The ultimate kit thread

Grant Kleeveswrote:

no idea why anyone would use all, or even mostly steel screws at this point, I have a mix of Petzl and Blue ice screws, maybe a Blue Ice steel in 13 and 16, other than that all aluminum

Soft bottles of whatever description are far better than nalgenes for cold weather use.

I’ve used petzl and blue ice aluminum, which people say are the better aluminum screws, but I still had issues, in certain conditions, with binding. So Ive mostly switched back to steel screws, especially blue ice steel which are almost as light.

Also soft flasks / drinking icy water are not ideal. Thermos  or insulated Nalgene (one for soup one for water) work best for me

I still carry a couple of screamers, I have read the data and in my mind know that with enough rope out they tend to be a moot point -rope stretch vs screamer ripping.  I think psychologically, for me I’ll keep a couple around.  Years ago, I took a 60’ fall onto a stubby (10cm) screw in a basketball size piece of ice plastered to the rock with a screamer, I fully deployed the screamer. Pulled all the pieces above this screw and ended upside down looking my belayer in the eyes.  I was on double 8.1 mm ropes.  I don’t know if the ropes would have caught my fall by themselves, but I’m glad that screamer was there.  So maybe I carry a couple for sentimental reasons….

The Rab ascendor and Patagonia R1 are really similar 

I jump back and forth with the alpine draws vs all regular draws debate. So far for what I climb the mix I carry works well for me.

I always have a knife in my pocket so no need for an extra.  

For me a mix of screws is still the best as far as aluminum vs steel. I’ve had aluminum bind really bad even the Blue Ice. So carrying a mix, for me is the way to go.

I’m getting old and fat so maybe the gulleys just seem too thin for me.  Personal preference.  I really like the 8.1mm ice line from Beal for doubles.  These ropes also make 2 followers tied into an individual rope feel a little more warm and fuzzy inside.  The Beal joker 9.1mm just seems to be the sweet spot for me as well. I know there are lighter ropes out there, but if we go climbing I’ll offer to carry the ropes.
I climb a lot with my wife and our boys so I tend to lean a little more conservatively on my rack .

This thread has been awesome!  It is always good to get other people’s takes on what their kit is made up of .  30+ years of climbing ice- sometimes I get a little set in my ways. So having others input is always good.  Besides the fact that I am a gear whore and love the shiny bits of kit.

Mark Pilatewrote:

...only carry bear spray for the large out of town college groups in jeans and plastic boots that you sometimes encounter 

Jedrzej Jablonskiwrote:

That's interesting. I went to 60:40 ratio of regular quickdraws to alpine. Do you also only have 2 alpine when climbing on a single rope? I'm assuming you link pitches a lot and still no rope drag issues?

There are places / conditions when they bind up quite bad due to higher friction and heat conductivity. Imo steel screws still have their place. 

But why are people still using 16cm screws?? :)

if it's pure ice yeah, no more than 2 alpines, I don't tend to place a lot of screws and I'm careful to place them where it keeps drag to a minimum, mixed is different as the pro is where you find it, I might bring up to 50:50 alpines/quickdraws in those cases...

for sure, there are places/conditions where steel are better, but in CO/WY I can't think of more than maybe a couple days out where aluminum screws were a problem, and I'd still rather deal with a tough to place screw or two rather than packing a rack that weighs twice as much for a 10 mile walk, Blue Ice steels have kinda changed that argument now, but I haven't carried a whole rack of steels since aluminum became available.

I'd 100% agree that in good winter ice 13's are fine for pretty much everything, the hard stuff that we climb in late winter in SW CO tends to be super snicy, shelled, and sunbaked, for that  16's, or even longer seem to get to better quality ice, for pillars in April it's usually a full rack of 16's and maybe even a couple 19's

OK, I'll play. 

Boots: Scarpa Phantom HD (honestly too flexible and cold) or Phantom 6000 (heaver but really nice)

Socks: midweight crew.  If there is a real approach I bring two pairs, and change into dry socks before climbing. 

Baselayer top + bottom: Arcteryx Rho or Motus or something like that...don't remember name.  Synthetic, light to mid-weight.  Fits well, no seam problems, no itchiness.  Again, if there's an approach, I bring two tops, and change into a dry top before climbing. 

Insulating layer bottom: Arcteryx breathable synthic insulating pants.  Again, I foget the name.  They're thin, light, and feel like the lighter Atom products (although that's not the name).  I only use these on really cold days. 

Insulating layer top: Arcteryx Proton from a few years ago (heaver version with bigger hood than Atom) or Patagonia DAS light. I like this layer to be able to fit over my helmet--I hate confusion with some hoods under and others obver the helemt. I may turn one of my old Proton hooded tops into a hooded vest.

