New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #32

The rat needed a tasty meal.  An hr drive and a vigorous 30 min uphill ski and it was time to feast.

last weeks rain really helped the ice situation. 

Still not IN by most folks standards

but it climbed pretty well

I made it into the  cave  with the bolts. The exit out cave right looked interesting so I had a look. 

It was rather sporty climbing 120ft off the deck but not too bad . 

Another 60ft of easy slab and I topped out to the walk off. Well fed ;)

nice moonrise

Nice Nick!  Full moon and all

A few days ago, some kids wandered over to introduce themselves to Bob.  They were pretty starstruck. They had been climbing across the way and just stopped to talk. One kid had been on the road for a year. Another one was visiting from Maine I think. The other from Los Angeles maybe.  I am surprised how rare it is to see this.

I missed the gathering with the stone masters the other night. Does anyone here regret wasting their teens and 20s being bums?  I keep hearing it said that climbers are a bit pretentious. Personally, I think anyone who has climbed that hard has earned their swag. 

I kind of disagree with that sentiment. being good at sports is never an excuse for not being a good person and treating other folks with kindness and respect. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

I kind of disagree with that sentiment. being good at sports is never an excuse for not being a good person and treating other folks with kindness and respect. 

Or being good at any pursuit that is highly valued by society in general. If a person is highly accomplished or gifted at a given thing, whatever it is, and is still an  asshole , then he/ she is still an asshole. I never have completely understood why people who have gained a measure of notoriety automatically get a pass at being well-behaved because they are famous. However, I can understand that there are celebrated people who let their exalted status go to their heads. This is because they have not been raised right and are not equipped to come to grips with their narcissism, or their underlying and deep insecurities. Such a hapless situation can often lead to terrible outcomes-- as we have seen in the lives of celebrities, for instance.

Also it might be worth adding that accomplished people are often not standouts because they cultivate special attributes as a person; more often than.not it is simply due to the fact that they have fallen in love with their pursuit, spend quality time doing it and learning about it-- and happen to have a body-type  or a brain that is predisposed to working it all out in a way that makes all  the dedication and hard work pay off eventually in a way that makes people notice.

Anywho.

Donald Thompson wrote:

 I never have completely understood why people who have gained a measure of notoriety automatically get a pass at being well-behaved because they are famous. However, I can understand that there are celebrated people who let their exalted status go to their heads. This is because they have not been raised right and are not equipped to come to grips with their narcissism, or their underlying and deep insecurities. Such a hapless situation can often lead to terrible outcomes-- as we have seen in the lives of celebrities, for instance.

Also see: 2024 election 

Lori Milas wrote:

Those eggs are from the Mexican cancer clinic, but we have eggs here just not a lot.

That route is fun. It’s about 100 feet of very steep climbing. 10b/c.  It’s just relentless. But the wall itself is stunning and the rocks and foliage at its base are beautiful. My Native American artist friend says it is “powerful medicine“ and I agree.  
We chose this route as an alternative to compassion of the elephants. For various reasons, this was just more practical.

I did not recall ever making it to the top of this route, but Bob says I did with one wobble. No wobbles for me… I have to start over. :-)

Joshua tree climbs are very nice!

Lori Milas wrote:

I missed the gathering with the stone masters the other night. Does anyone here regret wasting their teens and 20s being bums?  I keep hearing it said that climbers are a bit pretentious. Personally, I think anyone who has climbed that hard has earned their swag.

Surfing and climbing? That’s as bum as you can get, funded by my parents who preferred me to live that lifestyle than building weapons.

No regrets, but I’m probably going to pay for it someday.   

apogee wrote:

Also see: 2024 election 

Let me get this right: only Trump and his supporters personifies most anything you can say negative about human nature --but the politicians you chose and their supporters are beyond reproach? That sounds to me like a political movement that refuses to grow up and is incapable of the collective introspection, honesty, and frankly, sanity required to lead a great nation. 

The fact that you can see reprehensible qualities only in Trump and not your own leaders is exactly why the Left lost the election. I don't see any qualities in Democrats at present or for the foreseeable future that can reverse this pitiful state of affairs. The future is passing you up faster than a downhill freight train in the Cajon Pass.

Yeah but my assumptiois are correct , Apogee. This is much more important than simply making the assumption.

