Did Someone add a bolt(s) to Book of Hate?

Photo of Amity on Book of Hate last fall-no bolt at upper crux.

Next person/people to send and publicly document the route with photos are Sasha Digulian and Lara Neumeier. Both of them clipped the new bolt based on media they put out on instagram.

Have I personally sent the route without clipping the bolt? -no

Do we know if Sasha or her crew added the bolt? -no

Regardless of if she added it or not, she used the bolt and the send of the route to ultimately gain media attention and get paid and didn’t even mention this new bolt that happened to appear right in time for her fall valley season! How convenient.

Do professional sponsored athletes have responsibility to uphold ethics and chop the bolt before spraying about their send? IMO-yes especially when this route has been climbed many times without the new bolt and gear has come so far since the first ascent.

Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk.

Edit: Not revealing my name for obvious reasons, not sure why everyone is so hung up on this. Pretty standard for internet forums. 

Edit 2: Sasha came forward and was pretty clear that it wasn't her who added the bolts so I guess case is closed. Based on the discourse on this forum I have also changed my mind and would agree that it would be a bad idea for Sasha to have chopped the bolt herself but still firmly believe it she should have mentioned it initially as a way of respecting the FA and other ascensionist who climbed the route without the bolt. I guess it ended up being rather inconvenient for her...

Sorry Sasha!

People can change 

IDK, ask her. Everyone has an IG in this day and age. Pros are also regular joes.

Desert Rock Sportswrote:

IDK, ask her. Everyone has an IG in this day and age. Pros are also regular joes.

Well it certainly wouldn’t look good for her image to blatantly tell everyone she added a bolt so doubt she would answer honestly.

You just straight up don’t like her media presence yet can’t stop looking at it? I don’t know, it sounds like a you problem.

I asked on her Instagram and it looks like she edited her post and she seemed convincing enough that she didn’t add them. Makes sense she wouldn’t chop them either to avoid further controversy. 

We should cancel her

I know we're getting into winter but maybe you can pick up knitting as a hobby instead of trolling pro female athletes.

Warme’s send is amazing.  In the photographed area, she placed two pieces and then struggled mightily to stay on.  The bolt eases that sequence: clipping a draw is easier than placing and clipping pro twice.  

Quibbling about the OP’s assertion that Digulian has history of placing or using new bolts is fair.  But  one cannot  say Digulian or Neumeier accomplished what Warme did.

The style of climbing in Yosemite is essential to the game for professionals and the community that aspires to and applauds their achievements.  

Warme’s ascent was badass, the footage was sick. I don’t think anybody contends it’s not better style, not even the other women in question. The contention seems to be that their social media presence irks some folks, or at least keeps them entertained with expressing their own deep indignation at not having a climbing girlfriend who climbs like really hard or whatever.

Probably could have just started with “Did someone add bolts to Book of Hate?” 

I can’t believe anyone would care about this. I already don’t care what pro climbers do, let alone the minutiae on display here. Does this have literally any effect on my climbing? Or your climbing? Nope.

Meanwhile, in Gaza . . 

Anyone notice when people are anti-climbing influencer they seem to spend an inordinate amount of time studying those climbers?   so weird. 

Colonel Mustardwrote:

Warme’s ascent was badass, the footage was sick. I don’t think anybody contends it’s not better style, not even the other women in question. The contention seems to be that their social media presence irks some folks, or at least keeps them entertained with expressing their own deep indignation at not having a climbing girlfriend who climbs like really hard or whatever.

The contention is a professional climber adding and/or using bolts on a classic route that has been climbed multiple times without the new bolt.

Think you are missing the point of the post a little bit with all the social media stuff you keep bringing up 

Tony Danzawrote:

I can’t believe anyone would care about this. I already don’t care what pro climbers do, let alone the minutiae on display here. Does this have literally any effect on my climbing? Or your climbing? Nope.

Potentially does if we try the route in the future now that it is somewhat more “accessible”

You created an account just for this? Seriously?     

I got bored by all the words but that pic of Sasha is fantastic.

Bird Pers0nwrote:

Potentially does if we try the route in the future now that it is somewhat more “accessible”

Look "bird pers0n", if you ever get on that route, how about not clipping that bolt? Who the fuck cares what any pro climber/influencer does? Or if it bothers you that much, go up there & chop it off so you can show everyone how big your balls are. Although i don't know how courageous you actually are because you created an account specifically to flame someone. You don't even have the guts to call her out on your personal account? 

You're claiming superior climbing/bolting ethics but all you're doing is trolling. If that's your purpose, good job. You got people to respond, mission accomplished.

Chill the fuck out, go out & climb.

Live Perchedwrote:

Warme’s send is amazing.  In the photographed area, she placed two pieces and then struggled mightily to stay on.  The bolt eases that sequence: clipping a draw is easier than placing and clipping pro twice.  

The style of climbing in Yosemite is essential to the game for professionals and the community that aspires to and applauds their achievements.  

So if clipping the bolt eases that sequence then the route should be 13a. Regardless of the grade or that route or most any route, adding a bolt to a route was first done 25 years ago is lame.

If anybody else was curious about if there used to be a pin, I checked the FA video (starting around 10:50) and didn't see one. He nests ~4 pieces instead.

Starting a new account for this and speculatively calling out Sasha is super lame. Not just lame, weird. Kind of gross. I appreciate that the title has been changed at least.

Adding the bolt(s)—apparently there are at least 2 new bolts on the route—was also lame. Whoever did it, without the input of the FA, did something disrespectful.

There’s actually a lively discussion taking place about this on Insta in a post by FA Randy Leavitt and FFA Beth Rodden. Based on the conversation there, I do not believe those bolts are long for this world.