RNMP alpine starts - how?

Every CO climber knows the 1pm alpine thunderstorm and the necessity of getting off the summit (or, better, back to the base) by that point. Ergo, the alpine start.

All good and fine, but how does this work in practice in RMNP for those of us not living in Estes Park? Are you leaving Denver/Boulder at 2-3am? Are you camping somewhere in the vicinity that miraculously isn't $75/night or reserved by March?

What's your secret to the early start in RNMP (aside from bivying night before)? 

It seems like people manage to do these routes every weekend like they're going to Eldo, and I want to know how they're nailing the logistics. 

Most climbs you want to start climbing before light. If it's snow/ice mixed maybe climbing mostly before dawn. Depending on the approach leaving the car between 2-3am sometimes earlier if the storm pattern is early.

Having done hundreds, close to a thousand alpine starts in RMNP, I found that pounding some strong beer at pm had me sleeping by 5pm then up at midnight to go climbing. The beer is key as the calories will be useful on the approach and it induces sleep/long nap quickly without side effects that coffee can't fix.

Eli Helmuthwrote:

I found that pounding some strong beer at 4am had me sleeping by 5pm then up at midnight to go climbing.

Lmao - do you really mean 4am or typo for 4pm?  Love it either way!

For OP, I've just dabbled with RMNP, and they've all been super early, leaving trailhead at like 4am, so reverse timeline to be there at that time.  So yes, like 1-2am from Denver or Boulder, etc.

Really fun climbing there, just need to be done EARLY!

It starts getting light around 515am.  Typical approach is 2hrs.  Its always a race to get on the face.  Then people slow down and fumble about ahead of you.  

Bivying takes more time and energy, you sleep poorly, and eat and drink of a lesser quality and quantity.  Typically those who hike in early pass those who bivy while theyre still cooking oatmeal.  

Hydrate and fuel, get up super dooper early.  Wear light clothes/shoes and haul ass up the trail.  Water can be filled at the base of most walls.  

Eli Helmuth knows whats up--alarm at midnight.  Cold beer in a cooler in your car for when you get back early afternoon.  

OR, go up late afternoon when the storms have cleared and enjoy being the only team in the Park moving about while you climb thru the night.  Night time is the right time in RMNP.

Get up at 2:30am, drink coffee on the drive, start hiking at 4:30am, go climbing.

And check the forecast.  Hot, high pressure is the key.  You'll probably be good on those days.  Don't go if the precip potential is over 30% or if there is monsoonal flow.

Eli Helmuthwrote:

Most climbs you want to start climbing before light. If it's snow/ice mixed maybe climbing mostly before dawn. Depending on the approach leaving the car between 2-3am sometimes earlier if the storm pattern is early.

Having done hundreds, close to a thousand alpine starts in RMNP, I found that pounding some strong beer at 4am had me sleeping by 5pm then up at midnight to go climbing. The beer is key as the calories will be useful on the approach and it induces sleep/long nap quickly without side effects that coffee can't fix.

Don't let Eli fool you. He nailed the algorithm. At 2 or 3 a.m., he then pounds a bowl of ice cream for breakfast, then that usually carries him over until his 2 p.m. lunch of cookies. 

We are not all built like Eli Helmuth. 

The "sleeping close to the park" logistics can be really hard. I leave from Longmont or Fort Collins and often meet my partner in the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center lot at 4 or 4:30 a.m. so then we only take one car up. Leaving the car by 5 a.m. usually gets us to the base by 7 or 7:30, climbing by 8 a.m. Top out by 2 p.m. latest, back to the base by 3:30 or 4, back to the car by 6 or 7 at the latest. 

It will often rain or hail at some point throughout the day, but usually I'm in a safe location when it happens (on the ground or on the top.) It usually passes quickly and dries fast. Carry a rain jacket at all times. 

If you set an alarm for 6:55 p.m. and have the website loaded to try to get a permit for 5 a.m. the next morning, I've had pretty good luck with that so far. 5 a.m. isn't too late to start for fast parties, if they can find parking. 

first off 

alpine climbing is type two fun? lack of sleep, cold and wind and rain and snow and ice to cross on approach? heavy packs and feeling like shit the next few days afterwards? 

2024 still has free entry into rmnp before 5AM arrive by 4:50AM as they man the gate early?

any parking tickets given so far? maybe get the golden eagle pass to display while parked? 

closest free camping is camp dick?

seems like most wake up from home about 2-230AM to drive in the gate by 4:45AM or earlier then head light hike with GPS map using paid apps like raq up or onxy or supertopo? 

bring an oh shit kit? gel super glue to close gashes from rock fall? space blankets and beanie for no hyperthermia? sos device for contact rescue? 

