Best shell for ice climbing?

Thin insulated shell that won't ride up out of my harness? Anyone had any luck finding one? I'm pretty average climber guy size, like 5.10 / 155 lbs... 

m10 anorak

Shells you really gotta try on in person if you want a good fit for ice/alpine. The really critical aspect is how the shoulders fit, so something that works well for someone else might ride up or constrain movement for you, and even nominally stretch shell fabrics aren’t stretchy enough to compensate for a cut that doesn’t fit your body.

Arc'teryx Gamma MX (hooded).

Rab, Muztogh, light and durable

Bdot Bdot wrote:

m10 anorak

As a skinny climber (6'1" 160lbs) I find this piece to be really small in my regular Patagonia size (medium) and would suggest trying it on before buying. Although it fits well when it's on, it's hard to get on, especially since it's an anorak so you have to pull it over your head. It fits fine with a base layer, R1, and atom LT under it still, but I think a large would fit perfect.

I can't recommend it enough as far as material and construction though. It's almost easier to put my hands in the air than by my side and it is very well built.

Cedric Salvador wrote:

As a skinny climber (6'1" 160lbs) I find this piece to be really small in my regular Patagonia size (medium) and would suggest trying it on before buying. Although it fits well when it's on, it's hard to get on, especially since it's an anorak so you have to pull it over your head. It fits fine with a base layer, R1, and atom LT under it still, but I think a large would fit perfect.

I can't recommend it enough as far as material and construction though. It's almost easier to put my hands in the air than by my side and it is very well built.

As another skinnyish climber (6'1 165lbs) i have the full zip m10 in a large and love it. Freedom of movement is unmatched without it feeling way to oversized.

Thanks All! The full zip M10 looks pretty sweet. 

The arc one sounds like the older model was well loved but folks nowadays are finding the fit to be less good? 

Ira OMC wrote:

Thanks All! The full zip M10 looks pretty sweet. 

The arc one sounds like the older model was well loved but folks nowadays are finding the fit to be less good? 

The Gamma MX is not a hardshell. It is an absolutely killer ice climbing softshell, and mine (still going strong after nearly 20 years) gets way more use on ice than my hardshell. But if you're looking for a true hardshell for wet climbs (and there are times they're needed) the M10 is great. Arc and Mammut and plenty of others also have good hardshells. If you're buying a hardshell, skip anything with insulation. That's what layering is for and you'll regret having it the first time you're climbing hard wet ice on a warm day.

Finally, get what fits and don't be sucker for features you don't need. In other words, don't be that dude at Ouray who dropped a grand on an Alpha SV.

Mike Larson wrote:

Finally, get what fits and don't be sucker for features you don't need. In other words, don't be that dude at Ouray who dropped a grand on an Alpha SV.

Ordered the M10 for 50 percent off... Let's hope it works. 

I'm not new to climbing, just new to getting nice clothes that aren't held together with duct tape :) 

It's discontinued now but I absolutely love my Mammut Nordwand HS Flex. Stretch Goretex panels in the armpits and long cut sleeves make it great for climbing or anything else that involves reaching over your head.

I’ve used the Patagonia shells a bunch for work - the Super Free Alpine is pretty great for winter climbing, if you’re looking for something more burly than the M10 series.

However, I’m a big fan of Rab shells more generally for winter climbing. In particular as a burlier shell for alpiney conditions that can hold up to sustained winter use, the Latok series of jackets are great. I use the Latok Alpine shell, which I don’t think is available any more, but the Latok Mountain and Latok Extreme would both fit in with what you’re describing.  https://vidmate.onl/    

m10 anorak