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Fall rated / reinforced Hooks

Original Post
Malcolm Jarvis · · Vancouver Island, BC, CA · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 275

I've seen in videos a number of climbers using hooks with added reinforcement when leaving behind hooks as protection. A number of times I've had to tape/weigh/tension hooks and never felt good about the metal holding. I've looked for these reinforced hooks without success. Does anyone know names / brands that make these reinforced versions, so I can pick a couple up?

bernard wolfe · · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 300

something tells me these are not UIAA approved

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Malcolm Jarvis · · Vancouver Island, BC, CA · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 275
Ben Ha wrote:

https://hownot2.com/products/punky?variant=47357011362107

https://fierroequip.com/en/productos/

Thank you!! I looked on many stores (including hownot2), but their search didn't have this come up when looking for "hook". Subscribed to updates for when they're back in stock.

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Just contact 'fierroequip' they're pretty responsive. 

Kauait · · Wheels be turnin. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I believed the pika hooks to be  comforting for moving way above them. Not being manufactured anymore, but I'm sure you could track some down.  (Ibis'  hooks?) Above hooks look worthy of purchase. 

Jay Crew · · Apple Valley CA, · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 3,953

If you are not following this guy, you are missing out!



Brian R · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 1
Kauait wrote:

I believed the pika hooks to be  comforting for moving way above them. Not being manufactured anymore, but I'm sure you could track some down.  (Ibis'  hooks?) Above hooks look worthy of purchase. 


@Kauait the Pika Ibis and Spoonbill are still available. Josh decided to keep them in production, making them the only Pika products that are currently being made. All three sizes, from “just right” to “bloody hell” are available direct at www.pikavo.com and also from Verti Call Store (a distributor) - at www.verticalstore.com 


The Pika hooks are indeed strong, there’s even been reliable reporting of a Spoonbill catching a solid whipper. The twist design makes them significantly stronger compared to the typical skyhook design.

The Punkey’s from Fierro look sweet too.  That tensioning setup they sell to the hook, so it can be used for pro, looks really solid.  Their local climbing looks to have a lot of pocketed rock that is ideal for both hooks to be engaged in opposition.
It would be interesting know how well (or if) the tensioning setup works on glacier polished granite walls.  Not yet seen or heard of the full set up being utilized on El Cap (just the main hook).  That could simply come down to How Not To Store  selling the Punkey’s a la carte, 

Trae McCombs · · Macon · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5
Jay Crew wrote:

If you are not following this guy, you are missing out!



https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxniytvJB6p18h2pdZ2gdBe5mDKSiyQUpV?si=EF5pR4aC9wZeB-H3

I clipped the Fall bits.  And Oliver is amazing!

T H · · Germany · Joined Jan 2024 · Points: 0

I´m not sure if they can take a hard fall, but the V-Hook from Kop de Gas (Spain) is rated for 12 KN. Not a regular hook though, more of a cross between a beak and a hook.

link

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 300
bernard wolfe wrote:

something tells me these are not UIAA approved

Yeah but they're "this bad boy isn't going anywhere" rated which is far superior

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

i have taken a small/medium fall on a standard BD hook. it held, but it was a really good placement where the top of the flake was pretty much conformal with the inside radius of the hook, so it greatly reduced the bending.  if you are falling on a hook where the tip of the hook is just daggered into a thin flake or hole, i think the chances of it holding would be pretty small.  too many failure modes - bending hook loses contact angle with surface, hook bends fully open, tip of hook pulverizes rock, etc.  the videos above had my hands sweating a bit.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Yo! What’s the difference between the Ibis and the Spoonbill? The 2.0, the 3+ and the 4+, etc. looks like there are 3 different radii (sp?) and maybe different feet?

If you had to limit yourself to just 2 or 3 (ahem), which ones would you buy?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Charles Winstead wrote:

Yo! What’s the difference between the Ibis and the Spoonbill? The 2.0, the 3+ and the 4+, etc. looks like there are 3 different radii (sp?) and maybe different feet?

The ibis is pointy. 

Isaac Leija · · Salinas, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 35
Trae McCombs wrote:

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxniytvJB6p18h2pdZ2gdBe5mDKSiyQUpV?si=EF5pR4aC9wZeB-H3

I clipped the Fall bits.  And Oliver is amazing!

Kind of fun to think about what those of you would do, who don't connect to your ladders....

Thinking about the results if Ollie wasn't... 

at the time the rock exploded, he was not holding onto anything.

so the ladder he's standing on falls to the ground and the one he just placed stays hooked on its own high above him. (maybe the Alfifi will catch the lower one?)

hopefully you can reach the top ladder after jugging back up, but if not, i guess you just make some sling ladders to get back to the high point right? 

and continue to use a sling ladder with your other one for the rest of the wall? 

probably good to keep an extra in the bag if you know your going daisy-less. 

i'm suppose to be working right now...

 

Malcolm Jarvis · · Vancouver Island, BC, CA · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 275
Isaac Leija wrote:

Kind of fun to think about what those of you would do, who don't connect to your ladders....

Thinking about the results if Ollie wasn't... 

at the time the rock exploded, he was not holding onto anything.

so the ladder he's standing on falls to the ground and the one he just placed stays hooked on its own high above him. (maybe the Alfifi will catch the lower one?)

hopefully you can reach the top ladder after jugging back up, but if not, i guess you just make some sling ladders to get back to the high point right? 

and continue to use a sling ladder with your other one for the rest of the wall? 

probably good to keep an extra in the bag if you know your going daisy-less. 

i'm suppose to be working right now... 

As someone who aids daisy-less for the most part:
1. Climb with a spare in your haul bag
2. Don't rope-solo daisy-less

3. daisy with whatever you've got handy when doing moves where there is high risk to both aiders.

Isaac Leija · · Salinas, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 35
Malcolm Jarvis wrote:

3. daisy with whatever you've got handy when doing moves where there is high risk to both aiders.

thanks Malcolm

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

I've got a Fish hook and that thing is pretty darn burly. Does anyone know if he is making those anymore?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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