Hard shell bottom: Patagonia Snowdrifter bibs with custom sewing work (gaitors removed, tapered legs, full length zippers).  After the approach, these go on.  Bibs are great--they are confortable around the waist and torso, and they help solve the jacket pulling out of harness problem. 

Hardshell top: Patagonia Dual Aspect jacket--the best hardshell I have found for my body. Finally, a jacket that really fts for climbing (for me). 

Gloves: I have many but the favorite for the past few seasons is the Black Diamond mid-weight softshell; fits OK, doesn't get wet too quickly, warm enough, durable, inexpensive, has a clipper things so I don't mess up and bring two lefts or two righrts.  Three or four pairs on ever climb.  No specific belay gloves.  When they get worn from use I patch the holes with silver tape and they become my rappel gloves. 

Neck gaitor and hat: Simple midweght fleece--actually pretty hard to find!

Belay Jacket: Patagonia DAS

Helmet: BD something or other--the lightest helmets usually don't fit my head and/or the headlamp attachment is too annoying to deal with. 

Harness: Arcterys 365.  Not the most comfortable but I like 4 ice clippers and that's hard to find these days.  I really want to try the Trango Horizon.  

Crampons: Petzl Dart.  I climbed on dual points for many years and then switched to monos.  Monos are great. 

Tools: Petzl Nomics.  I climbed on old Nomics for years, then went to X-Dreams (still love that pommel) and now went back to Nomics.  The Hydra has my attention, but I'll only buy after trying. 

Ice screws: All Petzl aluminum.  Mostly 13s and a couple of 16s.  Each partner caries a 22 and an ice screw tool.  I want to add back a few steel in 13 cm for those moments when you really don't want them to stick.

Slings: Mammut dyneema with DMM alpha carabiners.  I bring 1-2 singles and 1-2 doubles on all multipitch climbs. 

Quick daws: DMM dyneema dogbones with DMM Alpha carabiners. 6-10 on multipitch climbs. 

Mixed gear: BD nuts and cams, and somer Metolius microcams if I think I'll need them.  I'm considering a climb this winter where I may need a piton or two or some of those hammer in toothed things. 

Belay stuff: Petzl Reverso, Attache carabiners, Metolis PAS (I have my eye on the new Grivel PAS with the safer sewn final link), Grivel Magic Ring for rappel back up with metal part removed.

Other

-Couple of Edelrid Mission carabiners (22 grams) wrapped with some silver tape to make a "locking" carabiner for bailing

-Precut lengths of cord for V-Threads.  

-Actualy pocket camera, small, durable, easier to use than phone. 

-Two simple pre-paid flip phones, one for me, one for partner, programmed only with emergency numbers.  

Ropes

-Two Petzl Paso guide 7.7 60 meter ropes in different colors...love these ropes.

Single Beal Opera (climbing rope) and a Pur line (tag line).  If I'm using a single rope, I'll switch the reverso for a GriGri for me and my partner.  

Packs: 

I have 4 custom packs in different sizes made to my specifications, long back length, single volume, no lid or pockets, drawstring closure, ski attachment, unique ice tool attachment, two loops for clipping on top.  I hike in with a bigger back and carry the light summit version on a climb.  My belay jacket, extra gloves, food, water, and odds and ends go inside.  

Ditch the PAS and get petzl connect. I think edelride also makes an adjustable teather. 

Why not just clove hitch? Serious question.

@Nick and Nic, 

I have a Connect but I prefer a PAS.  As for the clove hitch, I'm often leading most picthes, and it's easier to have the ropes out of the anchor.

To each their own:) feels like one more thing, to me, but a lot of people love em:) Thanks for sharing your kit list.

Bruno 

Great list, thanks for sharing.  Have you looked at the Grivel Mutant helmet. It fits a little bigger. I have a Camp storm and basically had to pull all the padding out of it to make it fit my head. It works with a hat on- not so much bare headed.  

I'll play: 

Boots: Asolo Eiger XT GV Evo. It's not one of the most popular boots out there but I think more people should try it. It's lighter than the Phantom Tech, warmer than the Gtech, climbs as good as anything out there, and has the best lacing system I've tried. I also have the most recent iteration of the Scarpa Phantom 6k. 

Shells: Patagonia M10 Anorak and Pants.  I wanted to give the new stuff a try this year and move away from the softshell stuff I've been preferring. 

Layers: Mostly Ortovox wool. 240 weight or wool grid fleece or a combo of both. Socks are Darn Tough mountaineering or Lenz electric.

Gloves: Depends on the day, but Hestra Ergo Grip Active or BD Terminators are generally the go to. For wet or snowy conditions I'll use the Showas. 

Pack: Cilogear 30L or 3030 MOB worksacks

Crampons: Petzl Dart, or BD Snaggletooth

Tools: BD Hydra for ice up to WI5 or alpine routes. Xdream for WI5 (or harder if I somehow get on it) and mixed or dry. Beartooth or Kruk picks. 

