How Long Are You Allowed to Rest on a Ledge to Still Qualify as a Send

Adam Rwrote:

If we hadn't run out of everything else to talk about and then run that back double a few times already we would not be talking about tradi. He's a part of the culture or the meta and that's all we terminally on mp ppl have. It's unfortunate really. 

I disagree with you that because we are talking about him still that that is evidence towards the fact he can not be replicated by an idiot.

Nah fam, idiots are incapable of conjuring the emotion that Tradi evoked.…as is actually evident by the 15 page thread. 

I see that I'm weighing in pretty late, but...

The availability of rests is part of the YDS metric. If you fail or refuse use the rests on the route, then it will feel harder than its true grade. Not using a perfectly good natural rest stance (or seat) is as telltale a sign of a professional toproper as a chalkbag clipped to a gear loop.

Logan Petersonwrote:

I see that I'm weighing in pretty late, but...

The availability of rests is part of the YDS metric. If you fail or refuse use the rests on the route, then it will feel harder than its true grade. Not using a perfectly good natural rest stance (or seat) is as telltale a sign of a professional toproper as a chalkbag clipped to a gear loop.

The question isnt about whether to use it or not. What is up for debate is how LONG can you use such rest.

This is an incredibly stupid troll thread that ought to embarrass any reasonably experienced climber.

Mike-Mayhemwrote:

The question isnt about whether to use it or not. What is up for debate is how LONG can you use such rest.

Seeing that the likelihood of this being an earnest post has increased, I would like to ask a followup question.

You propose that resting too long on a route should result in a lead send being downticked as a toprope send.

 Why should decreased physical difficulty yield a reclassification of decreased mental difficulty / decreased safety?

Why not say "that 5.12a you rest-pointed is really a 5.10d now because you made it physically easier?"

No gotez consented to being photographed in this reply. 

My husband told me today that in the early 70s, he would sometimes pass Fritz Weissner and his partner sitting on a ledge of a multipitch route in the Gunks, having lunch. No information on if he still considered the route a redpoint.

Mike-Mayhemwrote:

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send

Clearly you don’t know how top level sport climbers operate. Go tell Adam Ondra or Margo Hayes their 5.15 sends don’t count because they rested too long. You can find unedited videos on YouTube of top level climbers redpointing hard routes, they rest for 15-20 minutes on the wall, it’s just that the long rests are edited out of the send videos to make them more concise.

Jack Bushwaywrote:

Clearly you don’t know how top level sport climbers operate. Go tell Adam Ondra or Margo Hayes their 5.15 sends don’t count because they rested too long. You can find unedited videos on YouTube of top level climbers redpointing hard routes, they rest for 15-20 minutes on the wall, it’s just that the long rests are edited out of the send videos to make them more concise.

We've already covered this point, please review pages 1 and 2 of the thread. I feel we are closing in on a final verdict and I just want to make sure we stay on the course

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

The 14+ pages of people still talking about Tradi would beg to differ   

Did Tradi go somewhere?  Honestly, until someone brings him up I don't remember him.  

phylp phylpwrote:

My husband told me today that in the early 70s, he would sometimes pass Fritz Weissner and his partner sitting on a ledge of a multipitch route in the Gunks, having lunch. No information on if he still considered the route a redpoint.

Wow this opens a whole new can of worms! How long can you technically take between pitches on a multi pitch? Can you walk off the Rostrum at the ledge half way, only to hike back down and complete the route the next day and still call it a send?

These are the questions that keep me up at night.

Mike-Mayhemwrote:

Wow this opens a whole new can of worms! How long can you technically take between pitches on a multi pitch? Can you walk off the Rostrum at the ledge half way, only to hike back down and complete the route the next day and still call it a send?

These are the questions that keep me up at night.

We bailed after the crux and back to the ledge due to a party of Europeans aiding the top half... I consider myself still on the onsight and I will return to finish it next valley trip.

Erik Misiakwrote:

We bailed after the crux and back to the ledge due to a party of Europeans aiding the top half... I consider myself still on the onsight and I will return to finish it next valley trip.

That's the spirit! Bravo!

Were the Europeans hauling a bag? You know just for practice? 

Guy Keeseewrote:

Were the Europeans hauling a bag? You know just for practice? 

There was a person in the bag getting a clean accent via french free rules.    

Climb smarter, not harder.