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Any reason not to add quick link + ring to bare bolts?

Original Post
Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

I climb a lot at a tr only crag, and am wondering if it would be appropriate to add some good quality quick links and rings to the bare bolt hangers on a few routes. Reasons not to? Reasons to? Will I be excommunicated or would that be appreciated? 

Chalk Devourer · · IL · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Probably depends on your local ethic. More hardware could have a larger visual impact.

Also be careful to not put stainless hardware on plated bolts/hangers. It will cause galvanic corrosion.

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77

adding QLs to any anchor I do not think to be a disservice. It only allows more options depending on what you're getting after.

Just make sure to use 2 links or a actual welded link and a QL if you want to provide proper orientation of the links for pulling rope after a rap. That and use at least 5/16 - 8mm. Stainless always at minimum. If the bolts and hangers are plated, they shouldn't be IMO and could replace those while in there to really bang out a home run.

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476

Likely outcome is that they'll get stolen by someone else. If you're okay taking that chance, go for it. 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Matt Nwrote:

Likely outcome is that they'll get stolen by someone else. If you're okay taking that chance, go for it. 

Loktite+wrench would make it hard, no? Also good tip about an extra link for proper orientation. 

Chris Dickson · · Ophir, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 966

I used to climb in MA! Are we talking Hammond Pond? Crow Hill? I personally think that any climb that has a TR-only anchor could and should be equipped for rappeling and pulling the rope. I mean why force people to clean the anchor and walk off? Why not have the option of lowering or rappeling and just pulling the rope? Probably would lead to fewer incidents and accidents in the long run... I think a great setup is just adding two beefy quick links (or a link and a ring) so the orientation of the bottom link is ideal for pulling the rope. Tighten the link with a decent monkey wrench and Loc-tite and no one will steal it.... 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Chris Dicksonwrote:

I used to climb in MA! Are we talking Hammond Pond? Crow Hill? I personally think that any climb that has a TR-only anchor could and should be equipped for rappeling and pulling the rope. I mean why force people to clean the anchor and walk off? Why not have the option of lowering or rappeling and just pulling the rope? Probably would lead to fewer incidents and accidents in the long run... I think a great setup is just adding two beefy quick links (or a link and a ring) so the orientation of the bottom link is ideal for pulling the rope. Tighten the link with a decent monkey wrench and Loc-tite and no one will steal it.... 

rose ledge

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Climbing Weaselwrote:

rose ledge

You need to check with the WMCC.  That land is owned by First Light and Power who have granted access.  They're a very active group and there's probably a reason that there aren't links/rings on the bolts.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170

The only bit of caution I'd add (good idea with the Loctite above) is to make sure you're matching metals to avoid premature corrosion.

Read Januskiewiecz · · Taos, NM · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 385

I think the reason they aren't set up to lower/rappel is you can access the top of all those routes easily. Cleaning and walking off is probably safer and just as fast and keeps the bolts visibility down for other users.

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0
Read Januskiewieczwrote:

I think the reason they aren't set up to lower/rappel is you can access the top of all those routes easily. Cleaning and walking off is probably safer and just as fast and keeps the bolts visibility down for other users.

There are a few routes I had to set up a tree anchor and self belay over the edge to setup; I’m thinking those might be better to have rings on. I’ve seen people pull some super sketchy moves at the top untethered to set up. I’d think it would be better to just pull the rope at the end of a long day then do that, no?

Read Januskiewiecz · · Taos, NM · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 385
Climbing Weaselwrote:

There are a few routes I had to set up a tree anchor and self belay over the edge to setup; I’m thinking those might be better to have rings on. I’ve seen people pull some super sketchy moves at the top untethered to set up. I’d think it would be better to just pull the rope at the end of a long day then do that, no?

Not to be a jerk, but that sounds like a convenience issue. Just because others do something sketchy isn't a great reason, it just shows there is room for some learning. There is risk in both ways of cleaning no matter what and there will always be sketchy ways to do it. I climbed in that area a lot years ago and never found any issue cleaning any of the bolted anchors from above. That doesn't mean updating things is bad, just pointing out that convenience isn't a great reason at least in my book. The minute it takes to secure yourself up top saves on the hardware on the cliff for other users and keeps in line with the trad ethic in that area. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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