If I climb 5.9 at Sugarloaf and The Leap, what can I plan to climb in Yosemite Valley?

Hello! I've been cutting my teeth along Highway 50 and in 2-weeks I'll be climbing in The Valley for the first time. As the title states, I climb 5.9 at these crags, and I'm wondering what grade that might equate to in The Valley. The tentative plan is to climb After Six (5.7, 5 pitches) on day one to get a sense of the grading. If I feel as comfortable on Yosemite 5.7 as I do on Leap 5.7, I'm tempted to try Braille Book (5.8+, 6 pitches) on day two. Is this too ambitious?

I've done After Six and Braille Book and don't lead 5.9 at the Leap, Sugarloaf, etc. you'll be fine. I mean, Braille Book is an ass kicking for the moderate leader, other than becoming a wide wizard there's no getting around that, but you'll be fine. 

You do want some tiny nuts for Braille Book. 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

I've done After Six and Braille Book and don't lead 5.9 at the Leap, Sugarloaf, etc. you'll be fine. I mean, Braille Book is an ass kicking for the moderate leader, other than becoming a wide wizard there's no getting around that, but you'll be fine. 

You do want some tiny nuts for Braille Book. 

Cool. That makes me feel better. You never know where people are coming from in the comments section of a route. The comments under Braille Book got me kinda freakin’ out.

You should be fine on After 6.  The first pitch is slick but the friction gets much better afterwards.  Other routes to consider: Nutcracker (5.8), Super Slide (5.9 soft, if it's open), Caverns (5.8), Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), and Commitment (5.9)

I found Braille Book pretty stout.  IIRC, you want to be comfortable with some OW, Chimney, and Stemming for the crux section.

Looking good!

Do the 1st pitch of After 7, instead of the 1st pitch of After 6....its 5.8 but better quality and likely easier than that slick 1st pitch of After 6, lol.

After Six and Nutcracker . Have a great climb !

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

5.9 at the Leap won't really translate that much to Valley 5.9 crack but it'll give you confidence in Valley 5.7 stemming, but Sugarloaf 5.9 should be closer to valley crack climbing. 

Oh, hey J-Tree!

This is good to know. I've done very little straight-in crack climbing at either The Leap or Sugarloaf. It's almost all been liebacks, stemming, face, and chimney, all with minimal mandatory jamming.

John Rwrote:

Do the 1st pitch of After 7, instead of the 1st pitch of After 6....its 5.8 but better quality and likely easier than that slick 1st pitch of After 6, lol.

Love me an alternate start!

Gumby Kingwrote:

I found Braille Book pretty stout.  IIRC, you want to be comfortable with some OW, Chimney, and Stemming for the crux section.

I'm comfortable with chimney and stemming. Can't say I've done much off-width.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Well, then go git yer ass onto Traveler Buttress. (you can skip the first pitch if all you want is the offwidth "fun"

None of my buds wanna try it with me but it's high on the list   

I feel the ratings are comparable between 50 and the Valley. It’s just a little bit different type of climbing (especially the Leap) so start a little lower to get used to it. But it’s going to be HOT in the valley in 2 weeks. 120 opens on 6/10, so I’d go to Tuolumne instead. If you do go to the Valley look for shade, and/or get a crack of dawn start (hike to the base in the dark). For Tuolumne Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak or West Country on Pleasure Dome day 1, and Fairview Dome Regular Route day 2.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Buds sound like dead weight 

Well my main partner broke his ankle is still recovering (mentally). 

Wanna meet me there this weekend??

Gloweringwrote:

120 opens on 6/10, so I’d go to Tuolumne instead. 

Tremendous news!! Tuolumne is actually more attractive to me.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

This weekend is out for me as I have to work, but next weekend is Tuolumne's opening weekend so that's where all the (literally) cool kids will be

Right on. Sounds like I'll be there as well!

I made a similar transition a while back. Have you done a few single pitch 5.9s or are you solid on 5.9 when you're several pitches up? YMMV, but I would personally start conservative in the valley, and especially in Tuolumne. The climbing in the valley is a bit bolder than the leap and sugarloaf, and the technique requires more finesse, even if the rock looks similar. Tuolumne is valley grades at 9-10k feet, and a lot of runouts, depending on the route. Have fun man. There's nothing like the first climbing trip to Yosemite.