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Dumb injury, inspect all gear attached to harness, even chalk bags.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

The takeaway here is that the belayer should have one of those inflatable donuts on (using a belt, not a biner) BEFORE shit happens.  Think ahead people. Add one to your rack today.  

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Trevor Peschek wrote:

Yes, but the "rock" was big enough that all the helmet would've done is maybe snap my neck rather than cave my head in.  I'm not convinced these helmets will do much against a 10lb rock falling from 60ft+.  A little choss or a dropped draw maybe, sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJhngt_wS2Y

you make your own conclusions.

Maxwell Hvolbek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 10
phylp phylp wrote:

For a long time I would get pain after certain types of repetitive aerobic exercise.

Edit: seems obviously an innuendo...

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Mr Rogers wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJhngt_wS2Y

you make your own conclusions.

Gold!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The obvious answer is to wear one of these when belaying:

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

My sister in law hurt her backside and was discussing it with my wife in front of my niece who was 10 at the time. She said, the doctor told me I should sit on a donut. And my niece confused said, why would you sit on a donut? 

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Clearly the answer to the chalkbag question is to donate $25 to ASCA and Will Sew For Bolts will send you one of these sewn to your custom length.  Made with retired half ropes and 3/4" YKK side lock buckle.  Or, if your bag has big enough loops, you can use our standard 1" belts with black-anodized G-hook buckles - available in over 25 colors.  Donations matched 100% through July.  PM for details.  Check out all the goodies at Will Sew For Bolts on FB and IG.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
FrankPS wrote:

The obvious answer is to wear one of these when belaying:

I ice skate with those exact pants!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
M M wrote:

I ice skate with those exact pants!

That's what I like about you, M&M, always thinking ahead. Prepared at all times.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
FrankPS wrote:

That's what I like about you, M&M, always thinking ahead. Prepared at all times.

Bruised and broken tailbones are absolutely the worst, bruised and broken ribs are a close second 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137
Maxwell Hvolbek wrote:

Edit: seems obviously an innuendo...

LOL! I applaud your no age discrimination mindset that could conjure a 70+ year old in that context.

It's really quite boring compared to your creative imagination.  I have not been able to run for decades due to bad lumbar disks and not-so-great knees.  Sitting on a bike seat is the worst since the tailbone injury. So I do an hour of elliptical, or fast walking on a treadmill raised to a steep uphill angle for an aerobic workout.  Both those things can afterwards cause my tailbone to be sore on occasion, even this many years after the accident, (which IIRC happened around 2008?). Biking on a seated bike is fine but I don't enjoy that.

Thanks for the laugh!

Jason · · Hillsboro, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 10
Mr Rogers wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJhngt_wS2Y

you make your own conclusions.

Having seen at least one person avoid dying by moving out of the way of a giant block, I'm not so sure about that advice to not look up

Trevor Peschek · · Rumney, NH · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:

Climbing Partner Safety Checks:

Knot? Check.

Through both loops? Check

Harness doubled back? Check

System closed? Check

Chalkbag properly attached? Uh, check.

That last check isn't going to happen. Not going to catch on as a routine check.

Unfortunate freak accident.

Yea freak accident for sure.  I'm not saying to add chalkbag check to your routine every climb, that's dumb.  But maybe once a year first time outside for the season, take a look at the loops on everything should be something we all do.  This was an 8 year old chalkbag with a frayed loop, a single glance at any point in the past 2 years probably would have prevented this.

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
Trevor Peschek wrote:

Yea freak accident for sure.  I'm not saying to add chalkbag check to your routine every climb, that's dumb.  But maybe once a year first time outside for the season, take a look at the loops on everything should be something we all do.  This was an 8 year old chalkbag with a frayed loop, a single glance at any point in the past 2 years probably would have prevented this.

I respect that you got hurt and I'm sorry for the pain it must be causing. Broken tailbones are awful. 

I don't think everything has to be a PSA and learning lesson though. Your partner just as easily could have dropped a draw, biner, a rock, sling, etc and your reaction would have been the same and caused the same injury. The biggest take away for me is that you might need to learn how to properly get out of the way of falling items. Ice climbers learn this really fast, and no one teaches running backwards as the best reaction. 

I hope you heal up fast. 

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Sorry for the thread drift but I don't understand why everyone doesn't climb with their chalkbag attached to 5mm cord around their waist.  That way you always have something to prussik with, back up a rappel, etc. etc.  

A secondary bonus is that the chalkbag is stationary on your back and doesn't flap around, making it easier to get to quickly.  There is a reason you don't see pros clipping their chalkbag to their harnesses.  

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Cause for us semi frequent bailers it's nice to have a old biner ready to leave for someone's booty collection, I also am a chalk whore that wants to reach back and quickly dip in the same spot every time. It's also a great spot to clip a rope for trailing up an extra

 Believe me, I've tried cord and webbing , I'm not a pro either so it makes even more sense!

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16
Eric D wrote:

Sorry for the thread drift but I don't understand why everyone doesn't climb with their chalkbag attached to 5mm cord around their waist.  That way you always have something to prussik with, back up a rappel, etc. etc.  

I tried this for a while and went back to the light and thin belt and buckle that came with my chalk bag. I don’t want to fuck around with a knot every time i take my chalk bag on and off, I don’t want a knot at my waist being irritating, I already carry 3-4 cords anyway and use them for a variety of purposes, I don’t want to waste time taking off my chalk bag and clipping my chalk bag in during an emergency situation. And I want 6mm cord if I’m using it as a life supporting attachment to the rope.

This reminds me of the old advice never bring an accessory biner climbing. But I do anyway. For example when I did clip my chalk bag it was with an accessory biner. If I’m dumb enough to use it for a life supporting application I deserve to die. It’s 1/3 the weight of a lightweight biner. I’d rather use light weight single purpose item for accessories than worry about having one more piece of gear that weighs 3 times as much and doesn’t work as well for the one in a billion chance I can’t rescue myself with all of my climbing gear. 

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

  The US Postal Service will be issuing a commemorative stamp, celebrating this discussion. 

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667
FrankPS wrote:

The obvious answer is to wear one of these when belaying:

I was wondering why Facebook was showing me these things in sponsored links... now I know, 

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

What did you expect . . .

A raccoon thrashing inside a laundry bag, and - et voila.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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