The Butt-Shot Whispererwrote:

first off 

alpine climbing is type two fun? lack of sleep, cold and wind and rain and snow and ice to cross on approach? heavy packs and feeling like shit the next few days afterwards? 

2024 still has free entry into rmnp before 5AM arrive by 4:50AM as they man the gate early?

any parking tickets given so far? maybe get the golden eagle pass to display while parked? 

closest free camping is camp dick?

seems like most wake up from home about 2-230AM to drive in the gate by 4:45AM or earlier then head light hike with GPS map using paid apps like raq up or onxy or supertopo? 

bring an oh shit kit? gel super glue to close gashes from rock fall? space blankets and beanie for no hyperthermia? sos device for contact rescue? 

Is the ? the only punctuation key that works on your keyboard? 

NateCwrote:

Is the ? the only punctuation key that works on your keyboard? 

ur right wont bother with any punctuations going fwd

searching for answers

u got answers for alpine

or only condemnation  and snarky questions   

The Butt-Shot Whispererwrote:

ur right wont bother with any punctuations going fwd

Why stop there? Yxx cxn xndxrstxnd whxt Xm wrxtxng xvxn xf X rxplxcx xll thx vxwxls wxth xn "x" (t gts lttl hrdr f y dn't knw whr th vwls r).

Thanks for the beta everyone. I guess the early start from Denver/Boulder is indeed the move. 

The Butt-Shot Whispererwrote:

ur right wont bother with any punctuations going fwd

searching for answers

u got answers for alpine

or only condemnation  and snarky questions   

I see how that came off as snarky but I legitimately couldn’t tell if those were all questions, a mix of questions and statements, or all statements with improper punctuation.

I’ve got plenty of answers about alpine climbing. Your post made it hard to identify what were the questions though. It appears the OP got his answer by now so I won’t bother to add more. 

i sleep in my cybertruck in my driveway. at 2am it automatically drives me to the long's peak trailhead

Dave Schultzwrote:

Lmao - do you really mean 4am or typo for 4pm?  Love it either way!

Gracias, I need an editor!

Free Spiritwrote:

Don't let Eli fool you. He nailed the algorithm. At 2 or 3 a.m., he then pounds a bowl of ice cream for breakfast, then that usually carries him over until his 2 p.m. lunch of cookies. 

We are not all built like Eli Helmuth. 

Dang, I had forgotten that the key to my equation was the pint of B&J at midnight with a cup of coffee... Who wouldn't want2 to wake up to a pint of pure love! Chunky monkey was my go-to Thanks for the reminder❤️

Funny, living in the tropics I haven't eaten ice cream for years, no need for extra fat when the air temp is so close to body temp!

to be climibing early.. you wake up early....The bivy move is fun but does make your pack alot heavier.. 10/10 would recommend doing a bivy in the park at some point though almost never an issue getting their permit the week of.. and man do the views of the starts kick ass! There are also ways to sleep in/ near the park the night before.. if you want some spots you can dm me i'm not going to blast it out.. but there also pretty obvious.

Do the bivy. if the overnight forecast is good just bring a pad, bag and a tarp/cover in case it rains. Bivying up high is super enjoyable, stove optional, but is great to catch the sunrise with a cup of coffee instead of hiking through the dark. Even with a ton of fitness, doing everything in a push isn't all that enjoyable compared to camping and taking your time.

The early start in RMNP is kinda painful sometimes but it is the best way to get up routes and not get nailed by storms. My start times have always varied a bit depending on the route but for the petit I would like to be hiking by 2:30-3 so I’m at the base and ready to climb around first light. Maybe even a bit earlier for the diamond. Maybe leave the trailhead at 2. A big part of that is trying to be the first group in the north chimney because I hate that thing and all the loose rock that people knock down. Halley is a much quicker hike and with a decent forecast you can leave bear lake around 4:30-5ish. Obviously as you get more familiar with the park and the weather you can be more flexible. We get some days in the park where the forecast says 0% of rain and I have left the trailhead at 6-7 but you run the risk of getting stuck behind groups. A funny side note. I have worked for the Colorado mountain school part time for 20 years and I worked with Eli a bunch when I was a new guide. I remember crashing at his house in Estes so we could take a group up longs and we would meet clients around 1-1:30 because they were often fairly slow on the hike. I remember walking into his kitchen at midnight and he’s frying up hamburgers and eating Ben and Jerry’s out of the container. That would have wrecked my guts but he was fine that day.

Dan Mydanswrote:

I remember crashing at his house in Estes so we could take a group up longs and we would meet clients around 1-1:30 because they were often fairly slow on the hike. I remember walking into his kitchen at midnight and he’s frying up hamburgers and eating Ben and Jerry’s out of the container. That would have wrecked my guts but he was fine that day.

Hugs to your bro, great memories!  "Stormin' the Castle"!

Cheers man! I hope you and your family are well down in PR