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ankle sprain and torn ligament

Original Post
Auds S · · California · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 5

I’m going through a pretty bad ankle sprain and tore my ligament. Not fractured. It’s been about 3 weeks now and I’ve been doing PT twice a week.

I feel OK, just sad I can’t climb outside while it’s still healing. I just started my trad journey a few months before the sprain.


Has anyone gone through an ankle injury? How was it like getting back into trad and crack climbing? I can’t imagine doing a foot jam right now lol.. any words of encouragement greatly appreciated

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

How did you hurt your ankle?

Heal up soon!

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

RICE

Matt Wetmore · · Traveling · Joined May 2017 · Points: 565

I had a grade 2 ankle sprain running in the Enchantments the end of last July, and couldn't climb for a month and a half. I did PT regularly and eased into hiking and very limited trail running as my PT allowed it. By late September I was back to climbing (without foot jams) and some hiking and running, but I would occasionally re-aggravate my ankle resulting in some mild pain and tightness throughout the winter. Everything was basically back to normal by January or February. This July on a trip to Squamish I did plenty of crack climbing and ankle-pounding downhill running with no problem.

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 46

Had bad sprain bouldering in gym (caught foot on huge hold sticking out of bottom of wall after little slip) and took 2.5 months to heal to be able to climb again. 

Probably should have gone to doctor.

3.5 months after, i still get some stiffness/pain after hiking short distances. At least im able to jam the foot into cracks again.

Might take anywhere from 2-12 months to be fully healed for your/mine ankle

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Andy Rwrote:

Had bad sprain bouldering in gym (caught foot on huge hold sticking out of bottom of wall after little slip) and took 2.5 months to heal to be able to climb again. 

Probably should have gone to doctor.

3.5 months after, i still get some stiffness/pain after hiking short distances. At least im able to jam the foot into cracks again.

Might take anywhere from 2-12 months to be fully healed for your/mine ankle

Your ankle is still probably broken (hairline fracture?) and you don't even know it! Probably should still see a doctor.

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 46
FrankPSwrote:

Your ankle is still probably broken (hairline fracture?) and you don't even know it! Probably should still see a doctor.

Could be.. maybe I'm in denial but it didn't have any bruising at all after injury... dunno. Its like 90% healed now so maybe it has mostly healed on its own during 2ish month rest period.

Now its not affecting climbing ability at all but affecting hiking some days.

Tony S · · Minnesota · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 379
Steve Williamswrote:

RICE

Rice is becoming outdated. Funny name but the METH method is replacing it. This is especially true for tendons and ligaments that will *not* heal through rest.

OP be religious with your rehab. And key: continue it past the point that your ankle feels better!

This is the best ankle brace I’ve found: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TZTO0VM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I’ve passed this thing between three different ankle sprains. 

Auds S · · California · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 5

Thanks to those who commented so far. Glad to read realistic timelines on when I am expected to get back into crack climbing and rehab advice. 

It wasn’t a climbing related injury. I was at a metal concert. I bounced around too hard. People started stage diving. it rolled twice and I was carried away lol. 

Joel P · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 50

I am almost 2 years out from a severe ankle sprain after slipping off a boulder and landing at a funny angle on my foot. I was dumb and thought YouTube could be my physical therapist. I have my right foot in a bucket of ice water as I am writing this because a little bit of trail running last week cause my ankle pain and instability to flare up again. Be patient and seek out professional physical therapy, don’t be stupid like me! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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