New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #31

Brandt Allen wrote:

Wouldn't a combination of no hangs and max hangs just be max hangs?

Different days 

Todd Berlier wrote:

I hemmed and hawed over these two bolts for 3 years! 

Last Monday I drove my new to me Honda HRV to place these bolts and the dirt road was wet and there was a spot I may have gotten stuck, so I turned around. On the drive out I saw two cars parked near a small cliff. I often had seen cars here and I would stop, get out, look around and listen. This time I heard voices, so I started walking toward them. Found a very well built trail up to the base to find 3 folks climbing! One of them turned out to be a fellow MP user that I've had I think thoughtful exchanges. 

How random and cool is that?

I think we'll end up exchanging finds that we don't have interest in: boulders from him and cliff from me.

Anyway, I took the road being out as a sign those bolts don't belong. I mean I bought and brought 150 feet of static line to tie off trees and trusted that the friction between the rock and the rope would keep my TR setup stable in a 2 foot wide top out, so others can do the same. Plus, I'm a wimp others can just boulder the thing without rehearsal as the top 15 of 30+ feet are maybe V2. The bottom 15 to 18 are v7 and another problems bottom is V10/11 (I didn't do that one).

I couldn't let it go tho. I texted the guy that fa'ed the hard line and he was all for it. Finally, decided to do it. Since the road got worse in a week from a light snow, I walked 3.5 miles to the boulder, 1.25 of which are mandatory when you can drive as close as possible. I got all set up and held the drill in place for 30 seconds thinking once I start that's it, no going back.

I get this is overly dramatic for a lot of you folks that have placed a lot of bolts, but I'm not one of those people. It's a weird emotion for me placing a bolt and those were just the 5th and 6th bolts I've ever placed. Something about it is weird for me. I don't care a bit what others will think of the bolts. I do care that others get to safely climb the problems.

I don’t think it’s overly dramatic at all. I’ve never drilled a bolt hole in rock and probably never will. It’s certainly a big act. A bit like cirumcision. There’s no going back. Not only that. You’re inviting everyone for their critique.

I’ve assisted once in bolt placement and THAT route got chopped! So bad experience there I guess.

However, I’m not feeling 100% in to the idea of bolting bouldering problems for practice unless they can also be climbed as a route. Then again, why not? It’s as valid as anchors on a route. 

Well, everyone in my family is celebrating a Trump victory. Personally, wait and see?  

I climbed in HK and plan upon B-Pump. Changing to the bigger and nicer gym in Akihabara cause I’m not quite good enough to really “Ogikubo”…

May be forced into semi-retirement? My company is not doing so well…

Li Hu wrote:

Well, everyone in my family is celebrating a Trump victory. Personally, wait and see?  

Meanwhile, all this distance away down here in good old South Australia, my family is saying:

. What the fuck?

. What are they doing?

. I don’t understand them.

Surely the microphone thing would have made peeps say ‘Umm, I mean, I know you’re just one of the boys and all but there IS a thing called dignity’. 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Meanwhile, all this distance away down here in good old South Australia, my family is saying:

. What the fuck?

. What are they doing?

. I don’t understand them.

Surely the microphone thing would have made peeps say ‘Umm, I mean, I know you’re just one of the boys and all but there IS a thing called dignity’. 

Carl, it’s comforting to know that we have some sympathy from South Australia.   But after the jolt of last night’s election, I think the message is so clear and unequivocal that we have to stop and pay attention. I was listening to two of my favorite journalists this morning, Chris Matthews, and Mike Barnacle, they just laid it out in a way that at least I could grasp. We got too woke. We ignored some obvious issues like the border. And we kept yammering on about how great our economy is when the price of eggs and cheese has skyrocketed and your ordinary person cannot afford groceries or gas. Nick’s comment a few pages ago about character will always stay with me because he summed up in my thoughts in one sentence. But America is worried less about Donald‘s character and more about covering basic human needs and restoring some fairness.

—-

I wasn’t going to say anything about Tony but this has been a really rough two weeks. I know I mentioned that the aneurysm surgery totally went sideways and Tony almost bled to death.  They sent him home just two days later with massive bruises and welts head to toe. I couldn’t believe they were discharging him so soon. Once he got home, he got into much worse pain and his leg became even more swollen – – I sent pictures to his surgeon who said that’s normal nothing to worry about. So Tony continued to take all the Norco he could handle and stayed in bed. Finally, yesterday I called an ambulance and he was taken to our local hospital and a very alarmed doctor did a total work up, determined that his entire leg had abscessed. He was taken by ambulance down to Eisenhower last night, it sounds like they’re on it now.  
I am kicking myself that I didn’t listen to my own intuition and insist upon him getting back to the ER a week ago. I feel like I really let him down.

The upside is, our local hospital has the worst reputation and a terrible rap for being unqualified. But having sat there for many hours, I was so impressed. They got him right into the ER, two very skilled RNs assessed him and we’re on the job instantly. I really appreciated how kind and gentle they were. A doctor was in within minutes and she did a total assessment and he got an ultrasound and a CAT scan and a ton of lab work. She didn’t hesitate to say that there had been negligence in his treatment, but , she had him on 3 powerful IV antibiotics within a half an hour and made all the connections to get him transported and into the hands of the right doctors.  I am very proud of our little rural hospital and would not hesitate to go if I needed help.   

