Out of climbing (trad, alpine, ice) for 15 years - what has changed in terms of gear?

Getting back into it and need to re-stock. I'm finally not a broke grad student, which is also nice. But there are too many things I need -- too many to make it viable to geek out on every item. I sort of remember where things stood circa 2010, but I'm curious where I should be focused on changing things or where spending time doing a bunch of research would be worthwhile. I'm mainly interested in waterfall ice, easy alpine climbing, and long, easy trad routes.

• Boots - I remember lusting after new ice  / alpine boots, and I'm sure there have been big advances over my Sportiva K4S
• Tools - I have Quarks, not super inclined to change until I know how much I'll be climbing and whether I get serious again
• Crampons - I have BD Cyborgs.  What's the deal here for waterfall ice?  Have things changed much?
• Ropes - I tended to use twin ropes, as thin as possible (<8mm), dry-treated.  Guessing basics of twin/half/single + tag line debates haven't changed.
• Stoves - always used an MSR pocket rocket or Jetboil, but I think this depends too much on specific objectives (altitude, cold, gas availability) so maybe not helpful to discuss
• Clothes, technical outerwear - I never invested in this, no idea what standards were even 15 years ago.
• Packs - super-light sack-style packs were the rage, anything new?

I still have my old trad and ice rack, so I probably won't change anything there.  

Not a very focused set of questions, just wondering what the big changes have been that would be worth knowing about / factoring in.  Thanks!

Some ice gear changes off the top of my head (excluding tools since you say you like your Quarks):

* Boa lacing systems

* Ultralight Screws from e.g. Petzl and Black Diamond (sometimes they refuse to go in though!)

* Blue Ice Screws are almost a new category (IMO) 

* Blue Ice "mission light" slings are very supple and slippery; easy to tie and untie.

* Light, packable, comfortable harnesses from all the usual suspects (and Blue Ice)

Some techniques that are not necessarily "new" but have gotten more popular in the past 15yrs or so:

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/try-a-girth-hitch-at-the-master-point

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/belaying-the-leader-with-a-fixed-point-belay

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/double-loop-bowline-for-a-rappel-tether

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-benefits-of-the-pre-rigged-rappel

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-extended-rappel-explained

For trad protection Totems are really the newest thing going, they use a "direct cam loading" system and they are excellent. All the usual companies have come out with narrower-headed cams in #0.75 and smaller. For BD that is Z4, Zero Friends for Wild Country, and Dragonflies for DMM - all of these are lighter, more flexible, and smaller than C4's, Friends, or Dragons. Other than in sandstone (or other soft rock) these are a nice upgrade. They essentially invalidate UL C4's (which came out in ~2015) in those sizes.

Your rack will still work great, but if you've got some money burning a hole in your pocket the newer gear is better. I roll with one full set of Totems, one set of Z4's, and then C4's (and UL C4's) in sizes #1 and larger. Pretty hard to beat that setup. In 2019 BD updated C4's to make them lighter and now UL C4's are only really worth the expense and lower durability in sizes #1 and #4 (in #2 and #3 the new C4's are only 14g heavier each and significantly more durable)

As stated above, Girth X Master points have come into fashion stateside after being popular in Europe for many years. 

Adjustable tethers like the Petzl connect adjust, Edelrid switch, and Camp Swing are very popular nowadays. 

Top rope soloing has become a big thing. This is a very popular way to work the moves out on hard climbs, get more climbing in than top-roping (especially in groups), and makes it possible to climb alone. Lead rope soloing has also come a long way, but is still an expert only technique. 

With the proliferation of top rope soloing, fix and follow tactics have become popular on hard multipitch routes. The leader usually foot pumps to haul a small backpack, if needed, but the leader no longer has to belay the second. This allows for better recovery for the leader between pitches. 

When it comes to clothing systems, I don’t think that much has changed. Maybe the two biggest developments are free-fiber synthetic insulations (lighter and more breathable than sheet-based, but more susceptible to moisture) and PFC-free membrane technologies (better for the environment but less water-repellent). Everything else still holds true. 

Not been around that long but, nothing much has changed dramatically in the last 15 years regarding gear, active insulation is a nice quality of life improvement, everyone is rocking a PAS with the most popular being the evolv adjust. 

