The highlight was a 4 day trip to the Galapagos - highly recommended!  If you want some more pics & BS, here's our blog: chossclimbers.com

a Ball · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

I traveled to Ecuador in June 2022. Our focus was the Galapagos and we didn't rock climb at all, so I only have limited beta for you.

In Quito, we did climb Rucu Pichincha, which was a pretty easy ~ half-day outing. It is a cool hike and an easy way to get up to almost 16k feet. Easily accessed via taxi to the cable car, then cable car to about 13k. Well-worn hiking trail and then scrambling to the summit. On the way down, we stopped at the little hut near the trail (you will see it) and had lunch. Recommended. Just down the hill from the lunch hut (to the north IIRC) is a climber's trail (steep, mossy) down to the Zona Politecnica crag (listed on MP). The climbing looked well-bolted and decent. Very cool atmosphere. You could easily do Rucu Pichinicha in the morning, then have lunch, then crag in the afternoon (or vice versa). Just beware of storms and make sure you don't miss the cable car down.

If I were to go back for rock climbing, I would 100% aim for Columns de Tangan--that place looks amazing!

Like RPC, I'd also highly recommend making the trip to the Galapagos, even if that's not in your current itinerary. We went for about a week and stayed on San Cristobal (where the airport is). By staying in one place, we got to do the common wildlife stuff, but also surfed several times. The surfing wasn't world class, but it was an absolutely awesome experience to surf with sea turtles and have seals playing with/tugging on your leash between sets. Maybe you can get all that surfing the mainland, but I'm not sure. If you want more beta on surfing on San Cristobal, PM me. (You can surf on other islands, too, but I think those other islands generally have more red tape to deal with when it comes to surfing.)

Have fun!

Teddy Dondanville · · Albany · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks, everyone! That's helpful. 

Mitch D · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 96

Hey Teddy,

I spent a month there last summer. Shoot me a PM and I can give you some beta.

MD

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 3,608

Worth spending some time in Banos climbing at the many crags there. Sigsipampa is awesome climbing and the best is La Chorrera crag on the flanks of Chimborazo, furthest point from the center of the earth!

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

I plan to be in Ecuador for most of February and into early March.  I have a group hiking trip going Feb. 11 to 25, but will be looking for partners before / after that.  The trip is based out of Cuenca, but I am open to climbing pretty well anywhere in the country.  Have done the mountaineering thing there in the past, looking to focus on rock climbing on this trip.

Also looking for current contact info for Cojitambo, specifically Juan Gabriel Carrasco (all I have is a telephone number - an email address would be handy).

Also would appreciate any contact info / suggestions for any climbing hot spots.  I lead mid 10's sport, 5.9 trad, follow harder.  Have all the gear, what I bring will depend on what opportunities I can drum up.

And yes, I'm a old guy, but it hasn't slowed me down much yet.

Teddy Dondanville · · Albany · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Hi Mike. I won't be there during that time, but I hope you enjoy! When I'm home from my trip, and if I remember, I can share Info that I learn. 

Feel free to reach out to me via email. Twdondanville@gmail.com 

In terms of contact info, I've been using Whatsapp with Juan Gabriel and he's been super responsive. I would reccomend downloading Whatsapp. I don't have his email. 

Good luck!

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

Bump.  I will be Cojitambo Feb. 8 to 11, then available to climb anywhere in Ecuador Feb. 24 to March 7.  Looking at areas such as San Juan, Paute, Banos, Columnas de Tengan, Torres de Simiatug.  Have the guidebooks and can bring any gear necessary.  If you are interested in getting  together for any of this, let me know!

Teddy Dondanville · · Albany · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Hey All.

I wrote a couple of stories about my time in Cojitambo and Tangán. It would be cool if you checked them out!

Cojitambo

Tangán

I also wrote an article about the two areas for Flashpumped.com. However, the article hasn't been published yet. I will circle back here when it is. 

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

Great articles, Teddy!

I will be in Cojitambo Feb. 8 to 11, looking for partners.  I will be staying at Kantuta, Cesar Campoverde's place, so if you are in the area and looking for a partner, hit me up!

Lotte Haan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2025 · Points: 0

Hey all!

Planning on a long holiday to, amongst other countries, Ecuador! Im looking for best climbing communities and (social media)groups to find climbing partners whilst there. 

Every tip is welcome :) thank you In advance :)

Mitch D · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 96
Teddy Dondanville wrote:

Hey All.

I wrote a couple of stories about my time in Cojitambo and Tangán. It would be cool if you checked them out!

Cojitambo

Tangán

I also wrote an article about the two areas for Flashpumped.com. However, the article hasn't been published yet. I will circle back here when it is. 

Teddy! You hit the jackpot! I am so glad it all worked out! I did not get to visit Tangan as I was there during political turmoil. I really want to make it back. Maybe 2025 or 2026, latest?

Stoked for yall! 

-MD

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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