New and experienced climbers over 50 #30

Guy Keeseewrote:

Phylp… they are real for sure. I have been pretty lucky in that regard. I can usually figure that out on the drive.
Before I even tie in with someone who is new, to me, and get up in the air. I want to see them in action. Can they belay? Can they deal with the gear? How do they treat their dog. Things like that.

I consider great partners to be people who add to the energy. You can feel the mutual connection to the objective and the desire to do everything it takes to achieve it. Having a partner who is being a downer just spoils “it” for me and is a major reason for most retreats.

@Lori…. Good to know your venturing out, deep into the Monument. That ridge line is very long, convoluted and not as straight forward as it looks. Best to have a good partner along incase anything goes south.
I recommend you go hike to Samuelson Rocks - it’s not to far, you can’t get lost because you have a 100 year old road to follow. The rock out there is really cool. The political messaging he left is timeless. I am always amazed to see what people did 100 years ago to earn a living from the land. We are soft now.

Later all 

Oh… to add: Carl you deserve to be flogged for what you did to that fine Coopers. The horror! 

Haha! You know Coopers! Cool. It’s made in my home state of course. 

The Kamps tale is gold Rich, Gold I say.

Thanks for the share. +1

Tad

Rich… cool story about Bob. I really miss that guy. He was our Spiritual Father at Stoney Point. He would gather up all the climbers around 5pm and head off on his circuit of problems. You had to at least try the problem, if you failed, Bob would point out why. Offer you a suggestion— “get stronger” “drop your hip” “turn your hand”.
He did this for like 20-30 years and many many climbers were created. I humbly try to emulate him and pass on the knowledge. As Bobby would say… “it’s what we do, pass on the secrets, that’s how it’s always been done..”

Carl - Yes, I know Coopers. Back before the microbrewery craze hit, if you wanted something other than Bud, Miller, Coors you needed to look for imports. We were lucky to have Trader Joe’s, Venmo and a few other outlets.
My favorite was Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery Pale Ale. - made in the same slate crocks going back to 1765 … 

Second was Watneys Red Barrel ale 

Third was Coopers Stout 

Drink up now, enjoy.

Great story upthread tfpu 

Wow, rgold! Coming up on 30 x 500 = 15,000 posts and that might be #1. It got my palms a little sweaty!

There's a similar vein of writing in a piece by jim Sinclair (now 95) published in Mirrors in the Cliffs, "Sometimes you know..." with a classic line when he has a smoke before sacking up for some moves above "what a beautiful thing a terrible thing like a cigarette is"

Brandt Allenwrote:

Wow, rgold! Coming up on 30 x 500 = 15,000 posts and that might be #1. It got my palms a little sweaty!

There’s something about old experienced people climbing that’s really cool.

 

Li Huwrote:

There’s something about old people climbing that’s really cool.

 

We're not old, just experienced!

Idaho Bobwrote:

We're not old, just experienced!

There, fixed it.   

i’ve been thinking about Wyatt Earp and have always been fascinated by the various gunslingers of the wild West. I just discovered that Earp wrote a book before he died in 1929 so I’m going to order it. I never knew that the gun fight at the OK corral only lasted 30 seconds.

In a way, the original climbers were a kind of outlaw. I’d like to break some rules, but it’s pretty safe out here.

So I took a look at the route that rises above my proposed cave route. This is as close to vertical as you can get and smooth as a baby’s butt. How the hell is it only a 5.8?

speaking of gunslingers… I believe there’s a story here. 

Lori Milaswrote:

So I took a look at the route that rises above my proposed cave route. This is as close to vertical as you can get and smooth as a baby’s butt. How the hell is it only a 5.8?

One of two things, the FA had holds that subsequently broke off, or the FA was done by Spider-Man.   

We have finger cracks in the gym, and a few individuals with thin hands who can hand jam those cracks. It’s annoying that they rate the cracks 5.9 whereas for the rest of us would be like a 5.13 overhanging finger layback. Annoying at best, but there you go.  

As for the gunslinger thing? I went to Tombstone and watched re-enactments of that gunfight. They seemed to last much longer than 30 seconds? They replayed it every hour, so, maybe?

One thing that struck me was that nearly everyone there open carried their pistols with a few people toting assault rifles. Most of the guns were Austrian made Glocks and Swiss made Sig Sauers. Imagine if they had those back then? Either the gunfight would have lasted 5 seconds or hours with negotiations and such   

Good Morning Lori…. So what root are you showing US now? If it’s rated 5.8 you can bet on there being good holds to be found. Go For It!

Lu…. It’s not the size of your fingers, hands, rather how you use them. Just saying.

