Static (low stretch) vs dynamic for TR soloing, bolting etc

Always used old, retired dynamic ropes personally, but which do you all prefer and why?

I use dynamic ropes when I TR solo because I have lots of them and I don't have any static rope at the moment. I also like to have the option to Lead Rope Solo so a dynamic rope serves that purpose well, whereas a static line would not and would only be good for TRS. 

Low stretch ropes are significantly more dangerous for TR solo in the event of device failure. 

I prefer static ropes, mostly because they don't rub against edges as much.  They're also nicer to ascend if it comes to that.  Basically the same reasons static ropes are used in caving and canyoning. 

I second limpingcrab, also with a static on TR solo or rappelling to bolt something if you happen to fall you'll fall much less of a distance and not have to deal with getting the stretch out of the rope before continuing upward.

that guy named sebwrote:

Low stretch ropes are significantly more dangerous for TR solo in the event of device failure. 

Prove it

I TRS on a static rope. Mainly because I don't have to worry about decking with rope stretch when there are hard moves off the ground. Someone above mentioned static lines being less prone to abrasion. I suppose that may be technically true in that the sawing motion will be less dramatic than with a stretchy rope, but I do want to stress that abrasion is very much a concern, and you should be taking steps to mitigate abrasion when setting up your rope.

Which brand/diameter do y'all like most with a micro trax, if you're using static?

Old dynamic ropes suit me just fine for TRS. If the pitch is long, just refix with cloves or slipknots a few times on the way down. Rope stretch solved. 

And as Cosmic Hotdog said, if you feel like LRSing (or need to to set the TRS) an old dynamic pulls double duty. I use a 15yo 10mm Mammut that works great and keeps me from having to plunk down $200 for yet another one-trick-pony rope.

b kwrote:

Which brand/diameter do y'all like most with a micro trax, if you're using static?

I've got 200ft of the Edelrid Performance Static 10mm. I'm very happy with it. 

The Sterling SafetyPro 10mm line is 25% off right now at HowNot2, and is supposed to be a very good rope for TRS.

I use old dynamic ropes too. I like having the maximum about of shock absorbtion in any situation, but understand that even a dynamic rope's absorbtion ability is only proportional to the amount of live rope. Take care close to anchors. 

The blue water haul line 9.5 rope looks enticing. 

Static for developing, although I have many a dynamic rope fixed to crags I'm working on as I type this.

TRS I like 9.5 dynamic. If feeds better than a thicker rope, obviously, but is thick enough to make me not think about that while climbing 

Developing chews through ropes and static lines are expensive. Much cheaper to source old dynamic ropes from all the gumbies local climbers who retire their perfectly good ropes.

b kwrote:

Always used old, retired dynamic ropes personally, but which do you all prefer and why?

I use both a dynamic and a static rope. Mostly because those are the two ropes that I own and I like to TRS on a fully redundant system. I use an old petzl basic into the belay loop as a primary device on the static line. On the dynamic line I use an old microcender on a 17cm dogbone quicklinked to my hard points. This way if there is a failure of my primary device, rope, or anchor I'm falling on a nontoothed device on a dynamic line. 

Erroneous Publicuswrote:

Prove it

If the device fails and you fall to your backup knot you will break the rope as its static. Hownot2 did a video showing this somewhere but I can't seem to find it unfortunately. 

Statics are nice when it's overhanging so you don't end up away from the wall, otherwise they serve no advantage over a single. Any issues with rope stretch can generally be solved by just refixing. 

that guy named sebwrote:

If the device fails and you fall to your backup knot you will break the rope as its static. Hownot2 did a video showing this somewhere but I can't seem to find it unfortunately. 

Statics are nice when it's overhanging so you don't end up away from the wall, otherwise they serve no advantage over a single. Any issues with rope stretch can generally be solved by just refixing. 

You're gonna break your back before you snap the rope, but I doubt even half of people are running that kind of back up.

For jugging - static

For TRS - dynamic.  I like the give when I fall/work cruxes.  And while I think people make a way bigger deal about tooth devices on ropes than is warranted, once you're near the anchor it can matter in specific scenarios.

almostradwrote:

You're gonna break your back before you snap the rope, but I doubt even half of people are running that kind of back up.

You're right, but I'm not sure how good of a shock absorber your spine is. 

Two devices certainly does seem to be the norm these days so you might think the failure mode doesn't apply to you, but as you say, even in a less extreme scenario with a bit too much slack especially close to the anchor you have quite the genuine risk of serious damage to the rope. I didn't really think the risk was that bad until I saw the hownot2 vid, shame I can't find it. 

Y'all are arguing over which is best, meanwhile some crusher is working a pitch on el cap 2000’ off the deck on TRS with one grigri and whatever rope he stashed there 3 months ago. Basically, don’t worry about it

low elongation gym specific dynamic ropes. built for durability and high use. a good balance of safety, performance, and handling for the OP's use case. 

Garrett Swankwrote:

Y'all are arguing over which is best, meanwhile some crusher is working a pitch on el cap 2000’ off the deck on TRS with one grigri and whatever rope he stashed there 3 months ago. Basically, don’t worry about it

Climbing hard and having efficient systems aren't the same thing.  Obviously one is way cooler but I've seen plenty of strong climbers doing dumb shit and I need every advantage I can get homie.

Sincerely,

Your local onverconfident chuffer