Petzl connect adjust, mod etc

How are all you petzl connect users attaching your new thinner cords to your harnesses?  
Are you tying in like a lead rope? Or tying an eye and girth hitching?  

I really like tying in using a bowline with a Yosemite finish for each of my daises. (Maybe also called Bowline follow throw?) This is a “shorter” knot than a figure 8 or girth hitch and I find it much smoother than having both daises on the same piece of cord. Added bonus that they don’t weld super tight. Another bonus of thinner cord is a smaller knot to get you closure to your piece and have less bulk 

Skot Richards wrote:

How are all you petzl connect users attaching your new thinner cords to your harnesses?  
Are you tying in like a lead rope? Or tying an eye and girth hitching?  

I have it tied with a overhand follow through and have it clinched down extra tight, it's permanently on my harness. 

Edit:

Just got some 20mm webbing today and it fits over my 6.8mm half well and will serve to protect it from abrasion when I'm climbing wide, I'll be doing some fine tuning with the length and melting/sewing the end with the rope. Time will tell how well it will stay clinched but I'll keep an eye on it. 

that guy named seb wrote:

I have it tied with a overhand follow through and have it clinched down extra tight, it's permanently on my harness. 

Clove hitch to belay loop, single strand of 7mm cord to two petzl connects. 

Eric 

Cock Ring & Clove has worked great for a few seasons.

Now considering the overhand follow through after seeing the above. 

Anyone use edelrid slider lockers in their adjusts? When clipping to anchors or jumars I like to rotate the biner so it is basket side down. Will rotating the biner through the adjust interfere with the locking mechanism?  

Matt Schilowitz wrote:

Anyone use edelrid slider lockers in their adjusts? When clipping to anchors or jumars I like to rotate the biner so it is basket side down. Will rotating the biner through the adjust interfere with the locking mechanism?  

I really like my oval slider on my adjust but that's just used as Pas. 

Isaac Leija wrote:

Cock Ring & Clove has worked great for a few seasons.

Now considering the overhand follow through after seeing the above. 

That looks nice and clean with the clove hitch.  Those C Rings sure are a convenient option for a harness that doesn’t have a stock 2nd belay loop..   Also with the Yates Shield it provides a belay loop alt. that isnt so freakin wide like it’s stock loop.  
Has that same piece of cord been in use for a couple of seasons or were you referring to just that method of attaching the Evolv Adjust?

Bug Boy wrote:

I really like tying in using a bowline with a Yosemite finish for each of my daises. (Maybe also called Bowline follow throw?) This is a “shorter” knot than a figure 8 or girth hitch and I find it much smoother than having both daises on the same piece of cord. Added bonus that they don’t weld super tight. Another bonus of thinner cord is a smaller knot to get you closure to your piece and have less bulk 

Are you tying into your harnesses hard points or to the belay loop?  Do you notice any abrasion on the harness/belay loop being caused by the Power Cord?  I’ve seen a “belay loop” made from a tied loop, of one of the tech cords, and it was causing some major abrasion (on the leg loops tie in point primarily).  

I think that’s officially the thinnest cord I have heard of anyone using.  Previously the Petzl Pur Line (6mm) had stood out as a really thin choice.
It seems like at some point the cord would get so thin that the discomfort from pulling on it would out weight the benefit from the reduction in friction.  Or maybe I’m just getting old…simply reading about it made my hands feel like they‘re going to need some Advil.  

Brian R wrote:

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It seems like at some point the cord would get so thin that the discomfort from pulling on it would out weight the benefit from the reduction in friction.  

that was my conclusion- at least for my Big Wall Harness.. I do have one rigged with 5.9mm PowerCord that I would use on a “in a day” or something with more free climbing. 

Brian R wrote:

Has that same piece of cord been in use for a couple of seasons or were you referring to just that method of attaching the Evolv Adjust?

