How to find motivation to boulder for training for trad
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My main interest is climbing trad outdoor and, in the off-season, I find myself struggling with keeping up climbing in the gym for training, as I don't have much motivation and interest in climbing indoor. However, I do realize that bouldering pays dividends in terms of improving climbing technique and strength even for trad. Any suggestion on how to find motivation to do that? The few sessions I tried, I got bored after the first two problems... |
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Treat it as training… training isn’t always fun! Like lifting weights or getting cardio work in. I like to go in and do a 4x4 to warm up, then project a handful of routes until I start to feel tired, then hop over to the kilter board and get some work in. It pays dividends if you’re trying to progress and break out of a plateau.. I also love finding a solid partner who’s also trying to train and getting in ARC sessions by taking turns doing 15-20 minute laps. It helps to have someone else who’s psyched to encourage you and push you! I’m mostly into trad, and I definitely Boulder once a week at the gym and it’s helped. And I need plenty of friends to come hang and push me along the way! |
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Same boat over here (primarily a trad climber). Thankfully I can climb year-round due to where I live but I've been making more of an effort to boulder once a week to complement my weekday gym climbing and weekend trad stuff. What has helped me is to put structure to my bouldering sessions and going in with a plan. I purposefully go when the gym is less crowded and I organize my sessions by doing a handful of 4x4s, where each new set of 4 is increasingly harder than the last. For example, the first one might be V2-V2-V1-V1, and then by the end I ramp up to V4-V4-V3-V2 (i'm terrible at bouldering). After a handful of those, I project a problem for awhile until I hopefully can send it. Like Ryan said, training isn't always fun but I personally find it easier to maintain discipline and get myself to the gym to boulder by having a routine and a plan for my sessions. Try looking up some bouldering workouts and give some a try. See how you feel about the session when you've got a plan to follow. You might find that bouldering becomes more enjoyable that way, that's been my experience with it. Edit: 4x4 explanation - in case you're not familiar with them |
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Use that boredom to lead you to find something interesting about climbing inside.There is joy and pleasure in movement alone and one day you won't be able to move the way you can now, enjoy it for the time being. I like to project a problem or two after a lengthy warm up off the wall and on the wall. During the warm up really focusing on how it feels to warm up ( feels nice) and take time to stretch and work on my handstand. Then over a few sessions I enjoy the experience of not being able to do something, feel like soon I might be able to, then doing it. With all the benefits of developing my body, my skill and spending time with others, I really enjoy the gym. |
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If there is a spray wall, try setting your own problems. It's really fun for me to try to set my own. There are apps you can use, or just take a picture on your phone and color the holds to use so you can remember. Another one: pick a problem a couple grades below what you can do, and mentally take away one hold at a time while still sending. See how many you can remove and still do the problem. You'll have to get more creative with beta as you go. Try a V-grades point day. Give yourself a limit of 5-10 boulders, and try to get as many V-points as possible (4 for V4, 3 for V3, etc.) It becomes a fun cerebral challenge to see if you can allot your energy well (i.e not blast all your energy on a boulder that is too tough) The key is variety. When you get bored with one trick, try another. |
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Just start bouldering regularly, it becomes fun as you start to see progress and are able to float thru moves that you couldn't imagine pulling before. If you have access to real rock, I find outdoor bouldering much more mentally stimulating than indoor. |
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M K Robertson wrote: It may not come. BITD I was (politely) referred to as a "mere boulderer". It was not a popular activity. Some climbers, perhaps many climbers, can never cultivate a meaningful connection with small rocks. I did because I saw it as an extension of gymnastics. |
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Climb high-ball crack boulders. Get a little scared. Pick outdoor locations that feel out there. Make it an adventure and get on top of stuff. And take big falls! |