Anyone into Sewing?
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What are the dimensions of the stuff sacks you guys are making? Diameter*height |
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Erik Jwrote: Erik, it varies for me - I've made 3 sizes: -One for a 20m, 5mm Beal backup line (13.5" circumference, 9" height) -Another for a 30m, 6mm Petzl RAD line (15.75" circumference, 10.5" height) -A third, larger stuff sack, which fits either line, or a 40m Beal backup line, plus my crevasse kit (19.25" circumference, 12" height) |
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More fiddling with using recycled rope as a material. Belts are easy peasy, chalk bags a bit less so but the third one I've made is looking pretty solid. Pictured is my first prototype, I got too excited and put the liner in before adding a draw string and brush holder so I'll have to do some stitch ripping. I got some grommets for the drawstring but they're a bit too wide to fit onto a single width of rope, so I'll have to downsize or put it in between the stitching. Once the season picks up here in Squamish I'll be puttering about the smoke bluffs selling these on rest days. I'm curious about how much people think I should charge for them? |
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More or less finished my first bag the other day. Super stoked on it, lots I want to change but I'll take it out on some adventures first before tweaking it and eventually making a second version with an updated design. It's made with Xpac vx21, 210d hdpe gridstop, spacer mesh, and venom stretch mesh from RSBTR. The main compartment is about 20l and weighs ~380g. After browsing around on here, other forums, and taking a tape measure to the local outdoor shop for design ideas, (@Mike J, never got your email - I think by now if it was in my spam it's gone. Thanks though, your bags were great inspiration!) I started by drawing some shapes in Fusion, and making them out of cardboard to get a feel for sizing. I went through about 4 or 5 designs until I settled on this one. The vest straps were the most intimidating so I copied the shape from a running vest I own. Overall very pleased with how it came out. I need to redesign the vest pockets (openings are too small, lower pockets are too deep/wide), and the layout of the top area of the bag - it cinches oddly when the bag isn't full. The zipper pocket will move down so it's part of the back panel instead of sticking out ontop (it's wayy too high right now), and I'll do some sort of pleats to make the pocket not crumple when cinched. Gear loops will move from the bottom of the vest pockets to the bottom of the rear wings. I designed and 3d printed these hooks for the front - just quit my job so won't have access to a 3d printer in the future :( I'm printing out a bunch of notions for future projects before I leave! I'm looking for some of this daisy chain stuff on my arcteryx bag for my next project. From what I can tell, it's webbing with a built in bolt rope daisy chain on one side; the webbing is sewn into a seam, and the "bolt rope" stick out as a light duty daisy chain. Anyone know what it's called or where I can find some? If anyone's interested in the files for the bag dimensions or the bungee clips fire me a pm :) |
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https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/cord-loop-webbing/ Unfortunately, this is the only place I have found that sells anything close to what you are looking for. Instead of this, I usually just use half inch webbing for a daisy chain instead. |
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claimed |
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A quick snack bag for longer routes. Used one of these on RNWF last year (no backpack) which was really nice. pictured with a rain jacket, 3-4 bars and some sunscreen
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I have a pile of old harnesses and webbing 0.5-2” that is still in great shape but is older than dirt. Any ideas what could be done with it? On a random note, some of those old harnesses are a really interesting combination of super bomber and super sketchy. 3” heavy steel buckles and webbing combined with super sloppy stitching. |
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J.Frostwrote: @cactustopine specializes in up-cycling all kinds of old climbing gear. She will salvage the buckles and anything else useful from old gear you send her. https://www.instagram.com/cactus_to_pine/ |
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Anyone use a serger? I've never used one. Thinking about getting one to make power stretch tights, and full weight fleece jackets. Wondering if Brother 1034 will handle these, or welcome other input. |
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I’ve used one but don’t own one, worked great to shorten some base layer pants into ski boot length with a stretch bottom and no thick hem. Powerstretch tights are awesome! I’ve got an ancient set from Lowe Alpine and a newer Patagonia set. It’s wild that these aren’t more popular. |
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I've been reading and watching a few videos, ordered a Brother 1034DX off ebay manufacturer refurbish with warranty, $200. Hopefully will open a few doors for things I've wanted to make for years. Next question is about fabrics. I have been out of sewing for close to 30 years, and have not kept up on fabrics at all. I want to make sun hoodies, but NOT ANYTHING LIKE the nasty stretchy things that are marketed as such.!!! Not a knit, but a light weight hard weave with a bit of stretch. Maybe sort of between a poly/cotton button down shirt and patagonia houdini type fabric, but very breathable and cool on the skin. Any recommendations? |
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mountainhickwrote: a bit ot, but it would be cool if someone made sun hoodies that have a nice breathable section in the armpit region and maybe a bit more opportunity for ventilation in the head area while wearing a helmet. i've found the current generation of sun hoodies (own patagucci, tnf, columbia, or, and a couple of others) rather hot... |
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old5tenwrote: The Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro has ventilation in the pits, but none in the hood. I always appreciate the pit vents, because I'm a sweaty person. Just today I liked not having ventilation in the hood in the morning when it was a bit chilly, but would have really appreciated them later in the day when it was warm. I think ventilation in the hood at the top where the helmet goes would be ideal, since it would vent the heat that builds up inside the helmet, but doesn't expose any skin to direct wind, because your helmet is there to block the wind. Also, I don't have hair on my head to stop any wind :D |
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mountainhickwrote: Check out Patagonia's Airshed fabric - I think that's what you're looking for. Unfortunately, they don't make the classic Airshed pullover, but have other variants with the Airshed fabric in the body. It is extremely light and versatile. Breaks the wind. Cooler than a Patagonia sun hoody. Also super comfy next to skin and mosquito proof. I don't know where they source it or if there is any way to buy that exact fabric, but it might get you on the path. I bought a prototype Hooded Airshed on Ebay - happy to share photos or take measurements for you if you get that far. |
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I could put this in the classifieds but i figure there might be more interest here. I have this Juki ddl-555 machine that I’ve had for 20 years or more but don’t really use it much anymore so i thought see if anyone is looking for a strong sewing machine. I am in the Teton area. Asking $400 for this beast. |
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I love this thread so much. |
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Seigi Kwrote: I bought a full sheet of 1 inch 2.2LB polyethylene and was able to make 1 blubber and 2 slider pads with 600d polyester on sale from Rockywoods. The actual sewing was straight forward but takes a little patience to figure out where to put the straps and such https://www.thefoamfactory.com/closedcellfoam/polyethylene.html#2-2-density Some more info from the foam pros: https://www.thefoamfactory.com/blog/index.php/climb-higher-with-confidence-using-bouldering-crash-pads |
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Sarah Walkerwrote: This is great - thanks so much! |
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Why the long face? Because nobody has posted on the sewing thread for over 1 month! Hopefully it's because you're all busy climbing! Here's the one-and-only Will Sew For Bolts horse halter made from retired rope. See all our creations at Will Sew For Bolts on FB and IG. Help us turn old rope into new bolts. |


