Yes same 8mm cord has been used for 4-5 walls i believe. Just swapped it out last night for the cord Quinn suggests up thread. Nothing really wrong with it, but just for piece of mind. Driving to the valley in a few days.

Isaac Leija wrote:

Cock Ring & Clove has worked great for a few seasons.

Now considering the overhand follow through after seeing the above. 

How does the clove handle abrasion when in offwidths? There has been noticeable abrasion on my overhand follow through (hence the cover) and I imagine it would be even worse on a ring.

Or, do you just take off the ring when climbing wide? 

Isaac Leija wrote:

Yes same 8mm cord has been used for 4-5 walls i believe. Just swapped it out last night for the cord Quinn suggests up thread. Nothing really wrong with it, but just for piece of mind. Driving to the valley in a few days.

Sweet, I’ve already got some of that Blue water 8 mm cord on hand.

Brian R wrote:

Are you tying into your harnesses hard points or to the belay loop?  Do you notice any abrasion on the harness/belay loop being caused by the Power Cord?  I’ve seen a “belay loop” made from a tied loop, of one of the tech cords, and it was causing some major abrasion (on the leg loops tie in point primarily).  

I think that’s officially the thinnest cord I have heard of anyone using.  Previously the Petzl Pur Line (6mm) had stood out as a really thin choice.
It seems like at some point the cord would get so thin that the discomfort from pulling on it would out weight the benefit from the reduction in friction.  Or maybe I’m just getting old…simply reading about it made my hands feel like they‘re going to need some Advil.  

I tie  into the hard points with a seperate bowline+Yosemite finish for easy daisy. I can’t say I have noticed significant abrasion yet but also have only used this cord on around 20-30 pitches of aid but know of a handful of other people doing it.

I think that the reduced friction/force required to cinch the thinner cord outweighs the discomfort from the thinness but fingerless gloves are nice for more sustained aid regardless.

My recommendation would be to lead a pitch with “traditional” cord (whatever that may be) in one daisy and power cord in the other. I did this and really preferred how easy it was to cinch and loosen with the skinny cord.

that guy named seb wrote:

How does the clove handle abrasion when in offwidths? There has been noticeable abrasion on my overhand follow through (hence the cover) and I imagine it would be even worse on a ring.

Or, do you just take off the ring when climbing wide? 

The clove naturally hangs low when not in use so most of the abrasion I've seen is on the ring itself. 

I normally put some tight wraps of athletic tape for an easy visual inspection. (and locks in the knot weld)

I tried Quinn's overhand follow-through and liked it well enough (he did me justice on the whole rig). 

I just find the cock-ring is so much smoother when it rolls over from standing under the piece to over the piece. 

I have just slipped a small-loop alpine butterfly into the cock-ring. This gives you distinctive right and left sides. The clove looks nice too. 

Cheers from Osaka  

John Shultz wrote:

I have just slipped a small-loop alpine butterfly into the cock-ring.

Ooooo, good idea!

John Shultz wrote:

That looks really interesting, but is it safe??? 

Oftentimes, these things are the only thing standing between me and the abyss   

I guess you would just slide to the end of the tail if it jammed open... but still

I have personally fucked up that exact scenario, and fallen on my Adjust with the slide jammed open. It stopped on the stopper stitch at the end of the tail... It wasn't too rough. The included cord is pretty dynamic, and the end stitching didn't seem damaged -- but I guess I don't really know if it could have been worse.

If I ever replace the original cord, I'll definitely be careful about a few things... Whatever stopper knot I tied, I'd probably want to pre-load it with a few kN. Maybe give it some slow pull tests, or a drop test.

Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

This is the way I did it. Honestly you could even fit larger cord in it.

If you are fully free hanging, you can even clip a sling or your aid ladder into it to get more force into it/make it easier to release.

I do something similar, but with a smaller cord loop. Instead of pulling directly on the cord, I clip a carabiner onto it for a handle.

I think the cord alone works fine -- I just found the viner was a little easier on my fingers.