Rack: Blue Ice aero steel screws, they are light enough and durable enough that I don't see the point in aluminum and potential for problems. Draws with Camp Dyon biners. A couple 60cm slings. 180 or 240cm slings for belays. 

Harness: BD Vision or Blue Ice Choucas Pro

Helmet: BD Vapor (new style)

Ropes: Beal. 8.1 Ice Line doubles or 9.1 Joker single. If weight REALLY matters 8.6 x 60m Opera.

Just about everything on the list is situational though and open to change though depending on the route and conditions. 

Great lists. 

Some boots I really want to try are these:

https://www.fitwellsrl.it/en/prodotto/ice-wings/

Fitwell makes some reall nice mountaineering snowboard boots.  The quality is as good as anything from Scarpa, La Sportiva, and so on, but they are a smaller company and hard to find. 

I've handled these boots...they are light and STIFF.  That's what's got my attention; in size 48 I flex most boots way past the point of comfort.  The Ice Wings have a full carbon sole...if they fit well (see what I did there?) I think they'd be great for long pitches. 

If I can try on a pair I'll report back (I live in Switzerland so it might be possible). 

Grant Kleeveswrote:

for sure, there are places/conditions where steel are better, but in CO/WY I can't think of more than maybe a couple days out where aluminum screws were a problem, and I'd still rather deal with a tough to place screw or two rather than packing a rack that weighs twice as much for a 10 mile walk, Blue Ice steels have kinda changed that argument now, but I haven't carried a whole rack of steels since aluminum became available.

i usually take steel because of binding unless the approach is > 1 hr or so

just to make this concrete, the weight difference for a blue ice aero vs aero lite in the gold size is 25 grams, for 10 screws thats 8.8 oz more to carry. Id hardly call that “a rack that weighs twice as much”.

However, for 10 miles (as you state), ill def take an 8.8 oz savings 

For boots-  I think a lot of people get sucked into either Lasportiva or Scarpa.  Both are great boots, however I think there are so many options out there that you just don’t see in shops in the U.S.  so it’s hard to commit to an unknown. I really like my Lowa boots, they are a bit heavier than my Scarpa but are so much warmer for the same style of boot.  When you’re spending $$$ on footwear it’s hard to throw down on an unknown.  I’ve never seen Nate’s boots and the ones Bruno has listed above look awesome too.  I don’t think any shop in Utah carries anything other than Scarpa and Lasportiva.  I get it, I worked in small shops and even managed an REI for a couple of years.  That is a ton of money to invest in an unknown boot.  If you have unlimited funds there are some amazing climbing boots out there.

Sunny-Dwrote:

For boots-  I think a lot of people get sucked into either Lasportiva or Scarpa.  Both are great boots, however I think there are so many options out there that you just don’t see in shops in the U.S.  so it’s hard to commit to an unknown. I really like my Lowa boots, they are a bit heavier than my Scarpa but are so much warmer for the same style of boot.  When you’re spending $$$ on footwear it’s hard to throw down on an unknown.  I’ve never seen Nate’s boots and the ones Bruno has listed above look awesome too.  I don’t think any shop in Utah carries anything other than Scarpa and Lasportiva.  I get it, I worked in small shops and even managed an REI for a couple of years.  That is a ton of money to invest in an unknown boot.  If you have unlimited funds there are some amazing climbing boots out there.

Honestly I ordered a bajillion dollars of boots from backcountry and returned the ones I didnt want. You can go to their warehouse and do the same. They used to carry some others like Mammut, Arcteryx, and Lowa but havent checked lately

Sunny-Dwrote:

For boots-  I think a lot of people get sucked into either Lasportiva or Scarpa.  Both are great boots, however I think there are so many options out there that you just don’t see in shops in the U.S.  so it’s hard to commit to an unknown. I really like my Lowa boots, they are a bit heavier than my Scarpa but are so much warmer for the same style of boot.  When you’re spending $$$ on footwear it’s hard to throw down on an unknown.  I’ve never seen Nate’s boots and the ones Bruno has listed above look awesome too.  I don’t think any shop in Utah carries anything other than Scarpa and Lasportiva.  I get it, I worked in small shops and even managed an REI for a couple of years.  That is a ton of money to invest in an unknown boot.  If you have unlimited funds there are some amazing climbing boots out there.

FWIW I bought mine from Backcountry in the SLC store. Not sure if they still carry them but they do usually carry brands that other local retailers don’t. 

NateCwrote:

FWIW I bought mine from Backcountry in the SLC store. Not sure if they still carry them but they do usually carry brands that other local retailers don’t. 

I’ll have to check them out. Backcountry definitely has deep enough pockets to carry several brands of boots