Nothing out there is of note for what you're interested in either, tbh. Finding all the best gear is worth it when you're buying new for the first time but if you already own it very little is actually worth upgrading. 

There is a fair bit new with clothing but nothing breakthrough, new technology comes along and what's old is new again, whether that be synthetic insulation, soft shells, or mesh baselayers. It's all gotten much better and more comfortable but at no small cost. 

If we were talking about backpacking gear it'd be a very different story. 

In the last fifteen years the only really noteworthy change is Totems. Everything else is essentially the same. 

I'll limit my comments to water ice climbing. Your ice boots and crampons won't be holding you back. But if you have never run the 'Borgs as monopoint, you owe it to yourself to give that a whirl.  Screws - get them sharpened and maybe re-profiled with taller teeth. Stock BDs in particular from 15 years ago are outperformed by new screws (yes, even by the newest BDs, though I have concerns even with them).  Run with the Quarks until you get back at least to where you were BITD. But then borrow a friend's modern leashless tools (Nomics, X-Dreams, Raptors, Hydras) and start setting a bit of money away from each paycheck.

Most has been said but here is my opinion:

For Ice Climbing:

•  For me the most important: there has been some significant improvements in boots technology. Get a pair of modern boots, there are much more comfortable, warmer and more accurate than those of 15years ago.
• Aluminum Ice Screws (don't get the BD ones, use Petzl or Blue Ice) are definitely a new thing, super useful for lightening the backpack on alpine stuff
• Modular crampons probably were not as versatile as today. Now you can have front for technical ice and lightweight aluminum back points.

Trad Climbing:

• Totems as the diamond standard for cams
• More microcams choices: DMM dragonfly, BD Z4, Wild Country Zero Friends, Alien X

Alpine Stuffs: 

• Semi-technical ice axes, like the Blue Ice Akila: they're not a full waterfall ice climbing ice axes, so can be use for glacier progress better than a Quark, but come with a technical pick so can actually climb ice and mix with those.
• Lighter and more technical or specialized backpacks
• Superlight yet comfy harness: Petzl Sita, Blue Ice Chouca Pro...
• Not sure that 15 years ago you could find the Beal Opera, a 8.5mm triple rated tope, the best for alpine stuff where you want to save pack weight.
• Headlamp have gained max brightness and autonomy thanks to improvement in battery tech

General Climbing:

• New generation of ropes that are more cut / abrasion resistant, like the Elderid Protect...
• Lighter and more protective helmets
• Carabiners with steel inserts (Elderid Bulletproof), very useful for belaying, rappelling, TR anchors...

Microtrax for crevasse rescue has been a massive paradigm shift. 

You’ll want new boots too— even ignoring technical improvements, 15yo PU midsoles will start to crumble the first time you use them seriously.

that guy named sebwrote:

Not been around that long but, nothing much has changed dramatically in the last 15 years regarding gear, active insulation is a nice quality of life improvement, everyone is rocking a PAS with the most popular being the evolv adjust. 

Nothing out there is of note for what you're interested in either, tbh. Finding all the best gear is worth it when you're buying new for the first time but if you already own it very little is actually worth upgrading. 

There is a fair bit new with clothing but nothing breakthrough, new technology comes along and what's old is new again, whether that be synthetic insulation, soft shells, or mesh baselayers. It's all gotten much better and more comfortable but at no small cost. 

If we were talking about backpacking gear it'd be a very different story. 

I didn't want to cast too wide a net, but since you broached it: what would you say on backpacking gear?  I've used a fairly modern (~2010) lightweight tarp setup and a homemade quilt + pad system, but beyond that I didn't go too far into the ultralight backpacking world.  

Learning a lot here.  Just as one example: I doubt I would have even looked at new screws (I have to replace all my soft goods, so I haven't been thinking about hardware), so that's super helpful.  And I used to do some toprope soloing -- usually with a shunt -- and will almost definitely do more.  Good to know that's become more common.

I should probably ask about gloves and insulation layers for ice / alpine. Ice gloves always seemed very dependent on personal preference, so maybe not much to say there. I think my Rab synthetic jacket and MHW (iirc) down jacket are still fine for now, but need to dig them out of my storage unit.

Gloves?

Showa( temeres)

The black ones with a gator type cuff.

Under 30 $!!

