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Rapping off accessory cord anchor

Original Post
Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

I was watching the Petzl video about rappelling on the rad line. They used a piece of accessory cord to build an anchor but didn’t use a carabiner, just rapped off it. My question is, has anyone done this? Would you be worried about shredding your rad line when pulling it down? I don’t really care about the tat, just wondering about the friction on the rad line.  

Edit: here’s the link.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-rappel-during-a-ski-descent?ActivityName=Ski-touring

Bug Boy · · Boulder, CO :( · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

This would/could cause the anchor cord to get "shredded" (probably only slightly worn in reality) because the rad line is rubbing against a single point but the rad line should be totally fine. This isn't done super regularly because the friction can be harder to overcome, and it can cause the anchor cord to be single use in an extreme case, and people just don't realize it's an option.

Stefan Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

Leaving a rappel anchor without a carabiner is something you see everywhere in the Alps. Sometimes, but definitely not always, there will be a  maillon rapide, though. 

odhuk dhukk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 0

You generally have to leave slings or gear behind if you're bailing on a route. There are usually established rap routes on multi pitch climbs without walk offs. You'll find trees with slings and rap rings on them or bolts some type of chain/rap ring combo. Most guide books will have info on how to find the rap routes, how long the rappels are, and how long your rope(s) should be to do it safely. I never go up a long route with out a bail plan, and sometimes bring bail biners and slings if there is any chance I won't make it to the top.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

As noted lots of people have done this type of rappel. As noted above the rap line will be fine because the friction is spread out along the whole of the line. 

Regarding using accessory cord. Many a climber has replaced their boot laces with thin accessory cord, and I know a few who have used it.

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

I have rapped of cord many times. It can get slightly burn when you pull the rope, but it likley fine to use again. You however need to inspect it very carefully if you are going to rap of somthing you have found. The rad line will be fine since it moves when you pull it. Nothing will happen there. 

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

appreciate all the responses, this is exactly what I was hoping to hear, real world experience.

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

It can work... but carabiners are cheap and you have a ton on your harness.

What is your life worth? What is your life worth to your SO or friends?

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2
Eric Craig wrote:

How is one endangering their life by rappelling off of an accessory cord or webbing sling? I ask for clarification because this statement on it's own is nonsense. 

Carabiners aren't particularly cheap, either. 

You have been climbing long enough that I should not have to repeat what we all should know by now:
Loaded rope running over stationary rope or webbing can quickly cut it due to the concentrated friction. In this context it could easily happen should the rap be done as a simul-rap or if the rap was not done as a blocked rap but balanced rap and more of one rope ran through the device than the other. Additionally, found simple cord or webbing anchors have been exposed to UV for god-knows-how-long and will be even more prone to failure than brand new tat.

Carabiners are like the cost of a cup of coffee. Your SO or friends would drop that without a second thought if it meant you came home alive. Hell, there is a guide who you can text a photo of the anchor you left a carabiner on and he will send you a replacement. No excuses.

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476

This is also intentionally leaving trash in whatever alpine/backcountry environment you are in. Unless necessitated for safety in an unforeseen bail, it is pretty poor form.
I don't care if it is "standard practice" - still poor form.

If it is a route worth doing, at least leave a ring/etc, so that the anchor can be used more than once. 

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

Emergency bailing, OK, whatever, you do you, you be however comfortable you want... You are leaving some tat someone may cut and remove for you some time later if it is easy to access from a more established rap line or on the line of a climb... but is it really the time to be trying to save a few bucks?

Established rap line / rap stations that others will use time and time again? If it doesn't have dedicated metal hardware to thread through, it isn't an established rap line. Its incomplete. If someone adds metal hardware, don't remove it unless your going to replace it with something better.

We have this happen here all the time at Red Rock. IE. Dedicated rap lines like those used to descend most routes on the First Creek Slabs or Solar Slab Gully. Despite the very established bolted rap anchors, people take the quicklinks on the bolts and replace it with cord directly through the hangers and rap right on that... just forcing the hand of future parties in removing their trash and sacrificing some of their own. These are not the random bail anchors of parties hopelessly off route... these are conga lines.

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

It is very important that you understand what you are doing, and if you fuck this up you could die. I however feel completly fine doing a normal rap from accessory cord. I do not leave a carabiner. When I have bailed from mountains, I have placed two nuts, tied them together using 7 mm cord and just rapped with the rope on the cord. Some day I might have to leave a cam, but I will if that is called for. I however dont see myself leaving any carabiners in the bail anchors. 

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

I figure pictures are good.

My first bail. After my first lead fall on ice (big whipper!), very worried about dying and such. Notice the two (!?!) abalakovs and the carabiner...

Bail anchors without carabiner

Gear for downclimbing/lower

Collected gear

I actually still have the same cord and bring it. You can see where the rope was pulled, byt it is simple to tye it off if you worry about it. 

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Witford that’s exactly what I was looking for. Not super concerned about it, I just found it odd that Petzl endorsed it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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