Best 10 and 11 first of the grade in RRG?

Hey, 

A group of friends are planning a trip to RRG soon. I'm looking for good first of the grade 10 and 11. We are bringing a more casual climber with us that could send some 10. The rest of us are looking to potentially send our first 11 outdoor. Last year we almost sent Air Ride Equiped. Some had a good go on Half Mast and Johnny B good. Got any ideas?

Cheers

Bathtub Mary, solid contender for best 11a in the red. 

For first 10s I would recommend Johnny's Wall, 59" Drill Bitch is really approachable at the grade once you're able pull the mini boulder problem to get off the ground.

If you liked the style of Air Ride check out Methane (CH4) into Rising at Bruise Brother's. It's a short 5.7 into a couple bolts of roof pulling. If you liked the style of Johhny B Good check out Toker at Bob Marley. A little bit of a move to start followed by some relatively easier climbing to an overhung pocket finish with potential for a big clean whip into air if you blow the chains.

whipstocking and toker at PMRP for 11s

brealkfast burrito and brief history of climb are two of the most popular 10s

JC Dwrote:

brealkfast burrito

This is an amazing route, but have you actually climbed breakfast burrito??? Most people are looking for approachable 10a's when breaking into the grade, not heady and exposed 10d...

Breakfast burrito is scary as fuck. Would not personally recommend unless you are solid on 11- in that style, or like spicy little meatballs 

Ok I misunderstood the question as best 10s and first of the grade in 11s, my mistake

Gettin Lucky in Kentucky and the other 10 next to it are great and a perfect intro to RRG style climbing IMO. If you want a humbling 5.10 experience, go check out Oompa and Loompa at chocolate factory

I'd recommend The Last Supper (11a) at Gallery for breaking into 11s. The crux is pretty cruxy but if you navigate it, there is some amazing climbing to the chains. 

5.10 -> EGBG

5.11 -> Whip Stocking

If you think breakfast burrito is heady try lightning rod arete. Geez 

brianszerowrote:

If you think breakfast burrito is heady try lightning rod arete. Geez 

Yeah that route is simultaneously amazing and panic inducing.

Forgive me as this is a non-answer... but honestly any 10/11 with stars and you will have a blast. It's the land of concentration, routes amok. Throw a dart at the guidebook and rampage. If you target ONE specific climb, rest assured there will be a party on it. You have hundreds of quality pitches to choose from, I say show up a wall that has a concentration of your grade range and go nuts. 

That said, Oompa and Loompa are proud for the grade... they're so polished from traffic that the familiar sandstone friction is all but completely buffed out. 

Lithuanian Princess would be a good entry-level 10a.

You’ve got a bunch of easy 11s already mentioned. 

Air ride equipped was my first 11 sport route. I thought it was a good intro being that steep at 11a. Can't get much safer.

My first 10 in the Red was Pogue Ethics at Phantasia. It was a super fun route. It looks like it might be downgraded to a 5.9+ nowadays though.

Air ride equipped. Mega steep, Permas, multiple no hands rests, great intro to RRG 11s.

10 wise I don’t have any good recs but the budding 10 leader should beware of breakfast burrito and oompa/limos as they are pretty hard and scary for the grade.