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Buck Rio
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Jan 2, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
What is the "correct" way to tape for off-finger sized cracks? I stopped taping for hands/fists decades ago, but lately have been tearing up my fingers on rings/stacks. After you start bleeding, a 5.10 finger crack becomes a greasy 5.11.
I'm sure I could find this on YouTube, but I want more than one opinion.
thanks
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Andy Wiesner
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Jan 2, 2020
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New Paltz, NY
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 35
Pete Whittaker’s new book is in the stores now . . .
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Salamanizer Ski
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Jan 2, 2020
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Off the Grid…
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 20,899
I always felt that any tape on the fingers, especially the knuckles is more of a hindrance than anything.
One or two wraps where you’re bleeding, then let the callouses do the work for the rest.
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shredward
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Jan 2, 2020
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SLC
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 5
I like to tape the first two segments of my first two fingers. In my mind, those two take the most torque when climbing finger cracks and that has always seemed sufficient, rather than taping all 4 fingers. Granted i usually just struggle my way up finger cracks in the creek, maybe the good climbers tape all 4.
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Jialiang Liang
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Oct 13, 2024
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2024
· Points: 0
I actually can't find videos, but found this blogpost from steph davis: https://stephdavis.co/blog/overhanging-rattly-finger-cracks/
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Austin Donisan
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Oct 13, 2024
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San Mateo, CA
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 722
The trick is integrating it into the tape glove. I'm by no means an expert, but for purples/greens this works well for me. 95% of the time just the index finger, but occasionally the middle and/or ring finger.
Starts at 7:10:
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M W
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Oct 28, 2025
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2017
· Points: 100
Bumping this, curious to hear what others are doing - video seems to be gone, and Steph Davis blog does as well….
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Bolting Karen
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Oct 28, 2025
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Denver, CO
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 61
I do single wraps just below the knuckle, a little super glue can lock it in. I think the most important part is to change it out every pitch or it will start rolling. If you need to tape over the knuckle, wrap in the opposite direction of the pull.
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Caleb
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Oct 28, 2025
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Ward, CO
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 270
^That’s what I do. Avoid taping knuckles if possible. Just do a single wrap up to the base of the knuckle. I mostly do index and ring first segment. Sometimes thumb segment and 2nd segment on the power fingers for stacks or tight fingers. Just look where your gobies are. Barely cover that and avoid roll-ups.
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