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Ice climbing vs rock climbing

Deven Lewis · · Idaho falls · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 275
Ira OMC wrote:

To clarify about the " lead head" concept...My perspective is different from Devon's, and it has nothing to do with falling. The opposite, in face... 

It's pretty common, for most people who climb a lot of ice, I think, to run it out. Most of the time. Even on a 5, I might place a screw every 15-20 feet? I don't think that is uncommon if the ice is good. Mentally, I can look down , see that screw a ways down , and tell myself I'm solid, I can make another move to that good stance, settle into it, kick in deep... while staying calm. Where as before I started climbing ice, I'd look at a cam by my ankles and my brain would just start sending alarms, even if I was holding a jug or perfect jam or whatever. So, to clarify, I've gotten better at staying calm , trusting my climbing ability to not fall when I shouldn't, and not freaking out when run out. 

 And then after a couple whips in the spring on some sport route I'm usually like ",yay, I've got no spikes all over, I can fall and be fine" and then I feel good about falling, after having it been 100 percent out of the question all winter. 

My argument is more that the lead head doesn’t carry over. I spent last summer and fall doing a lot of rock climbing and felt solid climbing above my gear doing challenging moves. And then spent the winter focused on ice and did primarily ice routes for about two months and the feeling of being solid stayed with me however the lack of me from not falling during that time made me have to refocus my confidence in doing hard moves above gear in spring. My argument is more rock climb leading carry over better then ice leading. 

That’s why I balance doing both in the winter now.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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