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Looking for Early/Mid 1990s Magazine Article on the Development of the Tuolumne and Yosemite Climbing Ethic and Style

Original Post
Lovegasoline Love · · Gasoline · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

The article was either in Climbing Magazine (or possibly Rock & Ice) and published maybe between 1992 - 1997 (possibly later)? It may have been published in multiple parts over more than one month and it dove into the historic roots and origins of Sierra Nevada rock climbing and it's subsequent lineage: the ethic, bold style, ground up, onsight, protection on lead often run out, and free soloing. IIRC there was a great examination of the demands of Toulumne slab climbing informing the DNA of subsequent generations climbing ethics and style. 

I can't recall the name of the article or the author. Any well read historians and/or Sierra Nevada aficionados with a good memory that knows what article and author fits this description?

I have all my climbing mags in DEEP storage and am reluctant to dig them out try to locate the writing. 

Thanks a bunch for any stabs at it ...

fossil · · Terrebonne OR · Joined May 2015 · Points: 126

https://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php/style-commentaries/16-climbing-ethics

Maybe not exactly what you were after, but it covers the early Tuolumne ethic. 

Lovegasoline Love · · Gasoline · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
fossilwrote:

https://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php/style-commentaries/16-climbing-ethics

Maybe not exactly what you were after, but it covers the early Tuolumne ethic. 

HI Fossil,

Some months back - when for some unknown reason the article read long ago emerged into consciousness - I thought it might have been authored by Higgins so searched out his website and proceeded to read everything on it. It's all fantastic stuff (along with his Supertopo contributions) however the article I read was something different. It was a more comprehensive overall history of the ethics, styles, and climbers over successive generations/eras along with the challenges, discipline, reasoning, and justifications that shaped the continuity of 'trad' climbing.

Jabroni McChufferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0
Lovegasoline Lovewrote:

HI Fossil,

Some months back - when for some unknown reason the article read long ago emerged into consciousness - I thought it might have been authored by Higgins so searched out his website and proceeded to read everything on it. It's all fantastic stuff (along with his Supertopo contributions) however the article I read was something different. It was a more comprehensive overall history of the ethics, styles, and climbers over successive generations/eras along with the challenges, discipline, reasoning, and justifications that shaped the continuity of 'trad' climbing.

The first edition guide book that Reid put out had this forward that I do believe was written by Higgins.. or was in Kamps? The guide book also documented the style of an FA 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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