So are you all watching the DNC convention?
Some of the things I have seen, heard, leave me, literally speechless.

2024 a banner year for America.

Climb on!

Later 

Guy Keeseewrote:

Good Morning Lori…. So what root are you showing US now? If it’s rated 5.8 you can bet on there being good holds to be found. Go For It!

Lu…. It’s not the size of your fingers, hands, rather how you use them. Just saying.

So are you all watching the DNC convention?
Some of the things I have seen, heard, leave me, literally speechless.

2024 a banner year for America.

Climb on!

Later 

Oh no Guy! You don’t get to break your own November 6 rule! Note how everyone on this thread has been so judiciously avoiding the subject and now you…  

The route I believe is The Big Lie.   The much larger Watergate wall is just behind it and maybe that’s why this rock hasn’t gotten much love. But I’m giving it a lot of love.

It would be very cool to visit tombstone. I have a feeling there were many such outlaws around here and I’ll bet there’s probably local history to be found. My brother was a nuclear engineer, and he had a fantasy – – what if the world could hold an Olympics for all the fighter jets and guns and armaments of every kind and every four years just duke it out for the gold medal and then just put it all away for the next four years. It could be a regular OK corral in 2028. And if we were including air machines, I would love to see everything a Harrier can do.  

Lori…. The Big Lie… it’s not on MP (no surprise, MP has been doing it’s best to let us all know it not about the climbing) 

So you have been cruising out by Comic Book.

Personally I was never a fan of Comic Book, the rock is really grainy in those parts. But I might be wrong, once you have a bad experience it’s hard to forget that.

Trying to finish up the remodeling job- so I can cut out of here and go traveling “out west”.

Lori- the “gun fight” lasted for only 30 seconds… 

A heck of a long time if your standing in the OK Corral.
You n Tony should go visit Cochise. The west side and Tombstone. Fall is best time. Have a few drinks in the famous “Long Nose Kate Saloon”. Tombstone is a tourist trap but it’s cool to wander through the side streets. I’m sure you could find a guide and do some of the outstanding climbing on the Sheepshead.

Re The DNC…. As a Democrat sense 1973, I just cannot believe what I’m watching in 2024.
Speechless … at a loss for words. Truly 

C Miller….. thanks for clarifying. It’s all coming back to me now….. 

You do know your JT

Tombstone is a full-on tourist trap, but still fun--Boot Hill is worth a wander through. As Guy said, Cochise west side in just a short way up the road---and very, very much worth a visit.  Isle of You has some very accessible sport routes at moderate grades---on better rock than most of J Tree and then there are the longer routes higher up.

As far as the gunfight---facing off at short range with 6-shooters---30 seconds is a very long time---forever for several of the participants.

Some years back I bailed off I am not a Crook. Not nearly enough bolts for a chicken friction climber like me. We TRed it and it felt hard enough that I was happy with my decision. It's 5.8 because it's not nearly vertical and has enough dishes and bumps to make it doable. I remember that standing up on the mini-pinnacle at the start was quite interesting.

And by the way, I watched Oprah at the DNC last night. I kept waiting for her to start pointing at the audience and say, "You've got a Kamala! And you've got a Kamala...!"

Dog lovers out there ,you need to get on board with this dude, Rocky Kanaka. Subscribe,  buy his coffee, and get a dog ( or cat) from the shelter. 

The Earps and doc Holliday had the best PR team on the planet. there have been thousands of gun fights in this country that rivaled or surpassed that one that no one even knows about. The big two that come to mind is the LA bank robbery where the two bad guys had  home made body armor and SKS rifles modified to be full auto with 90 rnd drums.  they made just one movie about that one and no one knows the names of the people involved. that event was the catalyst for the militarization of our nations civilian police forces yet few people even know of it.  OK corral they are all house hold names. FBI Miami shootout of 1986. google that one and wonder why no one knows those names...  It is used in training but the public has no clue. On any given sat night in the hood there is a shootout. Those guys from tombstone had a damn good press agent ;) 

I've missed the whole DNC thing, do they mention the thousands of protesters outside at all? Does any mainstream news mention the protesters? 

Samuel Smiths nut brown ale is definitely one of those beers that I could never say no to.

I've pretty much fully decided that anyone who supports pet breeders over pets in shelters is never going to be a good friend of mine, that's how strongly I  feel about the subject.  I had some "friends" who bought some cats from a "top notch" breeder in the last year, recently it came to my attention that those breeders were attempting to sell the female breeder because she was all used up. That is exactly how lots of animals end up in shelters, just drop them off when they aren't worth $ anymore...