Recommendations for a first 6000 m peak, South America in February

Starting to research and figured I’d ask the group: any recommendations for a 6000 m peak in South America in late February? Ideally non-technical, haven’t been above 14,000 ft. Currently have Nevado San Francisco, Ojos Del Salado, and  Cerró el Plata on my radar. Cheers!

If you have never been up that height and non technical......i recommend doing the plomo with the preparation that involves getting there in the santiago area and crown your journey with ojos or licancabur. Guide required due to local regulations. Andeshandbook.org great place to start

Go big, run up Aconcagua though late Feb might be a bit late. 

Cerro Plata, close to Mendoza, Argentina, is a walk up… but shy of 6000 meters by about 50 meters, I believe. But the wine in the region will make up for that.
EDIT: It’s 5968 meters apparently. 

Generally speaking in the Andes non-technical = boring scenery (relatively). 

My #1 recommendation would be to go climb Huayna Potosí in Bolivia with a guide. It's fast, efficient (time and travel-wise), you've got nice huts, all the gear is included, you get some 70/80 degree ice/snow experience (easy), you get a knife edge ridge to finish (easy but mentally demanding). I think I paid $150 + a generous tip to our guide. It was my girlfriend's first ever mountain climb of any kind. For me it it was a luxurious way to start my Andean climbing season. It's got altitude, fun climbing, and a bit of comfort.. Best value in the industry anywhere. Do NOT book online, book in person and pay 1/10th the price. 

It's easy to combine with a trip to Salar de Uyuni and/or anything else in Bolivia. It also close to lake Titicaca and the Cusco/Machu Picchu region in Peru. 

After that the Huaraz region of Peru is the premiere high altitude climbing destination in the Andes. It's probably the best 6,000m destination on the planet. Permits are easy and cheap (have an AAC membership), gear is widely available for rent in Huaraz, taxis to the trailheads are inexpensive, and there's good rock climbing near Huaraz for the off days. The mountains here at clustered together and they are steep with big hanging glaciers, it's absolutely beautiful. 

Pisco is a great non-technical warmup (18,871'). I could climb Yanapacha again and again forever and be totally happy, it is only 17,913' but a "two tool" route with minimal moraine to cross and unbelievable views. Tocllaraju is a great option for a 6,000m peak, there a few spicy sections and a rappel from the summit but otherwise it's straightforward and one-day out-and-back from a nice hut. There's a lifetime worth of great climbing to be done out there. 

Here's the rub with Chile and Argentina: their high altitude mountains rise out of an already very high desert plateau. It's one of driest places on earth. There is zero vegetation as far as the eye can see. It's dead and Mars like. It's mostly volcanic so mountains are conical and gradual, steepness being  ound where parts of mountains have fallen away. There not a lot of glaciers. Overall it's a recipe for bland scenery. Aconcagua, and the surrounding area, is a bunch of big rubble heaps. Hard work combined with dull scenery = "why am I here?" These mountains have their beauty, of course, but they don't compare to similar climbing destinations in the Himalayas, Alaska, or Peru.

Cotopaxi is slightly under 6k.  Really nice peak, and while glaciated, not super technical.  You can hire a guide for a few hundred bucks.

Ojos del Salado, if you want to climb something with sneakers. Easy as and probably the highest mountain in the world that has no permanent snow. It's on my to-do list. ;)

Bolivia - Cordillera Real is a great first area. It has less avalanche hazard compared to Peru (Cordillera Blanca). I went to Condoriri area (Pequeño alpamayo, pirámide blanca, cabeza de cóndor), Huayna potosi, and Illimani. Very beautiful and it is feasible to go unguided if you know your way around glaciers (and speaking Spanish helps). I know many people hire guides to simplify logistics and since it is not expensive but I prefer the experience of making our way unguided

Okay thank you all for the recommendations!

Given that this will late February is Bolivia still feasible weather-wise? Everything I’d found suggested that the Aconcagua region was the best bet that time of year.

Ryan Mac wrote:

Okay thank you all for the recommendations!

Given that this will late February is Bolivia still feasible weather-wise? Everything I’d found suggested that the Aconcagua region was the best bet that time of year.

I’m not an Andes expert, but my understanding is that most of their precipitation and snow falls in their summer months (nov-march-ish).  Their winters (May-oct) have more dry and predictable weather.  I believe climbing up high in the wet season is  possible, but there is higher likelihood of being skunked by stormy or snowy weather or lightning.

I went to Bolivia in September. the 3 weeks we were there, the weather was indeed stable (it only snowed for part of one day in the mountains). Being late season, things were a bit more icy up high and there was more scree (snow had melted from the approaches)

Mitch L wrote:

I’m not an Andes expert, but my understanding is that most of their precipitation and snow falls in their summer months (nov-march-ish).  Their winters (May-oct) have more dry and predictable weather.  I believe climbing up high in the wet season is  possible, but there is higher likelihood of being skunked by stormy or snowy weather or lightning.

I went to Bolivia in September. the 3 weeks we were there, the weather was indeed stable (it only snowed for part of one day in the mountains). Being late season, things were a bit more icy up high and there was more scree (snow had melted from the approaches)

Yup....the famous Invierno Boliviano.... but still planty to do in the Diablo Peaks of la paz right next to the Nevado.