For lead climbing ( not super warm)

I personally think these gloves are great…

builttospillwrote:

Learning a lot here.  Just as one example: I doubt I would have even looked at new screws (I have to replace all my soft goods, so I haven't been thinking about hardware), so that's super helpful.  And I used to do some toprope soloing -- usually with a shunt -- and will almost definitely do more.  Good to know that's become more common.

Shunts have been shown to not be safe for top rope soloing as they have a failure mode that has led to at least one serious injury: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/121348649/accident-at-haus-rock-near-keystone-co-petzl-shunt-accident

I think it's safe to say that the standard is now to use two devices, as the reports of a single device failing are growing in number and are hard to ignore. There are a variety of device combos that work; many people use a microtrax as at least one of the devices. There has been some innovation in anti-crossloading lockers and double-gate lockers which some people like as a component of a TRS setup. 

builttospillwrote:

I didn't want to cast too wide a net, but since you broached it: what would you say on backpacking gear?  I've used a fairly modern (~2010) lightweight tarp setup and a homemade quilt + pad system, but beyond that I didn't go too far into the ultralight backpacking world.  

I'd say the users have maybe matured and people have stopped chasing numbers and remembered why light is right and that's comfort. 

Flat tarps were the shit a decade ago but tarp tents are more popular now offering more protection at a similar weight. The days of totally unstructured packs and sub 1kg base weights are mostly gone, with people realising a cuben fiber grocery bag is less comfortable than a reasonably padded 45L pack with various pockets optimised for staying fed and hydrated on the move. Pads are better with the Xlite being stupid light for its warmth and pack size. Shoes have gotten much better with Hokka changing the game here.

 Water systems haves changed, drinking tube add ons for smart water bottles, or nice soft flasks that sit into nice suspension systems that are basically running vests. 

Layering has gotten better with Soft shell systems, with active insulation fleeces like polartec direct are more breathable, warmer, and lighter, and when paired with wind jackets it really improves on trail comfort rain or shine. 

That's just off the top of my head but I'm sure there's plenty more. 

Seb nailed it. Tents and backpacks have come a long way in 15 years, preserving their ultralight origins but gaining structure, features, and comfort for just a few more ounces. 

Water filters like the Sawyer squeeze and Katadyn BeFree have taken over the market. These filter water so fast you can just drink directly from them as they filter. Their speed allows carrying less water when fill up points are ample. 

Running backpacks are a newer thing and have gained a lot of popularity. They have stretchy and wide shoulder straps that keep the packs from bouncing around while running. They have lots of big pockets in the shoulder straps to accommodate soft flasks, phones, and frequently used items. These style of straps are now proliferating into other genres of backpacks. They are commonly used as leader and follower packs nowadays. 

Polartec Alpha Direct is mildly revolutionary. It comes in 4 weights (60, 90, 120, and 190). 60 and 90 are by far the most popular. This fabric is drastically more breathable than any other fleece. The fabric can dump heat very quickly. In breezy conditions you can leave alpha direct on as an outer layer as if it wasn't there, add a light layer on top and suddenly it is quite warm. It is ultralight and warmer for its weight than any other fleece. It absorbs almost no water and dries super fast. It has some stretch to it, less than grid fleece but more than traditional fleece. It is not very durable and it snags very easily, you have to be careful with it. Little cottage businesses dominate the alpha direct market. An alpha direct 90 hoody is a nice piece to add to your kit. 

builttospillwrote:

Learning a lot here.  Just as one example: I doubt I would have even looked at new screws (I have to replace all my soft goods, so I haven't been thinking about hardware), so that's super helpful.  And I used to do some toprope soloing -- usually with a shunt -- and will almost definitely do more.  Good to know that's become more common.

I should probably ask about gloves and insulation layers for ice / alpine.  Ice gloves always seemed very dependent on personal preference, so maybe not much to say there. I think my Rab synthetic jacket and MHW (iirc) down jacket are still fine for now, but need to dig them out of my storage unit.

Ill start by saying that I have almost no experience with ice climbing, so I cant really comment on gear in that area. I will say my favorite winter gloves are the flylow Tough Guy gloves. just warm enough for me and also allow for tons of movement. Same deal with alpine.

As far as easy trad goes, yes totems are nice, but they're definitely not mandatory. The only time I've ever really liked/needed totems around LCC (if you're still around there?) was when doing Green Adjective, and even then I only used one, (black totem) and you can still get by with just nuts and tcus. IF you have extra money to spend, get the three smallest sizes and call it a day. 

