Sugarloaf Closure

12/2/24

Please do not climb West Chimney or TM's Deviation as there are Perigrine Falcons nesting. 

We'll (CRAGS) be posting signage this week FYI and coordinating with Eldorado NF. 

Does anyone know why the nesting/closure period for falcons in Yosemite is so different from areas like Sugarloaf or the Leap? They don't start until March in Yosemite. 

Falcon closures and seasonality are coincident in Yosemite and the Leap - starting slightly later at the Leap (April/May at the Leap vs March in Yosemite) and thus ending slightly later after they fledge (July vs Aug). Winter is courtship season; spring nesting/incubation; late spring fledging; summer flying.  

Sugarloaf Falcon activity seems to be mostly 'overwintering' (falcon migration is widely variable and some stay local) where they're establishing territory and finding mates - in short, it's courtship season at the Loaf and Falcons have been actively defensive of their one site at Sugarloaf over the last two, now three, seasons. Their activity has been limited to the routes that Aidan notes above and we haven't had any reports of issues as long as those routes have been avoided. 

I shouldn’t have said nesting as I’ve no idea if they have a nest there currently. But they are coming and going into the area where the nest was last season.

Yes, I saw a falcon right in that area today. It screamed and chased off a bald eagle, then flew back to the top of a pillar exactly in the spot Aidan talked about. I hadn’t seen that interaction before, it was pretty cool.

Colonel, 

they are both cantankerous and antisocial creatures.

FYI all reports suggest that Falcons have moved on from defending this site for the time being. Stay tuned for additional information. 

Hi all - forced to resurrect this thread because falcons are back and are nesting in this location at Sugarloaf. 

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Summer 2025 Falcon Closures are posted for Sugarloaf. 

Falcons are nesting on West Chimney / TM's Deviation.  

Please avoid these routes. Reports suggest ascents of Pony Express are tolerated, however please let us know if there are any updates or concerns as the season progresses. 

Falcons will protect the nests, so please respect their space and the closures by keeping your distance. 

Please note that drones should not be used at Sugarloaf because they disturb falcons. 

Thanks again to Aidan for posting this earlier this winter.

Through a collaborative monitoring process CRAGS and Lover's Leap Guides has worked with the Forest Service to help make sure that falcons are monitored and that closures respect the actual location and timing of nesting. This helps us limit the extent to which blanket closures affect climbing. Having a respectful dialog and taking an approach informed by the behavioral ecology of the birds has helped build trust in this annual process. 

Please let us know if you have any questions. You can always report an issue to CRAGS or Lover's Leap Guides via email or use the form on the CRAGS website.

Thanks and enjoy the weekend. 

PS will cross post this to area pages and this will appear on social and email going out shortly.