New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #29

has time to do some picking on the beach this evening. 

Lori, I have about 40 degrees of hip turnout and still keep my hips in.  It is just a matter of standing up straight.  Which of course, takes all the stress off your fingers/arms.   Try straightening your knees, not your hips.  The one should follow the other.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Guy, we have a famous off width pitch on Cannon cliff  called the half moon pitch. it's about 400ft off the deck but the off width pitch is only about 50ft. 

Vertigo!  Super climb. Here's a photo i took from near the top of the half moon crack: 

GO

(edited to put photo inline)

Got out of Barrow for a conference down south (it’s all down south from here). From the land of the midnight sun to the land of two setting suns. I’m sure some in this group have climbed here. Recognize the watermelon light on the edge of this city?

Well, the bouldering comp was fun. I came fifth. Also last. But first to third were all younger than 50 so IF the over sixty group had remained I would have come second. Also last.
The majority of the problems I couldn’t do were either ones requiring weird, twisty positions and flexibility or ones with either a swing or run and jump to start. You know, that silly parkour style that’s become prevalent in the indoor bouldering scene of late.
I partially dislocated my shoulder falling off a problem ten seconds from the end of the round.
No comp pics so I’ll post of pic of me starting out on The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, a worldwide bike riding even to raise awareness for men’s mental health and prostate cancer. 550 bikes entered in Adelaide.

‘Twas a fun weekend. 

You should have worn the candy striped tights.. 

Oh crap, sorry about the dislocated shoulder, Carl. Hope it heals quickly and fully. 

Speaking of which, Nick, how is yours?  Is there anything to be done about it? 

GO

GabeO wrote:

Vertigo!  Super climb. Here's a photo i took from near the top of the half moon crack: 

https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/105997352_large_1558388968.jpg

GO

Excellent photo, Gabe.

I didn't catch thatCarl. sorry you messed up your shoulder!

 gabe. my shoulders are tender. i have not had them checked out. I try to do PT every day.  I am a working stiff that can't afford to go to the doctor. 

Nick:  Gotcha.  Hope the PT does the trick and keeps them functional enough.

Thanks, Alan!  It was many years ago, but I think I was very happy to get a little small gear in a separate crack before leaving the wide.  The wide crack felt plenty secure, but with zero gear for much of the pitch, I was certainly happy to get a little gear before stopping to futz with my camera.  

I enjoyed the pics you showed from your recent climbing trip.  Is that anywhere near your family in PA?

Nick, you mentioned Escalante.  Is this the Escalante Canyon near Grand Junction?  I used to enjoy that place a lot when I lived in CO.  Like a miniature Indian Creek, but shorter, less developed, and quite a bit wilder.  Many of the climbs have a bit of a "western" quality to them.  A little loose rock, a funky crack switch, a bit of mud, a start through some junk to get to the real climbing.  That kind of thing.  Possibly just enough to keep the number of climbers down a little.

Here's a fun (but too short) overhanging thin hands I did there:

Crack is my favorite type of climbing.

GO

Carl Schneider wrote:I partially dislocated my shoulder falling off a problem ten seconds from the end of the round.

Rest your shoulder a week or two. One of my younger partners also hurt his shoulder on a steep overhang. Cut foot and hung on with one arm. Tried to climb through it and made it worse. Had to take off two weeks.

Nick and Carl, lay off climbing too until your shoulders feel “super strong”. When they heal properly, they should feel very strong, like superman.

Tender is still okay, but you need to rest. Give it two weeks or more. Increase your gelatine or collagen.

Agree with Nick, those candy striped pants, definitely!   

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

You should have worn the candy striped tights.. 

yeah I know. 

Gabe, We were at Smokehoke Canyon/ Reeds Creek---parallel canyons ( eastern canyons, not western ones!!!), which are in West Virginia, a valley east of Seneca. While not nearly as extensive or as consistently high quality of the New or the Red,  still very good and accessible climbing ( mainly sport) and no crowds. Fun place.

If I had to guess I would say that was somewhere in Utah???  1996 and i still drank then....  it was part of an extended road trip.....  10a crack roadside. 

I bumped into this picture this morning dated May 2022. I remember being determined to scramble up to this amphitheater on my own to see what was up there but I backed off on the very last step up. I just couldn’t guarantee that I could safely walk off, so I turned back and scrambled to the ground… it has been a mystery ever since.

