Lappas Ti Corkscrew Bolt

Uses sheet instead of rod stock. Could be a good option if pricing is competitive, but it seems to require notching.

https://lappasclimbing.com/product-category/vertical/glue_in/cork-screw-ti/

Interesting.  The "Arrow" bolt is identical to Titan Climbing's Eterna bolt.  Patent violations??  OEM??

"Our Arrow Ti anchor glue-in bolt, has got its name from its shape as it resembles an arrow.  
It is made of Titanium Gr2 with a maximum body diameter of 12mm, designed to fit in a 14mm hole."

John Byrnes wrote:

Interesting.  The "Arrow" bolt is identical to Titan Climbing's Eterna bolt.  Patent violations??  OEM??

"Our Arrow Ti anchor glue-in bolt, has got its name from its shape as it resembles an arrow.  
It is made of Titanium Gr2 with a maximum body diameter of 12mm, designed to fit in a 14mm hole."

It isn't identical and what patent?

Jim Titt wrote:

It isn't identical and what patent?

I didn't say there was a patent.  I asked if there was a possible patent violation.  

It's looks identical, or as identical as Lappas can make it.  Same material, same diameter stock, same length, same shape, same drill size, etc.  Jim, if you know what's different about it, I think we'd all be interested to know.

I did a bit of research and Lappas bought some Eternas awhile ago, and copied it.   International patent law is as strong as a wet paper bag.  It seems unfair that Titan Climbing did all the research, developed a product, took the risk of producing that product only to have some copy-cats steal the fruits as soon as the market was established.

No patent = no patent violation.

That shaft design has been around for many decades, Salewa bolts were made like that and some of the other Euro companies used it including Fixe.

Couple other implementations of this..

There's also the AustriAlpin one and used to be a couple of others, Singing Rock springs to mind. The original design might have been the Salewa which was around in the mid 90's, they supplied the DAV with loads (they were a bit crap because the eye was too small). Most of them were made in Hungary if I remember rightly.

We shall see how the Lappas bolts last, titanium hangers didn't survive well.

What was wrong with TI hangers? The 30 year old Altus ones ive removed in the wild look brand new.

bmdhacks wrote:

What was wrong with TI hangers? The 30 year old Altus ones ive removed in the wild look brand new.

Or both the hanger and the bolt. Titan Climbing decided not to produce titanium wedge bolts and hangers, despite producing one around 8 years ago, because expansion bolts often become loose and repeated retightening will lead to galling. Then the fixing is rooted.

Hownot2 has them now.  316L 80mm are pretty cheap but the TI ones are about average cost.

https://hownot2.com/products/cork-screw-glue-in-bolt?variant=49531640676667

Anyone with some experience with these they would like to share? Mostly interested in the SS models, but install experience with either would be appreciated. Thanks. 

Kevin Stricker wrote:

Anyone with some experience with these they would like to share? Mostly interested in the SS models, but install experience with either would be appreciated. Thanks. 

Hey Kevin, I’ve played with them a bit. Other than the price point, I didn’t love them. They have to be notched somewhat aggressively on both sides. I still have a few (short SS version), and am happy to get you a couple if you want to try them out before buying.

I saw these in the wild for the first time yesterday here in RR. Certainly low impact / low visual. Another small disadvantage is you can't lower (bail) directly off the bolt like you can on round stock glue-ins. Actually maybe that is an advantage, but I really don't need anymore cheap bail QLs (remember ppl - don't bail on QLs, just leave a carabiner).

Anyway, not for me.

Thanks for all the input!