Tahquitz routes for big wall training?

Ryan Lynch wrote:

Kevin, you seem upset that your advice wasn't useful to me... Would you believe that our interaction hasn't exactly been fun for me, either?

If this is the price of your advice, then truly -- you can keep it. I'll be fine without your help.

And really... Is giving advice to strangers on the Internet really the crucial part of YOUR life? Seems best for both of us to let it go.

Dude you literally ASKED for advice! Kevin has done a ton of walls, is a fixture in the community and has helped tons of people figure out systems and approaches. His advice was GREAT.

At what point will you realize its a YOU problem not an US problem?

Ryan Lynch wrote:

Kevin, you seem upset that your advice wasn't useful to me... Would you believe that our interaction hasn't exactly been fun for me, either?

If this is the price of your advice, then truly -- you can keep it. I'll be fine without your help.

And really... Is giving advice to strangers on the Internet really the crucial part of YOUR life? Seems best for both of us to let it go.

People- I think this “person” is one of Tradi’s deed fake accounts…. Tradi is a masterful manipulator of internet things. I have been trolled by him before. I took the bait- I was hauled into his net and cleaned and cooked… 

Because we are good people and know a thing or three about how dangerous Wall climbing can be and do not want to see anyone die we all fell for the bait.

Tradi is now using AI to get to US. It’s brilliant absolutely brilliant.

My hat is off to him. 

Ryan Lynch wrote:

Kevin, you seem upset that your advice wasn't useful to me... Would you believe that our interaction hasn't exactly been fun for me, either?

If this is the price of your advice, then truly -- you can keep it. I'll be fine without your help.

And really... Is giving advice to strangers on the Internet really the crucial part of YOUR life? Seems best for both of us to let it go.

Guy Keesee wrote:

People- I think this “person” is one of Tradi’s deed fake accounts…. Tradi is a masterful manipulator of internet things. I have been trolled by him before. I took the bait- I was hauled into his net and cleaned and cooked… 

I think Guy has figured this out...really there is no other logical explanation.

Only marginally related but since everyone's here, just a heads up that a significant rockfall event occurred on Whodunit last winter. Check the comment on the route page for the deets.

...

This thread sure escalated. We hauled a bag up Serpentine for practice a while back. It ended up paying off bigtime as we successfully bailed off the Nose without incident just a few weeks later.

JT… why didn’t you “just bail upwards?”

Happy to have you back!

Totally on topic: why did ya bail?

No shame in it, I have turned tail like 4 times. 

Hey Guy!

A fair question and one that I can answer without any reservation or ragrets. To put it simply, we ran out of beans on Sickle Ledge. We had like 8 cans but it was incredible the caloric intake needed by our famished corpses after accomplishing 1 pitch every 3 hours. I firmly believe to continue on at this point, would be sheer madness.

...

...

lol, in actuality, it was snowing quite a lot on our way up to Sickle that fine spring day. As you can see above, we had a swanky ledge+fly, and did all right, but it was pretty intimidating to be so exposed in the elements. I think the instinct to be a little more conservative in your decision-making is a good one for wall newbies.

Lot of good advice in this thread too. I think the salient points here are to be safe, have fun, try hard, and have fun !!

jt newgard wrote:

Hey Guy!

A fair question and one that I can answer without any reservation or ragrets. To put it simply, we ran out of beans on Sickle Ledge. We had like 8 cans but it was incredible the caloric intake needed by our famished corpses after accomplishing 1 pitch every 3 hours. I firmly believe to continue on at this point, would be sheer madness.

...

...

Eating a can of beans in a portaledge while wearing a headlamp and prescription sunglasses at night. Classic JT. 

Where is Ryan??
Hay Ryan, didn’t mean to harsh you, sorry.
This is the “aid wall” just off of the road to Mineral King. Really short hike, it’s steep and the rock is bullet hard. I was sent these photos a few months ago by someone who was looking for information. The old ass bolts on this sucker have been replaced recently. It’s just what you wish for, steep and fairly tall (exposed) you can get the el cap experience. One can bivi lower down the road at an abandoned highway maintenance yard (out of sight).
Expecting a thorough trip report ASAP.

If you come to MP with aid climbing questions you will get good answers.

Cheers 

Just go do a night ascent of The Goof Proof Roof up on the Indian Head in Josh. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Where is Ryan??

Climbing at Tahquitz, and then sidelined by a medical problem... I did scout some routes mentioned by the (helpful) folks, earlier on this thread, before we all got derailed by feelings.

I also ran into a party aiding their way up Vampire, with a haul bag in tow, and got some more suggestions on haulable routes.

Tl;Dr, it's gonna be fine.... Tahquitz has plenty of options for mock BW expeditions, all Summer long.

This is the “aid wall” just off of the road to Mineral King.