The crack is called the Ayatollah, which I understand is going to be too difficult for me, but I think there are some other good routes up there. And I think it’s a sacred place so I’m looking forward to seeing it soon. 

I am still not contemplating leading for a whole bunch of reasons, but having some self rescue skills would be really helpful. Sometimes I hit a dead end on a scramble when I’m out exploring just because I’m not sure I could lower down safely. What if I carried some different size cams and slings? Even if I had to sacrifice a piece of gear and retrieve it later.  Up seems always easier than down.

On my little journey as a top roper, there are whole pieces of knowledge and skill that I have missed. For instance, arriving at the base of run for your life, there’s a 20 foot drop off that I wouldn’t feel good about down climbing on my own. I figured out how to anchor a rope and use my gri gri to get myself off that ledge (so I could pee in private.) I hate being dependent upon anyone to help me off a ledge—I should be able to handle this myself. Over on Good To The Last Drop, I got anxious sitting on that ledge alone with no way down. Maybe this summer I can learn how to have an exit plan when I need or want to get to the ground safely.

—-

Totally not Climbing related but definitely a frustrating topic… I love my State and I have never complained about prices in California being a little higher. I got hit with two bills this week, my house insurance is $3000 a year and our car insurance is now 4200 a year—due NOW, not in payments. We’re talking no claims on the house And no accidents with the cars. I was sure I could shop around even though I have been with Farmers for 40 years. Turns out most insurance companies have pulled out of California for property insurance and even competitors advised me to pay that bill on time and don’t make a stink about it . My farmers agent told me do not file a claim unless the house burns down.  if I do, I will be history.

Here is what is really outrageous… the Premium on my home was based upon a claim filed by the previous owner just before we bought the house. I was told the policy follows the home, not the owner… The amount will go down in a year.  But for now I’m paying for the previous owner’s claim. 

Lori Milas wrote:

I am still not contemplating leading for a whole bunch of reasons, but having some self rescue skills would be really helpful. Sometimes I hit a dead end on a scramble when I’m out exploring just because I’m not sure I could lower down safely. What if I carried some different size cams and slings? Even if I had to sacrifice a piece of gear and retrieve it later.  Up seems always easier than down.

Leading comes with time. If you get bored with top roping, that’s when it makes sense to think about lead.

I’ve become quite the coward in my old age, and not sure I’ll ever lead anything “exciting” again. Gym leading and sport leading are much safer than gear placement leads, and I feel sort of like I enjoy that.

My daughter calls my fear “self preservation”.  As we age, we gain wisdom it seems. Or rather, in my case my body gains the wisdom as my mind deteriorates.   

Totally not Climbing related but definitely a frustrating topic… I love my State and I have never complained about prices in California being a little higher. I got hit with two bills this week, my house insurance is $3000 a year and our car insurance is now 4200 a year—due NOW, not in payments. We’re talking no claims on the house And no accidents with the cars. I was sure I could shop around even though I have been with Farmers for 40 years. Turns out most insurance companies have pulled out of California for property insurance and even competitors advised me to pay that bill on time and don’t make a stink about it . My farmers agent told me do not file a claim unless the house burns down.  if I do, I will be history.

Are you living in the one mansion in Joshua tree with the Bentley parked in the driveway?

Here is what is really outrageous… the Premium on my home was based upon a claim filed by the previous owner just before we bought the house. I was told the policy follows the home, not the owner… The amount will go down in a year.  But for now I’m paying for the previous owner’s claim. 

I never knew that, but I suppose that makes sense?

Li Hu wrote:

Leading comes with time. If you get bored with top roping, that’s when it makes sense to think about lead.

I’ve become quite the coward in my old age, and not sure I’ll ever lead anything “exciting” again. Gym leading and sport leading are much safer than gear placement leads, and I feel sort of like I enjoy that.

My daughter calls my fear “self preservation”.  As we age, we gain wisdom it seems. Or rather, in my case my body gains the wisdom as my mind deteriorates.   

Are you living in the one mansion in Joshua tree with the Bentley parked in the driveway?

I never knew that, but I suppose that makes sense?

In a way, Li Hu, I’m glad I didn’t grow up with the cowboys because I would always feel less than for not leading. During my time of hand-wringing I did about a dozen mock leads on a very loose second rope.  All I felt was annoyed.  There is a route here called White lightning and I brought my rack and was prepared to experience the thrill, but it wore me out hanging there by one hand in that crack while I fiddled around with various cams.  Stopping every seven or 8 feet to place more gear just inhibited my flow.   After judiciously placing gear all the way to the top and lowering down, I said “that was not fun.”.

