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Top Rope Solo set up

Logan Peterson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 241

I'll add my 2 cents to MicroTraxion not chewing rope on a fall...if it's set up so you don't fall far. The chest/neck attachment is crucial for this (but device is still hard-wired to your hip harness). This also keeps the primary and the backup from touching and potentially causing a malfunction (depending on devices). And bring a long prussic to un-weight the device or you will chew your rope. I attach this right below the devices and step into it. Easy.

I'll also suggest a stopper knot far enough above the deck to handle any potential stretch...at least until you're sure your setup is foolproof. Knot saved my butt after a Shunt/Xinda malfunction...which was probably my fault (2 devices interfering with each other). That experience sold me on the MicroTraxion as a primary. This is a rare case where the most popular/expensive tool seems to be the best. Ropeman 1 is my backup. Haven't had any trouble with this, but I still tie a stopper knot at the first rest.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

My current setup is 2 Microtraxions on one line. I'm finding that I'm getting a lot of cross-loading of the lockers the micros are attached to. Probably not the end of the world with the forces generated in a short toprope fall, but still... I've tried using both a small modified D locker (DMM Phantom I think) and an HMS biner. The little D was better but still cross-loaded occasionally. Any suggestions? 

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208
Optimistic wrote:

My current setup is 2 Microtraxions on one line. I'm finding that I'm getting a lot of cross-loading of the lockers the micros are attached to. Probably not the end of the world with the forces generated in a short toprope fall, but still... I've tried using both a small modified D locker (DMM Phantom I think) and an HMS biner. The little D was better but still cross-loaded occasionally. Any suggestions? 

The best carabiner for micro traxions when used for toprope solo, the gate can pass through the hole on the micro trax, and the oval shape makes crossloasing near impossible

It seems like they didn't sell too well.  You used to be able to get them through the REI outlet for cheap.  Now they're harder to come by, but still get-able.

The crossloading you're experiencing can cause the plates of the device to pry apart, damaging it.  If that plate deformation is bad enough, the device could fail to catch you.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Sam Skovgaard wrote:

The best carabiner for micro traxions when used for toprope solo, the gate can pass through the hole on the micro trax, and the oval shape makes crossloasing near impossible

It seems like they didn't sell too well.  You used to be able to get them through the REI outlet for cheap.  Now they're harder to come by, but still get-able.

The crossloading you're experiencing can cause the plates of the device to pry apart, damaging it.  If that plate deformation is bad enough, the device could fail to catch you.

Are those what you use? 

I do have a Petzl William Oval, I can give that a try... 

I haven't heard this issue mentioned much, could I be doing something wrong that's making the cross-loading more likely? 

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208
Optimistic wrote:

Are those what you use? 

I do have a Petzl William Oval, I can give that a try... 

I haven't heard this issue mentioned much, could I be doing something wrong that's making the cross-loading more likely? 

I use them, and love them.

The Petzl William isn't an oval.

Post a picture of your setup and I'll let you know.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,697

BD Gridlock (or the similar DMM Ceros) used in "Grigri mode" to avoid crossloading?

Mike Gibson · · Payson, AZ · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0
Exiled Michigander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 252
Snow Flake wrote: Hang your rope w a fig 8 bunny ears. Put a microtrax on each line. Done.

Another agreement on this.  I use a Climbing Technology RollnLock instead of a Petzl Micro Traxion on one strand and a Camp Lift on the other though, just because when I first started there was a Petzl website that recommended using two different types of devices to avoid the (exceedingly rare) possibility that you'd get a double failure of the same device for some bizarre reason.

Personally I like using this set up more than just a single rope, although I'm sure two devices on a single rope is just as safe for most circumstances.  Top-roping ice might be one exception though.

jay steinke · · Duluth, Mn. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 20
Optimistic wrote:

My current setup is 2 Microtraxions on one line. I'm finding that I'm getting a lot of cross-loading of the lockers the micros are attached to. Probably not the end of the world with the forces generated in a short toprope fall, but still... I've tried using both a small modified D locker (DMM Phantom I think) and an HMS biner. The little D was better but still cross-loaded occasionally. Any suggestions? 

The Grival clepsydra small twin gate. Perfect on micro trax. Would not use anything else

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

The metolius gatekeeper is an excellent and cheap belay biner that works wonders for preventing your mini ascenders from walking around and from your biners twisting. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Guys, cross loading in a fall factor 0.001 fall on a dynamic or even *static* is really the least of your worries

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
that guy named seb wrote:

Guys, cross loading in a fall factor 0.001 fall on a dynamic or even *static* is really the least of your worries

This is absolutely true, however it saves time to not have to fuck around with your gear and having things neat and orderly is in itself enjoyable to some of us. 

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

I've posted in other TR solo threads, but the Camp Goblin as the main, Trax style device on a leash as a backup, and a Trango Vergo (can be installed on a weighted line) used for when you want to go back down is a super efficient, industrial strength system that's easy on the rope, accommodates a 9.5-10.5 rope and beyond in both directions, and moves up and down the rope with no interaction. Amazing setup that ill never change, unless the Goblin ever gets a redesign with a lowering handle. 

DMM Ceros with a rubber band on the nose is my favorite locker for the Goblin.

Jim Pavoldi · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 1,929

i have settled the past 2 years or so on a camp lift on one line, a ropeman 2 on the other oriented with a sling crossed at the shoulder blades and centered with delta quicklink and underwear elastic butterflied to keep the lift oriented; i almost always use two lines as descending with a grigri on an unweighted line makes things so much faster. just got back from a lunchbreak trs (i get out 2-3x per week)i, and for fun i have been using my mankiest 90's screamer on the anchor to see if i can activate it (no luck yet!).  for lead i use a chest harness with an upside down grigri modified with drill holes in the plastic and 2mm to orient it for feeding from a backpack. 

b k · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 4

Nano Traxion on Petzl SM'D with a chest harness (made of slings or shoelaces) to keep the primary above the backup, and a Micro Traxion on a DMM PerfectO Locksafe (3 stage). On a well used Sterling 9.4mm rope.  With a little weight on the end the nano seems to track very well, even on steeper terrain.

Mike Larson · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 70

Ushba Basic Titanium with an Avant Neck Lanyard and a Micro Trax, on separate lines, usually an old Mammut 10mm. I'm not sure there's a better combo out there. Good luck finding an Ushba these days unfortunately.

b k · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 4
Mike Larson wrote:

Ushba Basic Titanium with an Avant Neck Lanyard and a Micro Trax, on separate lines, usually an old Mammut 10mm. I'm not sure there's a better combo out there. Good luck finding an Ushba these days unfortunately.

There's one on ebay right now. Two lines is too cumbersome for me. Which biner do you use on the micro.

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72

The taz lov is excellent, don’t need to transition between climbing and rapping (aside from removing my backup microtrax).

Mike Larson · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 70
b k wrote:

There's one on ebay right now. Two lines is too cumbersome for me. Which biner do you use on the micro.

Haven't seen that in a while and anybody interested should grab it. As what biner on the Micro, just an old BD HMS. 

Will Alpine · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30

Here's my personal favorite TRS setup. I compiled various insights from several MP threads hoping to improve the overall state of documentation.

DIY on Instructables

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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