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Tis-sa-ack conditions?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Peter Zabrok wrote:

Donald is back....

And as obsessed as ever with a single route. 

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846

Or breaking into a sweat, gnawing at the bit, as I watch Oliver Tippett carefully work his way through “A3,” each move demanding focus and precision. Honestly, we need this guy on that thing, so I can find an excuse to finally go do something else.

 

Olly Tippett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

It seems a long walk just to die on C1...

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13
Olly Tippett wrote:

It seems a long walk just to die on C1...

... or perhaps 5.9/5.10 if you manage to make it to the offwidth* section at the top of the flake before it falls off! 

* Used to be about 5-6 inches; no idea what size it is now. 

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846

It's not that far, and you can go around it, over the top of it, not through it.  I could hold the rope.

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846
Olly Tippett wrote:

It seems a long walk just to die on C1...

How many days do you think it would take to do that if you had all the gear at the base?  How many pitches a day?  Thanks!

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645
donald perry wrote:

How many days do you think it would take to do that if you had all the gear at the base?  How many pitches a day?  Thanks!

This is a dangerous question to ask Olly.  Because .... Olly's not normal.  Olly's a mutant.  Olly solos hard routes in a fraction of the time it takes teams. Olly climbs through desperately hot weather that only he, Keiko and Andy KP can survive. [The rest of us fail from heat exhaustion] If Olly says three days, allow two weeks. If Olly says bring 3 gallons, bring 10 gallons. 

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 723

Forward, he cried 

From the rear 

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846

I thought the hardest part was holding the rope.

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13
donald perry wrote:

I thought the hardest part was holding the rope.

It certainly would be if the 'very heavy' flake to which it was bolted happened to take flight at an awkward moment. Survival, in that circumstance, would be a neat trick as well - if you could manage it! 

M1 H1 · · Boulder ish · Joined Dec 2024 · Points: 0
Kevin DeWeese wrote:

What is the age where I'll decide that everything I have learned in the past is enough and nothing new needs to be learned?

Ask Ryan Maddock how old he is.  We should all be so lucky to lose our fucking minds shit like he.  

Donald.  YGD.  Put up or shut up, bitch.  This is your dream. stop inflicting it on kevin.

M1 H1 · · Boulder ish · Joined Dec 2024 · Points: 0

Im sure you know how to fucking solo donald

M1 H1 · · Boulder ish · Joined Dec 2024 · Points: 0

In fact.  Do it 3 pieces at a time like Xavier. Youll live forever

EDIT: reached my mp imposed rant limit but god damnit donald youre either crazy or youre not.  FUCK.  Geological time includes you but it doesnt care about you, fucker.  So take care of your fucking grandchildren or some thing dude.  Otherwise lets do the nose and you can baby me through some cam hook moves with pride.  Do you see why youre posting about this nonsense?

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846

You know that it’s winter when all the snowflakes come out. Okay, okay, I’ll try and solo it again, failed on that wall so many times I could literally write a book about it, so what difference does it make if I try it again.  A little time and I’ll try it next year.  Not today though—too cold, and there’s a drought on.  It couldn’t get any worse unless it snows.

 I will pray that it rains enough ( the last thing I want to do is get myself into a pickle.)  so I don’t have to haul water up there. At least I won’t need to haul for two. And I should be able to knock out at least two pitches a day— I’ve done five in a single day on my first day on a big wall without a problem.  That’s between 5 and 10, so 12 gallons of water. or 90 pounds if I do need to carry it up.   So maybe I shouldn’t complain.

But I need to do it solo?   Drama is so subjective when you're soloing, which is why it’s so boring. Something happens? Pfft, just forget about it, and you’ll never hear about it again. You can do the dumbest stuff all day long and get away with it—just like Climber XYZ who says his close calls are commonplace and thinks he is actually doing something smart.  Yet, I suppose that nothing will happen when I do it because I will be using a rope.  So, no big deal.

 

Jabroni McChufferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0

I don’t get it 

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

I don’t get it 

you need to get your CTE decoder ring calibrated.

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846

This thread is a saga of one route, safety concerns, shifting climbing culture, and unshakable determination to get the climb done—no matter what the snowflakes or rocks throw along the way. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

I don’t get it 

Don has a tendency to become obsessed with a route and then brings in a bunch of baggage, and his writing style is, well,....

M1 H1 · · Boulder ish · Joined Dec 2024 · Points: 0
Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

I don’t get it 

He needs validation.  Lots of it.  Donald, a saga? Hahaha you are a massive wad.

donald perry · · New Jersey · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 846
M1 H1 wrote:

He needs validation.  Lots of it.  Donald, a saga? Hahaha you are a massive wad.

Do you think this ("being a massive wad") may help me commit harder?   I need massive amounts of validation.  

I have a funny feeling that whatever you say it will perfectly repeat just when I need it most.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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