Rgold settled it for me early on when he generously described reasons for leading or not. We’re not in Yosemite here—I’m not needed to swap leads on a multi pitch. Other than enjoying the thrill of leading a route it’s not a requirement in Joshua Tree.  

Also, we are at this stage of life where It’s really important to be clear about priorities. I sold my motorcycle because I didn’t love it enough to sacrifice a hip. Even when I’m out scrambling alone it’s a constant dialogue – – how important is making this dicey move to me?  If I fell and snapped an ankle would I regret the decision?  

And what do we really want out of Climbing? It should be an easy answer, but it’s not. I want to climb figures on a landscape someday and I don’t care if it’s on a top rope. I want to put my hands and feet on that rock and dance. 

—-

Also, I feel a little better having seen some hot shots miserably fail here even on a top rope.  I had a friend visit who came here specifically to lead some 5.10 routes. It turned out she was not in any shape to lead anything and actually didn’t do well just sitting on the rocks watching others climb.  I am continually amazed at the many skills needed to enjoy a day out in the desert.

OMG. In my other life I would have a Bentley. It’s the only car I ever coveted.  

Lori Milas wrote:

Totally not Climbing related but definitely a frustrating topic… I love my State and I have never complained about prices in California being a little higher. I got hit with two bills this week, my house insurance is $3000 a year and our car insurance is now 4200 a year—due NOW, not in payments. We’re talking no claims on the house And no accidents with the cars. I was sure I could shop around even though I have been with Farmers for 40 years. Turns out most insurance companies have pulled out of California for property insurance and even competitors advised me to pay that bill on time and don’t make a stink about it . My farmers agent told me do not file a claim unless the house burns down.  if I do, I will be history.

Here is what is really outrageous… the Premium on my home was based upon a claim filed by the previous owner just before we bought the house. I was told the policy follows the home, not the owner… The amount will go down in a year.  But for now I’m paying for the previous owner’s claim. 

Lori, suggest you consider shopping around.   If AMICA writes policies in your area that might be a good place to start.  We've been with them for years.  Our policies (autos, teardrop trailer, bicycles, homeowners and umbrella) renew in June and the overall increase is 3.4%.  Homeowners is actually decreasing.  I'm skeptical that the policy follows the home. 

Lori Milas wrote:

Totally not Climbing related but definitely a frustrating topic… I love my State and I have never complained about prices in California being a little higher. I got hit with two bills this week, my house insurance is $3000 a year and our car insurance is now 4200 a year—due NOW, not in payments. We’re talking no claims on the house And no accidents with the cars. I was sure I could shop around even though I have been with Farmers for 40 years. Turns out most insurance companies have pulled out of California for property insurance and even competitors advised me to pay that bill on time and don’t make a stink about it . My farmers agent told me do not file a claim unless the house burns down.  if I do, I will be history.

Here is what is really outrageous… the Premium on my home was based upon a claim filed by the previous owner just before we bought the house. I was told the policy follows the home, not the owner… The amount will go down in a year.  But for now I’m paying for the previous owner’s claim. 

Lori, I feel your pain.

We are also covered by Farmers for our homeowner's policy and our premium doubled this year also.

Over 30 years of coverage thru them here and never have filed a claim. 

We live on acreage east of Redding and are in what they now classified as a high-risk area for wildfires which I suppose we are.

Problem is the insurance companies don't actually come out to inspect the individual properties for fire safety protocol,

if you have a property within the designated area, you are high-risk and will pay for it or be cancelled period.

Having been a wildland firefighter during my college years, I know what keeping a property fire safe entails.

We have kept our property fire safe by removing trees and brush near the house, keep the grasses mown down and even have a sprinkler system installed on our roof in case it's needed. 

These measures mean nothing to them and the increases we are seeing now is them covering their asses for all the claims they paid out (pennies on the dollar) for the devastating fires of the past 5 years.

Some of our neighbors in this area have had their coverage cancelled and are finding it difficult if not impossible to replace.

FWIW, I wouldn't count on your bill going down next year or anytime soon.

End of rant.

 Hang tough, Tad 

I figured it  had something to do with wild fires. my home insurance is $65.00 a month..