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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #31
M Mwrote: No , from 2016. It's a shot off a desktop screensaver I took with an Amazon Fire which I am using at this moment. my belayer was from Cambodia so I expect that's where he purchased his shoes. He was a decent climber but had a tendency to get off-route often.Nice guy. In fact that very day he got off route on p3. I must've told him a dozen times to go left at the top of the corner-- he kept going straight which put him desperately run out on face verging on nearly 10a. He was looking at a 20 foot whipper, at least.We were out of sight of one another so I couldn't correct him and then the wind started kicking up which made verbal communication nearly impossible. That same wind dropped temps about 10 degrees and clouds obscured the sun. We were suddenly in a doom -loop. Good times. Lol
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Li Huwrote: Can you explain this post please? I've been told my reading comprehension sucks by too many, all the way back to wreck.climbing. So pardon my lack of reading skills, but help a fellow climber out. |
x15x15wrote: The answer to Donald’s question is, yes, you can use the three rappel stations down the left side of Lost Horse Wall. But unless you actually climb the left side of the wall, it’ll be easier just to scramble down the right and walk through the rocks out to the road. I’ve done it a few times. If you’ve not been there and done it, it’s difficult to explain but easy to understand by doing it. |
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Li Hu - That won't get you to Rock Garden Valley, which is what Donald was asking about. |
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I always just walk up through the maze like boulders… takes about 15-20 minutes. And Yes it may be in the shade this time of year and cold. But I really prefer to do my Josh climbing in long pants and shirts. A long alpine scramble along that ridge is an interesting proposition. |
Brandt Allenwrote: Sorry, I assumed the gardens of rocks below the face was that. My bad. |
Donald Thompsonwrote: Funny…as I’ve been reviewing the various projected cabinet positions, I’ve felt exactly the same way… |
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Bit of bouldering. So funny. It took me about five attempts to commit to the last move. It was quite easy really but the last two holds weren’t that great and the last hold seemed to far away. I’m always wary of falling from the top with my bad knees. https://youtube.com/shorts/gSzBtpUE3OE?si=gILqGMTgze5KRsHT
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TipWdwnbWyI The motorbike song by Amyl and the Sniffers. For Carl. Nothing like some Australian punk in the morning. Been having a beautiful dry fall in the Northeast so I’ve been able to climb when I’m not working |
Carl Schneiderwrote: Nice send! Always protect those knees! If you start work on system boards, it’ll protect them better. You only drop 3-4 feet from the top. Attempted a V4 on the Touchstone board. Getting used to turning my body to reduce the forces on the fingers. 
 Now that my fingers are getting stronger, I can make proper attempts on a 35 degree overhanging board to build finger strength and body tension. I’ll move on to the Tension board and Moon boards after I send V5 on Touchstone. V5 seem nearly doable on the boards. Close to V6 in the general gym. |
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During the summer, I posted a picture of this cave (sorta) that I visited regularly. It was just a cool rest spot when weather got hot, but it also has some beautiful rocks.   So my question was could it be climbed? It can!    Stemming and climbing chimneys is fairly new for me and it’s taking a minute for my body to adjust. Turns out Bob is an expert chimney climber, of course, so it’s very cool watching him sail on up this formation leaving little chalk marks along the way so I can go and do likewise. (OK not exactly likewise.) I think I understand the basic mechanics of climbing the first 2/3 of this rock but I still need to link it up. I also need to figure out why I get so nauseous lately every time climbing gets interesting. Above these rocks is steep slab and my only concern there is arriving fresh enough to have the energy to power up the rest of the route. I’m feeling cocky and full of myself for having tried something new— and it looks like there’s a chance of success. I could have sworn after my first attempt last week that this was completely out of the question, way over my head. Also, every body part is screaming this morning. I’d say two more good days out and I can send this route. PS. One more thought. I’ve come to think of steep slab climbing.(like Dirty Tricks) as Jedi magic and that’s what I really want to continue learning. But there’s nothing Jedi about chimney climbing. It’s all muscle and brawn. This is for you macho dudes – – definitely not very ladylike. |
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That's inspiring Lori!. I wish I had Joshua Tree in my neighborhood. Except for the tweakers and the wind. |
apogeewrote: The positions are being filled somewhat randomly. Guessing thanks to Trump/Biden/Trump the United States may be on a quick downward spiral. The world where USA manufactured everything and invented most everything is over, and I don’t think isolation and pushing society backwards into the 1950s mentality is going to help? BRICS will happen, and the fact that the United States voted for a person with random tendencies filling his cabinet with War Hawks isn’t a good sign of things to come.
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Li Huwrote: The gym has a board, nota Moon board or whatever but overhanging. They have set circuits on it. So I’ve been doing circuits on that too. Plus some weights, pull downs, triceps extensions etc |
J Westgatewrote: Cool! |
Carl Schneiderwrote: Boards are a complete training tool. They build body tension as well as finger strength. I do weighted hangs on a fingerboard for strength. |
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Cool story. I think I remember that- but that went on allot. Might have been Fish. ………………………………………………………,
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Guy Keeseewrote:
Yes I find it all legs and stemming. Personally, real chimneys, where you are inside fully, I find to be the least amount of effort of any type of climbing. It’s the protection that’s sometimes the difficult part |
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and then there are squeeze chimneys... Last time I got in one of them my harness fell off.... |
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Thinking a little more about my route... I would post a pic of Bob here, but hate to broach his privacy. The chimney part was not too hard. But when I looked up and saw Bob with one leg attached to the left wall, and the right leg in a dead split on the right wall, arms spread out on each wall... and he said "just do this"... THAT'S NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. How are you not afraid of ripping a groin? Or a hamstring? Maybe I'm more cautious. Maybe I need to stretch a little more beforehand. It all turned out ok but I was VERY tentative with that wide stemming. |
