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Petzl connect adjust, mod etc
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honest Question: When the fuck is all this “releasing under tension” Happening ??? I dunno… it’s just not part of my flow.. the times I’ve needed to do it are minimal |
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For me this is the best cord for the Evolv
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Quinn Hatfieldwrote: Hanging belays, adjusting jumars after going over an overhanging section where I want the jumars closer to then going vert/low angle where I want it further away. I have a finger crack project with a roof that I'm not close to leading, so I top rope it and I use the daisy to pull myself into piece so I can clip the rope to it as I'm being lowered, which then necessitates releasing under tension. I could bring out the alfifi but that doesn't make much sense for a day of free climbing. There's no situation where you strictly need to release under tension, but there's a lot of situations where it makes your life a hell of a lot more convenient. |
Ricky Harlinewrote: So we agree… I do understand that we could over think and over complicate every aspect of BigWalling to the point where we could literally never succeed because of all the Faff.. I just choose not to… |
Quinn Hatfieldwrote: Having a device that releases under tension whether it's a Yates or Skot's or a modified Swing or that new Edelrid thingy is significantly less faff. It also saves a lot of energy. You are a strong dude. I am not. I choose to make my life both simpler and less physically taxing. |
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Camp Swing Related (but figured the individuals on this thread could answer my question). Working on a new route last weekend I brought my new Camp Swings out to test (had a backup pair of Yates adjustables just in case). Had some 8mm cord that seemed to not slip in my garage while I was drinking beer so I figured all was cool. Eventually I figure all was NOT cool as these things were slipping all over the place so I replaced with the Yates adjustables and moved on. Anyone know what cord REALLY works for these things and doesn't slip??? I am looking for a specific product (link would be great) that I can go out and purchase that will 100% work. My preference would be not to have to buy a frigging whole rope to do this. If that's the case I will bail on these, but I really do like the corded non-tangle aspect and would like to make it work. Any suggestions? Many thanks. JA |
Jeremy Aslaksenwrote: Idk about the Swing, but the Edelrid swift protect is a common go-to for the Petzl adjust, and Hownot2 sells it by the foot: hownot2.com/products/swift-… |
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Oh sh!t I was just about to buy a new rope, THANKS Big Red! ... P.S. love the garage test Jeremy, haha. The Swift being 8.9 mm is between the stock 9.7 mm the Swings come with and a thin 8.0 mm cord. Seems like the goldilocks zone for these things. |
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This cord has worked very well in my Evolve and My Camp Swings.. and I’m a Daisy Bouncing Big Boy |
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This has worked in the camps for me.. and I’m a Daisy-Bouncer!! (((((THE HORROR))))) But seriously, thanks for the help guys. I will buy some of that Swift cord and see how it works (fingers crossed). JA |
Quinn Hatfieldwrote: We may be talking about two different things here, but when I step high enough in my aiders such that my Alfifi has inverted and is holding an upward force, that's when I need to release it under the tension of that force to move onto the next piece that I place. Since I like the A4 so well (thanks Skot!!), my Yates adjustable daisies are now relegated to being the insurance that I won't drop an aider while leading. I adjust my Yates routinely when jumaring or being attached to an anchor, but it is usually pretty reasonable to do that when they are not under tension. That's the only "releasing under tension" that I can think of that happens during my flow, and the A4 does this beautifully. (Using the term "flow" to describe my movement when aid climbing may be a bit generous. :-) |
Brad Whitewrote: Brad- you and I are on the same page. I own multiple Alfifis and I’ve used some combination of an Alfifi and adjustable daisys on most of the dozen+ walls I’ve done since coming back to Big Walls.. Id put getting out of a tensioned top step as one of the exceptions to my rule, and maybe transitioning to free.. I just find that the way I usually do it, I’ve got a foot in the low aider and a hand on the high aider grab loop, and it’s easy to sag down a bit and pull the Alfifi off the low piece.. so at best- it’s not tensioned, and at worst it’s only partially tensioned.. Back in the day we used looped daisy’s and a fixed length FiFi.. so it’s possible that I am just old dogging this |
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Hi everyone, thanks for the input. Just to clear things up, the reason I don't use an adjustable fifi is that I just feel less comfortable testing when connected via a fifi and believe I undertest if connected to either the lower and/or higher piece using fifi(s). I also use adjustable daisies for clipping myself into anchors etc. so have them in place on the harness My climbing method (which might not be ideal, all comments welcomed) is: 1. march up ladder without adjusting the length of the connect (unless steep) 2. clip into the piece with 30cm adjustable draw. Basic a Yates style daisy terminating in a carabiner but only 30cm long 3. maybe march a little higher and pull draw tight if top stepping 4. place new piece and test 5. steep into higher ladder I like this method as: (i) it keeps me attached with a short draw whilst bouncing up and down; (ii) no need to pull slack through the length of a daisy, just a few centimetres through the draw; (iii) can't drop anything; (iv) relatively little stuff on the front of the harness; (v) removes that bad habit of step up one step, tighten daisy; step up another step, tighten daisy... (this helps me to just get on with it) On steep ground I do use the connects to progress, so it would be useful to release under partial load. Ditto various other situations: jugging moving around anchors etc. Although there is always a way around this, or a strong pull, at my age/weight/strength I find aid climbing is about avoiding effort of any kind and just gently walking up the wall (I often fail to make it look like that). |
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I think if you're finding yourself struggling while releasing something under 100% body weight commonly, you would be really surprised how many skills you could build taking an Aid clinic or finding a guide. :) |
Big Redwrote: I think the one that works is the non protect version of the swift. The protect one feeds like complete dog shit. Source: I bought an 80 and cut it down to a 60 and made daisies for me and my friends and they all work like dogshit. |
Ricky Harlinewrote: Huh, it works great for me... what is dogshit for y'all? |
Big Redwrote: It takes terribly, and pays out even more terribly. I showed Kevin DeWeese how dogshit it is once and he was impressed with how dogshit it was. It's pretty freakin terrible. Maybe the sheaths are different on our ropes somehow? That seems to be the problem. |
Ricky Harlinewrote: Yea that's odd, it's possible that we got ropes from different years and different weave patterns? I'm assuming you tried with different biners so that's not likely it. |
Big Redwrote: I am dumb and tired and bad at reading and thought we were talking about the Swing. I need to read more gooder, my bad. |
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Once you start using sub 7mm cord with the evolve, you’ll never go back. Yes, you have to replace it more often but it’s a pretty minor cost. I like the 5.9 mm power cord with mine. |