Happy Trails!

-Matt

builttospillwrote:

Learning a lot here.  Just as one example: I doubt I would have even looked at new screws (I have to replace all my soft goods, so I haven't been thinking about hardware), so that's super helpful.  And I used to do some toprope soloing -- usually with a shunt -- and will almost definitely do more.  Good to know that's become more common.

Yeah, don't use a shunt, this is the biggest trend in recent years imo, more so than any gear. The proliferation in safer practices in TRS as well as how widely available this information is available has really changed this whole area, it's too much to put in a single thread so check out MP, it's really not that complicated but there are things you do need to not do and using a shunt is one of them. 

I should probably ask about gloves and insulation layers for ice / alpine.  Ice gloves always seemed very dependent on personal preference, so maybe not much to say there. I think my Rab synthetic jacket and MHW (iirc) down jacket are still fine for now, but need to dig them out of my storage unit.

Your rab synthetic can probably be canned, synthetics really don't hold up well to long term storage though down does last, synthetics have developed leaps and bounds over just the last couple of years. If I were to vouch for 1 company for insulation it'd be mountain equipment, there are very few companies out there that can boast having a PhD in down on their product development staff. 

Scott Dwrote:

For trad protection Totems are really the newest thing going, they use a "direct cam loading" system and they are excellent. All the usual companies have come out with narrower-headed cams in #0.75 and smaller. For BD that is Z4, Zero Friends for Wild Country, and Dragonflies for DMM - all of these are lighter, more flexible, and smaller than C4's, Friends, or Dragons. Other than in sandstone (or other soft rock) these are a nice upgrade. They essentially invalidate UL C4's (which came out in ~2015) in those sizes.

I'd caveat this by saying that if you have C3s or original Aliens (as many of us who started climbing in the mid-aughts do), you're not going to get any functional upgrade from Z4s, Zero Friends, or Dragonflies; and in many instances the newer stuff is inferior. (There's a reason C3s are sought after on here).

As for ice, I'm going to disagree slightly with my Gunkie counterpart and say that screws post-BD's introduction of stainless hangers haven't seen a huge enough leap to justify the immediate upgrade if you're just getting back into it. If you're sporting old black hanger BD screws though, by all means drop some cash. The jump from those boys to the next-gen stainless in '08 was the biggest performance enhancement in ice screws during my 20 years climbing IMO. Aluminum screws are nice for long approaches or alpine, but are inferior to steel in some conditions, and probably should not top the update list.

For tools I do think it is worthwhile to upgrade however. While the Quarks were a great tool, the Nomics were a quantum leap in performance when they were introduced in '08. Almost 20 years later, the Nomic is still essentially the same tool with a few enhancements (like a spike and modular system) because they nailed the design so perfectly the first time. Every other manufacturer has been chasing the Nomic for 17 years. I got Nomics in my third ice season right when they were introduced and in addition to leveling up my climbing by an order of magnitude, they just made ice and mixed so much *fun*. From a pure enjoyment factor, no other piece of gear has ever had the impact of my Nomics. These days there are many options--X-Dreams, Nomics, Hydras, etc--and they all perform comparably. 

Crampons haven't advanced at all, really. I still climb water ice on my Rambo4s, or Petzl Darts for longer approaches. The Darts finally went modular in 2019, which was a huge upgrade for those of us who hated having to choose between mono or duals, or shelling out $90 for replacement frontpoints. But beyond that, I can't think of anything on the crampon advancement front really of note. The same folks who climbing were climbing on Darts or Rambos or G20s in the aughts are still climbing on Darts or Rambos or G20s today. Your Cyborgs should be plenty fine for your first season back.

Boots have gotten a lot lighter and less bulky, but beyond that it's questionable. I still run Nepals from 15 years ago because I can't get an equivalent heel lock in any of the newer stuff. (Though I'm debating whether to take the plunge on a pair of GTechs). Considering how much boots cost these days, I'd put this as a season two upgrade.  

Lastly, headlamps have come a long ways. When I compare my old Petzl Tikka from '08 to my Swift RL from last year, it may as well be the difference between a candle and a spotlight. 

I will also posit the Beal Escaper, a tool that I believe if you're using it right and in the right places is 123g of pure awesome versality