Sounds like a great spot -- I do really wish I had the option to get up to Mineral King for practice.

If you come to MP with aid climbing questions you will get good answers.

I do get plenty of good answers on MP, in between the shitheads  

And that's pretty much in line with my expectations, TBH. I can't imagine anyone would seriously describe the Climbing Community as "well adjusted"... We all understand that Climbers grew up from a certain kind of kid:

• Sucked at real sports
• Lacked the social acumen to fit into normal activities
• Single welfare mothers and/or deadbeat, unemployable, prison-bound fathers
• Ratty, unkempt haircuts and clothes
• Smelled kinda funny, even right after they took shower

And then you add in the degradation due to decades of exposure to the Climbing Lifestyle:

• Repeated low-grade head trauma
• Self-medication with drugs & alcohol
• Chronic underemployment and poverty
• Limited access to medical and dental care
• Social isolation
• Substandard nutrition and hygeine
• Limited or non-existent romantic options with members of the opposite sex -- or of ANY sex, if we're honest

We don't need Forum Moderators, here -- we need Licensed Social Workers.

Tony Sartin wrote:

Just go do a night ascent of The Goof Proof Roof up on the Indian Head in Josh. 

Thanks for the suggestion, Tony... This looks amazing:

• https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106360299/goof-proof-roof

I won't be able to make it to JT for an overnight, anytime soon... But it's definitely going at the top of my to-do list, next trip.

Ryan Lynch wrote:

If this is the price of your advice, then truly -- you can keep it. I'll be fine without your help.

And really... Is giving advice to strangers on the Internet really the crucial part of YOUR life? Seems best for both of us to let it go.

Hey Ryan! You seem extremely pleasant to be around and very open to learning and constructive criticism. Mentorship is so important and special in climbing it’s nice to see such an eager up and comer so refreshingly receptive to feedback. I would love to donate personal time and energy into teaching you some Yosemite wall techniques. Please just let me know when and where!

Tanner James wrote:

Hey Ryan! You seem extremely pleasant to be around and very open to learning and constructive criticism. Mentorship is so important and special in climbing it’s nice to see such an eager up and comer so refreshingly receptive to feedback. I would love to donate personal time and energy into teaching you some Yosemite wall techniques. Please just let me know when and where!

Tanner James wrote:

Hey Ryan! You seem extremely pleasant to be around and very open to learning and constructive criticism. Mentorship is so important and special in climbing it’s nice to see such an eager up and comer so refreshingly receptive to feedback. I would love to donate personal time and energy into teaching you some Yosemite wall techniques. Please just let me know when and where!

He's willing to climb with you provided you weren't raised by a single mother!

Tanner your response was perfect!

Ryan your post above was inappropriate and not received kindly.

Were you the team coming down from Lily early Sunday morning with a full-sized pig? Didn't even say "good morning!" 

Hey Ryan, as an avid big wall climber who lives close to you, I was eager to reach out and share info until I saw your nasty comments. Part of the reason why I climb is to get away from people like you. I hope I never run into you at Tahquitz.

-Someone raised by loving parents

DionAkers wrote:

Were you the team coming down from Lily early Sunday morning with a full-sized pig? Didn't even say "good morning!" 

My buddy and i were coming down Sun AM (around 645) after having climbed through the night for giggles.  I can't imagine anyone but us were descending that morning with haul bags.

I believe we met three parties coming up.  

- 1st group of two had an interesting interaction with.  More below.

- 2nd group was cordial and we shared some good laughs about our packs and the silliness of climbing all night.  I don't think they had climbing gear, but appeared knowledgeable on the subject.

- 3rd group was i think 3 folks with a 4th person a little bit behind.  I don't remember too much but i think they were trucking uphill and not much was said (thet were focused on going up, us on going down)  If this was your group and we (my friend i), did not exchange pleasant greetings I'm very sorry for that with no excuse and can only offer that it was nothing against you.

Now, back to the 1st group:

- My friend and i each had a fully loaded haul bag and were pretty gingerly going downhill (34 minute pace from lunch rock to parking area, not fast).  

- I generally let folks going DOWNHILL have right of way since its harder to stop when going down and easy for uphill traffic to stop and enable downhill to go past.  I also can see how folks working hard going up should expect those easily coming down to step aside to allow easy passage for the uphill.  

- I have now googled this question, so know what the internet says, but in the world of grey areas and steep approach trails:  if you have a huge haul bag, should folks generally give you the right of way, regardless of up or down hill travel?  If two haul bags meet, who moves out of the way?

- if I'm AFU in my thought process, happy to be corrected and sincerely apologize to 1st group for making it wierd.  

PS, my friend and i were both tired by that point and may not have had the sharpest memory (and may have been sleepwalking)

PPS, we didn't do any hauling, just trucked a lot of shit up there for funsies

Cheers,

Dave