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Hot Takes 2024
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Cheap headlamps from the hardware store are often just as good as fancy climbing-specific ones. It's not like BD has access to more advanced LEDs or anything. |
Pino Pepinowrote: +10,000,000,000 |
Pino Pepinowrote: I also agree. More people need to take a course to be better at sex. Not me though. I’m real good at it. I know all the best sex moves. |
Cocoapuffs 1000wrote: Crag packs peaked with Chouinard. All this modern garbage is designed to be put in the landfill so you buy another pack. |
Eric Mosswrote: If you think all that goes into a guide book is taking a few pics and writing a few descriptions, you are sorely mistaken. I've helped one of my local guidebook authors out a tiny bit with updating the guidebook he is working on, and the 2 or 3 days I put in to help out accounts for just a bit of information on 1 or 2 pages. That doesn't include drawing topos, making decisions about how to display information, formatting the book or even testing it to make sure the descriptions are easy enough to follow. Not to mention we wouldn't know about hardly any of the obscurities hidden around the areas we climb at regularly that guidebook authors go through a tremendous amount of effort to track down and document. Mountain project is an excellent resource, but ultimately it is a free resource, so there is little incentive to make it good or put the effort in at all. Not to mention people like you have burned some guidebook authors badly enough to turn them away from contributing to MP in any way at all. |
Matt Beyerwrote: Let me introduce you to actual headlamps that use 18650s. That shit changed night climbing for me. https://www.elevatedclimbing.com/products/h600w-mk-iv-xhp35-neutral-white-18650-headlamp You can actually climb with this. |
Connor Dobsonwrote: It would be cooler if you were using one with 4680s or 2170s. Just sayin |
Cocoapuffs 1000wrote: I totally agree. I throw everything I own into a big ass haul bag (aside from extra ropes, and ascenders and useless stuff at a crag) and never find that Ive forgotten anything!!! |
Elaine Gilstromwrote: Hot take: maybe that's a good thing |
Connor Dobsonwrote: Don't even need to spend close to that much to get great 18650 cell headlamps. Check aliexpress sofirn headlamps. Can get super nice build quality ones for ~$30-40. Sofirn has tons of great reviews if you check on youtube/reddit, lots of models. |
Andy Rwrote: The Sofirn HS20 headlamp is the best headlamp ever made. Independent control of the spot and flood LEDs, and IPX8 water resistant. It blows BD/Petzl headlamps out of the water. |
Alex Fischerwrote: I have exactly that one, it rules. Kinda heavy for just putting on your head but fantastic for helmets. Yeah for the money its one of the best on the market |
Andrew Childwrote: Not if done correctly. But yes, spending $100 on a route does inflate the ego. Obvious Take: The word "set" is never to be used when describing an outdoor route in any context. |
Jay Crewwrote: ever been to jacks canyon? |
John Clarkwrote: No, but I've heard the stories,,, it was a different era |
John Clarkwrote: Or anywhere Gluey Louie has been "developing" |
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Like grains of sand, and stars in the sky, there are more holds than there are gyms to place them!  |
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Eldo sucks. I'm not just talking about the climbing, which, in my limited experience in the park (Center Route, Doub-Griffith, some random Rincon routes), is fun but nothing standout. I mean seriously, the "classic" pitches I've done climb largely like a fairly standard granite face climb, but with worse friction and rock. I'm also talking about the asinine ethics. Rap bolting R rated lines? Known for runouts over bad/weird gear but plenty of hyper tightly bolted 5.12 and higher climbs? No bolts at dogshit belay stances but a separate fully bolted rappel line is kosher? It's got all of this history of climbing ethics over the years, and instead of continuing to allow routes to be adapted to fit whatever a current ethic might be, it instead tries to hold all of these often diametrically opposed ethics in hand at once. It's insanely frustrating. But honestly, the worst part isn't even the fact that it's being done, it's that it's being celebrated. It's impossible to have a conversation with an Eldo diehard about the constant inconsistencies that are so highly lauded without their justification devolving into something like "it's history" or "it's eldo, you wouldn't get it". It's not this cool, quirky personality trait that makes it more endearing. It's annoying and serves more as a playground for blowhards to feel better about the fact that they're completely unwilling to climb anything harder than 5.9 unless it's as well protected as Handcracker, and as a history museum, than it does as a quality, cohesive climbing area. Eldo's best traits are its density, access, and its beauty. If you love it, I'm genuinely stoked you have a place special like that to you. Trust me, my favorite climbing areas are objectively dogshit. But my god, Eldo diehards are the climbing equivalent of Cowboys fans and people who insist that XYZ isn't real music. Come off of it. |
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Beating a dead horse, but any time I have to spend in the town of Moab makes me want to go insane. Did a cool climb yesterday, which instantly turned into a bad mood by the several hours I had to spend in that godforsaken place today. |
Tal Mwrote: ** popcorn intensifies ** |
