This trend is terrible, and needs to chill TF out

Grade inflation has gone wild.  Routes that have been settled at a grade for decades are getting extra letters now.  Newish routes start soft, and even get upgraded when a couple shorties have a tough time on it.  

Doesn't anyone care about a good old fashioned sandbag anymore?  A nice downgrade you deliver with a smug look on your face?

Sure it hurts the 8a score for a little but the clout is worth way more.  

Your project is soft and you know it, even before the new kneebar.

Make downgrades great again 2024

11 hours and no one has taken the bait?!

Always love some sand to spice up a troll.

6/10

almostradwrote:

Grade inflation has gone wild.  Routes that have been settled at a grade for decades are getting extra letters now.  Newish routes start soft, and even get upgraded when a couple shorties have a tough time on it.  

Doesn't anyone care about a good old fashioned sandbag anymore?  A nice downgrade you deliver with a smug look on your face?

Sure it hurts the 8a score for a little but the clout is worth way more.  

Your project is soft and you know it, even before the new kneebar.

Make downgrades great again 2024

Yes, it's definitely the shorties that are at fault. Also, who doesn't love puffing their own ego when "delivering a downgrade".

This thread would be a 5.5 in Little Cottonwood

Natalie Blackburnwrote:

Yes, it's definitely the shorties that are at fault. Also, who doesn't love puffing their own ego when "delivering a downgrade".

You’re right. It’s probably less about height and more just how soft climbers are from the bay

Climbing Weaselwrote:

6/10

Inflated troll grade, this is 3/10 at best

#maketrollinggreatagain2024

Noah Betzwrote:

Inflated troll grade, this is 3/10 at best

#maketrollinggreatagain2024

It’s at least 4c/4c+

I'll bite. I find a lot of strong climbers in the gunks currently and historically have at least 6'2" reach. The grades they give themselves are insane when I'm chuffin' around at 5'9". Oh XXXX route feels sandbagged? Imagine the holds five inches further apart. Get ya ass up the rock and stop whining.

Eh...some of the best gunks sandbags are put up by shorter climbers.

Lynn Hill really knows how to put the + in 12+.

Jordan Mills, talking about a 5.13a, once unironically said, "Oh, the crux is around V9, but you're fully rested."

Or maybe we all just think the routes that don't fit our "box" are harder? In any case, long live the sandbag!

If you’re talking about my gym, I wholeheartedly agree with you 

As a short Climber, I am often  able to do climbs statically that tall climber have to dyno  for because the holds that are at their waist are useless.

bridgewrote:

Eh...some of the best gunks sandbags are put up by shorter climbers.

Lynn Hill really knows how to put the + in 12+.

Jordan Mills, talking about a 5.13a, once unironically said, "Oh, the crux is around V9, but you're fully rested."

Or maybe we all just think the routes that don't fit our "box" are harder? In any case, long live the sandbag!

Certain Russ routes are simply undoable for shorter climbers "Cheatstone," "short people", "thumbs up"(I'm the lowest limit on that at a 13a grade) "Let's do it" and many others.

I think you said Iron Cross is the bitterest end of .12. John Bragg was a giant too. Move that crux gaston 5 inches further away and tell me the grade.

I can only think of Yellow Crack and Girls for Lynn, both feel spot on IMO.

Being long is an advantage, don't pretend it isn't!

Eric Marxwrote:

Certain Russ routes are simply undoable for shorter climbers "Cheatstone," "short people", "thumbs up"(I'm the lowest limit on that at a 13a grade) "Let's do it" and many others.

I think you said Iron Cross is the bitterest end of .12. John Bragg was a giant too. Move that crux gaston 5 inches further away and tell me the grade.

I can only think of Yellow Crack and Girls for Lynn, both feel spot on IMO.

Being long is an advantage, don't pretend it isn't!

Also, though Stannard isn't particularly tall, he has especially long arms---I have no idea of his 'ape index' , but it must be very large. Still, while size and other inherent physical differences do make a difference on certain routes, most of the time folks are able to figure out 'work arounds'--at least on rock---harder to do in gyms.

The point is we all think the hardest climbs are those that don't fit our bodies.

I personally like a good sandbag because it forces compensation and learning, usually in movement skills.

Girls at 12+, for me, in my body, is a joke. But that doesn't change the grade.

Sir, they found a second kneebar

Oh come on - you have to name some of the feather bagged routes that are getting fluffed up!

Soiled 800-fill Down Boxerswrote:

Oh come on - you have to name some of the feather bagged routes that are getting fluffed up!

Rainbow Wall in Eldo has been 13b for a long time now because "some holds have broken"?!! No holds have fucken broken, that's the cleanest most solid stone in the canyon. It's just a really solid 13a. 

Back before electricity everyone climbed slabs and over time proper footwork in newer climbers has notiiceably slipped enough that the only way to justify getting your ass handed to you requires grade inflation. At least on that route it seems.

This is dumb troll post from OP but this route fits your question. Also Pump-O-Rama at Rifle, along with others, but whatever. Deep down in a climbers heart, they know they're light.

Soiled 800-fill Down Boxerswrote:

Oh come on - you have to name some of the feather bagged routes that are getting fluffed up!

There's a lot to choose from, but this is probably the first one that comes to mind.   Everyone knows it's soft 12b

almostradwrote:

There's a lot to choose from, but this is probably the first one that comes to mind.   Everyone knows it's soft 12b

Haha!! It sure isn’t 5.13