Any reason not to add quick link + ring to bare bolts?
|
|
I climb a lot at a tr only crag, and am wondering if it would be appropriate to add some good quality quick links and rings to the bare bolt hangers on a few routes. Reasons not to? Reasons to? Will I be excommunicated or would that be appreciated? |
|
|
Probably depends on your local ethic. More hardware could have a larger visual impact. Also be careful to not put stainless hardware on plated bolts/hangers. It will cause galvanic corrosion. |
|
|
adding QLs to any anchor I do not think to be a disservice. It only allows more options depending on what you're getting after. |
|
|
Likely outcome is that they'll get stolen by someone else. If you're okay taking that chance, go for it. |
|
|
Matt Nwrote: Loktite+wrench would make it hard, no? Also good tip about an extra link for proper orientation. |
|
|
I used to climb in MA! Are we talking Hammond Pond? Crow Hill? I personally think that any climb that has a TR-only anchor could and should be equipped for rappeling and pulling the rope. I mean why force people to clean the anchor and walk off? Why not have the option of lowering or rappeling and just pulling the rope? Probably would lead to fewer incidents and accidents in the long run... I think a great setup is just adding two beefy quick links (or a link and a ring) so the orientation of the bottom link is ideal for pulling the rope. Tighten the link with a decent monkey wrench and Loc-tite and no one will steal it.... |
|
|
Chris Dicksonwrote: rose ledge |
|
|
Climbing Weaselwrote: You need to check with the WMCC. That land is owned by First Light and Power who have granted access. They're a very active group and there's probably a reason that there aren't links/rings on the bolts. |
|
|
The only bit of caution I'd add (good idea with the Loctite above) is to make sure you're matching metals to avoid premature corrosion. |
|
|
I think the reason they aren't set up to lower/rappel is you can access the top of all those routes easily. Cleaning and walking off is probably safer and just as fast and keeps the bolts visibility down for other users. |
|
|
Read Januskiewieczwrote: There are a few routes I had to set up a tree anchor and self belay over the edge to setup; I’m thinking those might be better to have rings on. I’ve seen people pull some super sketchy moves at the top untethered to set up. I’d think it would be better to just pull the rope at the end of a long day then do that, no? |
|
|
Climbing Weaselwrote: Not to be a jerk, but that sounds like a convenience issue. Just because others do something sketchy isn't a great reason, it just shows there is room for some learning. There is risk in both ways of cleaning no matter what and there will always be sketchy ways to do it. I climbed in that area a lot years ago and never found any issue cleaning any of the bolted anchors from above. That doesn't mean updating things is bad, just pointing out that convenience isn't a great reason at least in my book. The minute it takes to secure yourself up top saves on the hardware on the cliff for other users and keeps in line with the trad ethic in that area. |