Todd Berlier wrote:

I hemmed and hawed over these two bolts for 3 years! 

Last Monday I drove my new to me Honda HRV to place these bolts and the dirt road was wet and there was a spot I may have gotten stuck, so I turned around. On the drive out I saw two cars parked near a small cliff. I often had seen cars here and I would stop, get out, look around and listen. This time I heard voices, so I started walking toward them. Found a very well built trail up to the base to find 3 folks climbing! One of them turned out to be a fellow MP user that I've had I think thoughtful exchanges. 

How random and cool is that?

I think we'll end up exchanging finds that we don't have interest in: boulders from him and cliff from me.

Anyway, I took the road being out as a sign those bolts don't belong. I mean I bought and brought 150 feet of static line to tie off trees and trusted that the friction between the rock and the rope would keep my TR setup stable in a 2 foot wide top out, so others can do the same. Plus, I'm a wimp others can just boulder the thing without rehearsal as the top 15 of 30+ feet are maybe V2. The bottom 15 to 18 are v7 and another problems bottom is V10/11 (I didn't do that one).

I couldn't let it go tho. I texted the guy that fa'ed the hard line and he was all for it. Finally, decided to do it. Since the road got worse in a week from a light snow, I walked 3.5 miles to the boulder, 1.25 of which are mandatory when you can drive as close as possible. I got all set up and held the drill in place for 30 seconds thinking once I start that's it, no going back.

I get this is overly dramatic for a lot of you folks that have placed a lot of bolts, but I'm not one of those people. It's a weird emotion for me placing a bolt and those were just the 5th and 6th bolts I've ever placed. Something about it is weird for me. I don't care a bit what others will think of the bolts. I do care that others get to safely climb the problems.

I like your style on the bolts, it is a style everyone with a drill should consider, especially the younger folks who have a new tool and FA fever. I personally do care what others think, I don't want to be the jackass who goes down in history as the one who drilled willy-nilly, I've seen that too many times. 

"America is worried less about Donald‘s character and more about covering basic human needs and restoring some fairness." Stay tuned to see how that goes.  

Disappointed and sad? Absolutely. This only confirms the downward spiral of optimism I’ve had in American culture and intelligence as the years have gone on.

Surprised? Not at all. Every indicator showed this was a real possibility, and Harris was not a great candidate in many respects. We’ve been immersed in this bullshit for over ten years…it’s not at all surprising a substantial part of the electorate remains as stoooopid as they’ve ever been.

Democracy worked as intended, we got what we deserve, and will get what we voted for.

Exit polls showed that inflation, now close to the Fed target of 2%, and corresponding cost of living was the dominant issue with the electorate.

Somehow, cutting corporate taxes and across-the-board tariffs will lower inflation and prices of goods. It’ll be “entertaining.”

Lori - I hope Tony improves. I always wondered why hospitals want to ship you out ASAP after surgery, I mean isn’t it best to stay awhile and verify that you are getting better?
I had to be rushed back to the E-Room when clear fluid started flowing, in copious quantities, from the wound in my back. Oh well Doctors know best.

And that little hospital in JT knows how to treat 3rd degree road rash and broken ankles really well.

One time I carried my partner into the ER - he took about a 60 footer and would have decked if I had not jumped off of the belay ledge down to the desert floor, arresting his flight. Anyway I carried his ass to the car and got to do some really fast driving, SAAB 900 Turbo, getting him rushed to ER. I thought he was going to die, being unconscious and all. You can imagine my surprise, relief, when after about 2 hours Jim walks out and announced “I need a drink. Let’s go to Arturo’s for dinner” 

Todd …. To bolt or not to be?
There are some young men I know, who I have the utmost respect for who “only” boulder. They have a saying…. Something like this: “if you use a rope you’re not bouldering” and “if you climbed it with a rope first, then you’re free soloing” 

Personally I DGAF - just don’t kill yourself and have fun.
Nick - that boy I worry about…”3 pitch” boulder problem??!!

later… right now, a Santa Anna is aimed directly at my house. The power is out, the walls are shaking, trees are down. We will survive. 

Lori, I hope Tony gets better. Remain positive. 

Lori Milas wrote:

I wasn’t going to say anything about Tony but this has been a really rough two weeks. I know I mentioned that the aneurysm surgery totally went sideways and Tony almost bled to death.  They sent him home just two days later with massive bruises and welts head to toe. I couldn’t believe they were discharging him so soon. Once he got home, he got into much worse pain and his leg became even more swollen – – I sent pictures to his surgeon who said that’s normal nothing to worry about. So Tony continued to take all the Norco he could handle and stayed in bed. Finally, yesterday I called an ambulance and he was taken to our local hospital and a very alarmed doctor did a total work up, determined that his entire leg had abscessed. He was taken by ambulance down to Eisenhower last night, it sounds like they’re on it now.  
I am kicking myself that I didn’t listen to my own intuition and insist upon him getting back to the ER a week ago. I feel like I really let him down.

