Old ice tools

Hey everyone, I've never ice climbed before and was looking for some advice on my old ice tools.

I'm not looking to lead anything, as this is my first season, and I have some people who will take me top roping/following on WI3 and easier terrain. I have these old tools and was wondering if they'd work. I've sharpened them so that side of things should be ok...

I also got some old DMM icepoint crampons although I am far more confident in those than I am in my tools.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!

If/when you go out with your friends, bring those tools. Use them for the first couple climbs. Then climb with your friends' tools (presumably something made this century). I THINK you'll see a difference.

You'll probably do just fine with those boots and crampons for the first year or so. But by all means, rent some modern leather boots and monopoint crampons at some point.

Agree with the ax advice.  Boots and crampons will work for a few more seasons unless you catch the bug.. (monopoints are over rated, IMHO.)

Good luck.

Those tools will encourage you to learn technique...

The crampons are excellent, though. DMM terminators. 

Those are identical to the tools I learned with. Make sure you have thick gloves. I had more than a few bloody hands. I also used old screws that i needed to leverage in with the pick of the tool. But for WI3 the tools and crampons will get the job done. 

Gunkiemikewrote:

If/when you go out with your friends, bring those tools. Use them for the first couple climbs. Then climb with your friends' tools (presumably something made this century). I THINK you'll see a difference.

You'll probably do just fine with those boots and crampons for the first year or so. But by all means, rent some modern leather boots and monopoint crampons at some point.

haha yeah, these things are pretty antiquated. I did a little bit of research and found out that they are from the mid 80s. The big issue in my situation is money, and I cant be spending $150 on ice tools right now. Ill definitely try out my friends tools, i have a funny feeling itll be just a little bit different lol. My ski boots are pretty stiff, (130s) so ill probably be getting some dedicated boots once I get some more money. I can also turn these old crampons into monopoints if need be, but ive heard two points can be more stable on ice at times. Im sure ill play around with it and find some preference. Thanks for the response!!

Scott Biegertwrote:

Those are identical to the tools I learned with. Make sure you have thick gloves. I had more than a few bloody hands. I also used old screws that i needed to leverage in with the pick of the tool. But for WI3 the tools and crampons will get the job done. 

How did you get bloody hands from ice tools???

Jeff and Alex Lowe (and thousands more) climbed WI6 w those tools.  Theyre great.  Hook your way up and learn form and finesse.  Dont cut the bridge of your nose open on that adze.  

Straight shaft = smashing knuckles against bulges in the ice.  Swollen knuckles used to be par for the course all season long.  

Matthew Hoffwrote:

How did you get bloody hands from ice tools???

 You obviously have never swung straight shaft tools on featured ice. There is a reason they started to put a curve in the shaft of modern tools.

You will probably notice the boots the most. I have climbed a few pitches in ski boots and they work but you will miss the ankle flexion 

Just get out there on whatever you have, If you like climbing on that rig you can get some pitches in and start shopping for some deals on newer gear

I think those are the Grivel 90 Degree ice tools ,I had a pair around nighties, maybe 2000.

Terminators by DMM, mid 20+ years, all great tools.

Lowas also had some boots that where kind of ski, but walkable

I’m no Jeff or Alex Lowe but I led WI 3 and 4 with those very tools BITD.  Still got ‘em in my garage in Berkeley if anyone wants ‘em (free, of course).

Well folks I got an update for yas! I got boots!! There a little old, but they were 10 bucks at my local mountain store, so i couldnt pass them up. 

they fit perfectly on my feet and work great with my crampons. If anyone knows how old they are id love to know! somehow the rubber is still in great shape!

Great find!

I believe that boot is the La Sportiva Trango .  It is a pretty cool lightweight boot. It won’t be very warm . Just depends on what you want to do with it. 

Yeah, those are the original LS Trangoes, from the mid-late 90s.  No Gore-tex, and heavier than the current fabric versions, but designed for the same thing.

Matthew Hoffwrote:

Well folks I got an update for yas! I got boots!! There a little old, but they were 10 bucks at my local mountain store, so i couldnt pass them up. 

they fit perfectly on my feet and work great with my crampons. If anyone knows how old they are id love to know! somehow the rubber is still in great shape!

First gen Sportiva Trangos. I still have a pair and use them sometimes for summer alpine. I bought the Petzl Irvis Hybrid for them last summer. They came out in the later 90s, because I remember them being released after the original Nepals, which came out fall 94. I want to say 96, but maybe 97. Mine delammed on the left heel last summer but I had them repaired and used them several times since

Post a pic of the crampons mounted on your new boots. Interested to see how the bail rides on the front of the boot. 

People have climbed WI6+ with gear like that and M11 so use what you have. Morden gear will be better ofc and make it slightly easier to climb but use what you have

Greg Rwrote:

Post a pic of the crampons mounted on your new boots. Interested to see how the bail rides on the front of the boot. 

Here's some photos, let me know if you want to see more