And Brad : I don't buy what you said, none of it. Although you're a good dude. So is the great Apoginsky.You are both the hapless inheritors of a defunct political system.

Anywho, I am over my statement quota.

Later

You make a lot of assumptions, Donald.

Edit: I don't recall ever having been asked by you about my view of Biden, Harris, the Left, or any of the policies that Trump has touted he will accomplish during his term. I do recall making several statements about just how shitty a person Trump is, and a very disappointing leader of the country that you and I greatly appreciate. Obviously this has triggered you to make some very broad assumptions. 

I've also stated before that I don't doubt that if you and I sat down and discussed specific issues and actual values, I'm confident we'd find ourselves predominantly in agreement. 

Donald Thompson wrote:

Let me get this right: only Trump and his supporters personifies most anything you can say negative about human nature --but the politicians you chose and their supporters are beyond reproach? 

I'm curious, Donald, why it always seems to be all or nothing with you? Is there no in between at all?

While he's certainly implied the things you wrote before the double dash, he sure as hell didn't say or imply anything like what you wrote after it. And nor have I seen him ever say or imply any such thing.

Does it ever occur to you that some of us see in the upcoming president a vile, petty human being who's utterly ignorant and incompetent while at the same time disliking several things about what the other side offers?

EDIT: I suppose that I'm making some assumptions too based on apogee's past posts. My apologies if I got those assumptions wrong.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

I kind of disagree with that sentiment. being good at sports is never an excuse for not being a good person and treating other folks with kindness and respect. 

I have yet to meet an asshole climber although I’m sure they’re out there.  
I’ve been asked many times whether I would have encouraged any of my four kids to skip college and go find themselves. The young people I have met here in Joshua Tree are joyful, strong, healthy, positive and motivated. The kid who lived next-door to me holed up in his bedroom all day, playing his Gameboy… I’ve known a lot of those dark and desperate kids. So I was asking this group does anyone regret not taking the conventional route into adulthood?

Thinking back on what many here have shared you found a way to have it all… Somehow build stunning careers, go on to college and get advanced degrees and continue to climb.  Everyone figured out how to pay their bills and have a family if they wanted it – – no one wound up disreputable bums for life.

Likewise, at the other end of life, I am feeling enormous gratitude for this opportunity to get out on rock and do something fun and challenging.  I expected to be doing what my girlfriends are doing… Wine tasting, meeting for the occasional lunch, maybe taking one of those Jazzercise classes at the gym, just basically running out the clock.  

Lori Milas wrote:

I have yet to meet an asshole climber although I’m sure they’re out there.  

Not so much in the gym, cause it’s social, but outdoors? I’ve met my fair share, possibly being one myself in my youth   

I’ve been asked many times whether I would have encouraged any of my four kids to skip college and go find themselves. The young people I have met here in Joshua Tree are joyful, strong, healthy, positive and motivated. The kid who lived next-door to me holed up in his bedroom all day, playing his Gameboy… I’ve known a lot of those dark and desperate kids. So I was asking this group does anyone regret not taking the conventional route into adulthood?

My parents smoked too much weed.  

Thinking back on what many here have shared you found a way to have it all… Somehow build stunning careers, go on to college and get advanced degrees and continue to climb.  Everyone figured out how to pay their bills and have a family if they wanted it – – no one wound up disreputable bums for life.

At least, not yet in this thread.

Likewise, at the other end of life, I am feeling enormous gratitude for this opportunity to get out on rock and do something really fun and challenging.  I expected to be doing what my girlfriends are doing… Wine tasting, meeting for the occasional lunch, maybe taking one of those Jazzercise classes at the gym, just basically running out the clock.  

We should always feel   

I have met a few prima donna climbers ...  not as bad as star football players but either way it doesn't impress me .. -6 f last night. thats about -25c for Carl

Getting a little bit of a new perspective is always a good thing, especially for this old fella, and yesterday I got just that. I spent the day as a volunteer for the "Rock Rumble Royale" bouldering contest here in JT. Much of the day was spent sitting around and waiting for contestants to show up, but it was a nice day to do some people watching with a good friend and just talk. Not a boulderer myself, it was very cool to watch folks on a classic JT problem, Saturday Night Live, which involves a big dynamic move to a finishing hold and then a mantle top-out. One guy had tried it in the past and hadn't done it, and then got it on his third try yesterday. He was beaming with happiness afterwards! One big name celebrity climber (I found out later) looked at it, mentioned how improbable it looked, and fired it first try. At the end of the day, a group of teenagers showed up, one with their Mom (she was younger than me!) By then there was a group of 15 or so folks of different ages, taking turns on attempts and sharing pads and beta and cheering each other on. I have never spent any time hanging out with boulderers and got really caught up in the good vibes going on. 

