Top rope solo going hands free
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I usually set up top rope anchor, Grigri rappel down and use cloves on quickdraws to fix the route if there are sharp edges and stuff. Clipping pas into bolt before going hands free on grigri then go hands free to clip the draw and clove the rope to it. Then unclip pas and rap further etc. is it ok that go handsfree on grigri? Normally I would not do this but having to transition or set routes on the way down kinda necessitate going hands free. Another scenario - I usually set the routes with 2 ropes coming down. I climb on one rope with 2 microtaxions, at the top of the route or say I have to bail not near a bolt, I put my grigri on the other rope, clip in and weight it, then I undo my microtaxions and rap down. Again is going hands free on the grigri ok here while Im only relying on the grigri and no pas connection to wall or backup on rope? Are there better solutions? |
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Yes going hands free is fine. If you're worried tie a back up knot. |
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Edit: I would not go hands free on a grigri without backup. I know multiple people who had it slip on them, one who got messed up by it. |
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Two progress capture devices is the standard for TRS. Pick just about any two. They all have their own failure modes you should be aware of, and camming style devices like the Camp Lift can only be used as primaries and not secondaries, but if you're using two PCDs you're probably super safe. |
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Just tie a knot if you are going to trust it only and are going to bounce around. Grigri will only really release if you unweight it but a backup knot is best practice. I just use an overhand on a bight |
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I often go hands-free while descending/ascending fixed line on GriGri. Once my full weight is on the device, I'm intellectually certain it won't slip. But I like the psychological pro of a backup knot in novel scenarios, and I'd never tell anyone not to tie one. Heck, I suppose I could have a seizure while pulling the lever... |
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Logan Petersonwrote: Same exactly |
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i typically just rap the brake strand around my leg a couple times. |
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Start your learning process with Petzl's site. If you want more "user discussion" on the subject, get busy searching the forums on Mountainproject. This topic comes up multiple times each year, so there are dozens of threads that address the things you are asking about. |
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Going hands free on a grigri is standard practice for many. If you have to ask though you may not be ready to take that leap of faith. Lead rope soloist use the device hands free. Some people use a grigri for TRS as well, especially to work a few moves in the middle of a pitch many times. Just don’t take your weight off the device once you’re hanging. This is really the only way a grigri can disengage once your hanging on it. |
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Kevin Strickerwrote: Yeah, I just come from an ATC and prussik backup background. I've already rappelled and belated with ATC so the gri gri is new to me and it's harder for me to trust it I guess than just a metal tube that I can visually see if is broken. |