The upside is, our local hospital has the worst reputation and a terrible rap for being unqualified. But having sat there for many hours, I was so impressed. They got him right into the ER, two very skilled RNs assessed him and were on the job instantly. I really appreciated how kind and gentle they were. A doctor was in within minutes and she did a total assessment and he got an ultrasound and a CAT scan and a ton of lab work. She didn’t hesitate to say that there had been negligence in his treatment, but , she had him on 3 powerful IV antibiotics within a half an hour and made all the connections to get him transported and into the hands of the right doctors.  I am very proud of our little rural hospital and would not hesitate to go if I needed help.   

He’s being treated, you likely saved his life and leg. The doctor who had said ”nothing to worry” should be held responsible for Tony’s recovery.

Hope he recovers fully. Wishing you well!

Very glad that you acted in time Lori. Hope he now is on the road to recovery. Sounds like there were multiple problems with both the surgery and aftermath. Medical malpractice suits can be difficult, but definitely sounds like something you should pursue. Tony is a tough guy. He'll pull through, especially with your support.

Non politics non climbing non training non nutrition Vegas trip report day 1: I haven't been to Las Vegas as a tourist in ages, but one of my besties and I decided to meet there for a couple days of fun.  The day I drove out I stopped at Wally World, and it was a trip!  That night I decided to take myself out to dinner.  I usually just get takeout from the Whole Foods but I decided to go to the the Yard House, which I thought would be quiet at 5 PM on a weekday.  I forgot the World Series was going on.  But it was fun and I had a good glass of rose and a mediocre fish taco. After dinner I walked around Town Square, which was also a trip! Minigolf with drinking, a place to smash things, and a huge country music bar were some of the attractions.

Thank you all.  Tony just got out of surgery and the doctor called me. I’ve been sitting in the hospital, waiting for him to finish up. I think the thing that’s getting to me is just a fatigue I’ve never seen and a kind of vacancy in his eyes. He’s tired.  

I normally wouldn’t think about medical malpractice, but I’m thinking about it now. I thought I would ask the hospital for the OP report and hospital reports while I consider what to do.  

The real sadness, if he comes through all this, is that he will probably never get those hip  replacements and that means staying behind while I go do my thing. We’ve never had a time in our relationship where we could both just go play together and he wanted to make that happen. 

—-

Guy, I’m beginning to see why you and Jan are such good friends.  You guys wouldn’t take me anywhere because I would be terrified in a car with you. I obey all traffic laws! I know that Jan, like Tony, likes to pull G force going down the grade to Palm Springs.  IS THERE A FIRE?   

Who told the last similar story? Was it Kris when he got stung by a bee or messed around in the blue flowers?   Someone drove at warp speed to get to a hospital.

3300 Yen

Same day basically the same meal, lunch and dinner.

High grade but the least ext place to get Wagyu beef versus a self serve shop.

Sashimi at another local place: 11,700 Yen for 5 people. We had about 10 sets of dishes as below.

Lori, I hope Tony recovers well! I thought food could take everybody’s minds off the sad stuff.

Such a Stange country we live in right now. No one said a single thing about the election at work today. 

Li Hu wrote:

3300 Yen

370 Yen

Same day basically the same meal, lunch and dinner.

High grade but the least ext place to get Wagyu beef versus a self serve shop.

Sashimi at another local place: 11,700 Yen for 5 people. We had about 10 sets of dishes as below.

Lori, I hope Tony recovers well! I thought food could take everybody’s minds off the sad stuff.

What are these dishes?  Is that cantaloupe at the top, some kind of soybean, and a great looking bok choy or broccolini?  

I was stuck with In-N-Out today.  VERY hard to find veggies, rice and light protein.  Pretty sad what is served up here in the hospital both to patients and visitors in the cafeteria.  Glad you’re enjoying fine dining!  Phylp’s meal sounds great too.  

How long are you there? 

Lori Milas wrote:

What are these dishes?  Is that cantaloupe at the top, some kind of soybean, and a great looking bok choy or broccolini?  

Wagyu beef on rice, but I’d forgotten to take the lid off prior to taking the picture.

It’s a Japanese version of the same.

I was stuck with In-N-Out today.  VERY hard to find veggies, rice and light protein.  Pretty sad what is served up here in the hospital both to patients and visitors in the cafeteria.  Glad you’re enjoying fine dining!  Phylp’s meal sounds great too.  

Yeah, Phylp’s meals always look good.

I vote we put up food here, then climbing and other related stuff. We need to get our priorities straight   

How long are you there? 

Another week.

My son and I are planning B-Pump after lunch.

Okikubo-V2

https://youtube.com/shorts/GYHQ2K32eV4?feature=shared

Not my limit at V2-ish, and feels like V3 at my home gym. V5 feels like V6 at my home gym. If I had days to work them, probably can pull 3Q or 4Q. They are really difficult and slick.