These old knees won't be doing any hard bouldering, that's for sure, but I had my eyes opened to a different world and am happy to have somewhat changed my outlook on things. 

Lori, happy as I am to still be climbing, I don't think lunches with friends, wine tasting, and jazzercize classes is running out the clock. Actually sounds pretty good to me.

Lori, ever since you posted the Mexican hospital breakfast I had a craving for this…

Brandt Allen wrote:

Getting a little bit of a new perspective is always a good thing, especially for this old fella, and yesterday I got just that. I spent the day as a volunteer for the "Rock Rumble Royale" bouldering contest here in JT. Much of the day was spent sitting around and waiting for contestants to show up, but it was a nice day to do some people watching with a good friend and just talk. Not a boulderer myself, it was very cool to watch folks on a classic JT problem, Saturday Night Live, which involves a big dynamic move to a finishing hold and then a mantle top-out. One guy had tried it in the past and hadn't done it, and then got it on his third try yesterday. He was beaming with happiness afterwards! One big name celebrity climber (I found out later) looked at it, mentioned how improbable it looked, and fired it first try. At the end of the day, a group of teenagers showed up, one with their Mom (she was younger than me!) By then there was a group of 15 or so folks of different ages, taking turns on attempts and sharing pads and beta and cheering each other on. I have never spent any time hanging out with boulderers and got really caught up in the good vibes going on. 

These old knees won't be doing any hard bouldering, that's for sure, but I had my eyes opened to a different world and am happy to have somewhat changed my outlook on things. 

Great seeing you yesterday Brandt. Seems as though Bouldering in the Park is far more popular than roped climbing.

Lori Milas wrote:

I missed the gathering with the stone masters the other night. Does anyone here regret wasting their teens and 20s being bums?  I keep hearing it said that climbers are a bit pretentious. Personally, I think anyone who has climbed that hard has earned their swag. 

Great evening seeing lots of old friends (and, yes, we are definitely older) Friday night.

I doubt that anyone I know regrets spending an inordinate amount of their youth pursuing climbing. Those years were a great time, creating lasting bonds of friendship and wonderful memories.

To the extent that climbers may have been full of themselves, this fades with age and experience.

Thanks, Randy. It was fun reminiscing. 

For others here: Randy was my guide in May of 1980 on my first trip to JT. Those days were the time of stoppers, hexes, quarter-inch bolts, and hip belays.

wendy weiss wrote:

Lori, happy as I am to still be climbing, I don't think lunches with friends, wine tasting, and jazzercize classes is running out the clock. Actually sounds pretty good to me.

I agree, Wendy! Few things in life are better than lunch with friends and wine tasting - at any age -and preferably at the same time. Jazzercise might be a few years down the road yet :)

Nice account of your bouldering observations, Brandt. Very cool. Hope everyone is having a winderful wonter!

Getting to work at 9 am and it’s as dark as the middle of the night. Arctic adventure ends next week. Heading south to balmy Fairbanks for the next chapter. 

This is a training related question… sort of. On my “power days” I do the following (actually, only two times starting this past week).

I’m starting to use a campus board, now that I know that it’s possible for me. Jug holds for now. I can hang statically one arm on the medium rungs, but still feel a bit skittish to attempt campus moves on those rungs. Working my way to the slopers which feel nearly doable for 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1 sort of moves, but again focused upon the jug rungs to avoid injuries.

After campusing, I do my weighted hangs with 50mm down to 10mm with various weights from 135 pounds down to 25 pounds. Finally, as per prescribed methods max hangs for 2-7 seconds.

So, I glanced at this article, and wondered if anyone has experience with it?

Some also recommend Bachar Ladders, which seem complicated to me.

Any thoughts?