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toddler friendly crags south and east of Bethel, ME?

Original Post
Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,055

Hello, so I am planning a family outing from Winthrop, ME this weekend. I have a 3 year old with me. Is there any crags the one would recommend? After doing a bit of research I am thinking Twitchell Pond, Shagg or Bear Mountain. There is little information on trad/sport routes on Bear Mountain and Twitchell. Could someone help and provide some more info on those two? It'll be several adults to babysit so 2-3 pitch climbs would be fine and hopefully there could be something slabby/juggy to set up something for the little one (she'll climb like 10-15 feet and quit, so it doesn't have to be a real route). Thanks!

roddack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 70

Probably splitting hairs, but most likely driving time from Winthrop to Camden will be less than the three places you mentioned. Camden is also far more family friendly and has a variety of climbs suitable for children and adults alike with pretty light approaches.

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

I was just at Shagg recently (without my son) - it's a reasonable crag for a kid to hang out at, but the approach hike is going to be painful (for you) and there's nothing there that a short toddler is going to be able to climb. There's only a couple moderates there, nothing below 5.8, and the 5.8s aren't exactly jug hauls (relative to the grade). The approach hike is long (30+ min) and steep and you're not going to enjoy carrying a kid up/down.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Quite a bit about twitchell in gerry's book,,casual approach.

DGoguen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

Tumbledown Dick in Gilead near Bethel.
Right off the road. Super climbing and a few short walls for the kids.
Handrens guide.

Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,055

Thanks guys. I have the Handren book and took a look but don't know if there are any updates on Twitchell Pond. How about Buck's Ledge? Look like it's right off the road and huge.

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
DGoguen wrote:Tumbledown Dick in Gilead near Bethel. Right off the road. Super climbing and a few short walls for the kids. Handrens guide.
definitely, though a little west of where you were looking. Always seems to be a little more quiet than everywhere else.
Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT , Bisbee, AZ · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 414

I vote tumbledown.

Arne Klepinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2025 · Points: 50

Hello, I spent a lot of time in 80's on Buck's, Hawk and Bear. This reply is about Buck's and Handren's description of Grand Traverse, which I put up with several friends. It is not a sport climb, with some bolts, pitons, cams, and nuts all on the lead. What is missing in his book is the "end of the route". We never rapped off the single bolt mentioned. It continues farther along the sloped ledge below the white wall, all the way to a two piton belay/rap point. Then it steps down below a nest, and right, then up to a very steep series of steps to the top (40'). This is the crux about 5.9 +. We would usually walk down because the piton anchor is difficult due to the overhangs. I think this a fun adventure at a moderate grade. 

Arne Klepinger aka Arnie Klipinger in the book

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,345
Arne Klepinger wrote:

Hello, I spent a lot of time in 80's on Buck's, Hawk and Bear. This reply is about Buck's and Handren's description of Grand Traverse, which I put up with several friends. It is not a sport climb, with some bolts, pitons, cams, and nuts all on the lead. What is missing in his book is the "end of the route". We never rapped off the single bolt mentioned. It continues farther along the sloped ledge below the white wall, all the way to a two piton belay/rap point. Then it steps down below a nest, and right, then up to a very steep series of steps to the top (40'). This is the crux about 5.9 +. We would usually walk down because the piton anchor is difficult due to the overhangs. I think this a fun adventure at a moderate grade. 

Arne Klepinger aka Arnie Klipinger in the book

Great info, Arne—thank you! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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