How Reachy is the P5 Bolt Ladder on The Prow?

Hey Everyone. I'm not very tall at 5'4" tall and wondering if I'd have trouble with the reachy bolts on the P5 bolt ladder of The Prow even if on the top step. Just trying to gauge and get a better sense whether I'd need to plan a work around such as a cheater stick, find and have a taller partner lead the pitch, or plan to do a dynamic clip move. Thanks in advance.

Probably the original 1/4" bolts have been replaced with modern bolts. If they've all been replaced in the same location, you'll have no problem. I was probably peaking out at 5'2" when I did the route in the spring of 1976 and I don't remember having any trouble with it.

At our heights, we have to learn to live in our top steps!

It ain't no sin to take an extender either.

Mark Hudonwrote:

Probably the original 1/4" bolts have been replaced with modern bolts. If they've all been replaced in the same location, you'll have no problem. I was probably peaking out at 5'2" when I did the route in the spring of 1976 and I don't remember having any trouble with it.

At our heights, we have to learn to live in our top steps!

It ain't no sin to take an extender either.

Much appreciated Mark! And you're right, no shame in having a cheater stick considering I'd be aid climbing...lol

Mark I'm impressed! I'm 6'1" and was reaching from the 2nd step of my aiders on that pitch. Then again you're a legend and I'm a noob.

It's been a while but I think you're still clippin the split drives on that pitch! Now that is some real fine rock! Thanks RR

Have fun John. The Prow is a superb route.

Second the “superb route” recommendation.

fwiw, you may as well own a Kong so just make sure you have it before you head up there. Also fwiw, I totally spaced our #4’s and we never ended up needing them anyway. A single #3 should get you all the way to the top without serious struggle. Have fun!

My partner is 5'6" with a negative 1.5" ape. She used a stiffy draw for the bolt ladder and was very comfortable. We made our own, but it's something like this.

jt newgardwrote:

Mark I'm impressed! I'm 6'1" and was reaching from the 2nd step of my aiders on that pitch. Then again you're a legend and I'm a noob.

It's been a while but I think you're still clippin the split drives on that pitch! Now that is some real fine rock! Thanks RR

Have fun John. The Prow is a superb route.

Thanks JT. Now I just need to find a partner! Maybe I can convince Ricky to do it with me...lol I am still a wall noob though who hasn't done a wall yet, so it may be awhile before I get on The Prow. Had hope to do Leaning Tower last season but plans fell through unfortunately. So just trying to set some goals for now and keep practicing on my own until I can find a partner.

That bolt in second photo looks so far!

Christian Heschwrote:

Second the “superb route” recommendation.

fwiw, you may as well own a Kong so just make sure you have it before you head up there. Also fwiw, I totally spaced our #4’s and we never ended up needing them anyway. A single #3 should get you all the way to the top without serious struggle. Have fun!

Thanks Christian and appreciate the beta and Kong recommendation. Was thinking of making my own cheater stick, but the Kong looks great and I'll plan to just get it instead. Might be awhile before I can do The Prow, but looking forward to it some day!

TaylorPwrote:

My partner is 5'6" with a negative 1.5" ape. She used a stiffy draw for the bolt ladder and was very comfortable. We made our own, but it's something like this.

Thanks Taylor. This is great reference. I'm 5'4" and have a positive ape index of 2. However, based on yours and everyone else's suggestion, having a cheater stick on hand is the way to go.

If I remember correctly every third bolt is replaced on that pitch

I can't saying anything about that route by I will add my thoughts on reachy bolts.  Practice aiding on sport routes.  I am always surprised how far I can reach and how many sport routes can be aided without too much difficulty.  

Also, I have a mini cheat stick that I made out of just a regular draw and a mad rock trigger wire carabiner.  If I leave it on the ground I usually end up finding a way to reach the next bolt without it, but it is nice to have.  And the mad rock trigger wire carabiner is only 9 dollars, much cheaper than the kong.  I think everyone should have a regular draw with a trigger wire on it.  Then it's no extra weight because you are going to have quick draws anyways and it functions as a regular draw.  I've also put it on a sling going through a PVC pipe to make it into a longer cheat stick.  

Talk to Skot about extenders for rivet ladders. Once you get off the beginners walls, true bolt ladders are rare. You'll be climbing rivets for as far as the eye can see!

I remember admiring Robbins for the reachy nature of those bolts, for whatever that's worth.

John Vangwrote:

 Maybe I can convince Ricky to do it with me...lol 

If I am the Ricky which of which you refer it's certainly possible! Unfortunately I need to not do a wall this year because my health is recovering from being buggered to hell, but if you want to do it next year it's definitely on my list! Also I'm a tall ass mother fucker and can reach up high on my ladders real good. 

I'm 6 ft.  I used the orange Kong cheater stick on every other bolt.  Top stepped on the others.  The cheat stick helped make it quicker and easier on your core.

Mark Hudonwrote:

Talk to Skot about extenders for rivet ladders. Once you get off the beginners walls, true bolt ladders are rare. You'll be climbing rivets for as far as the eye can see!

Good to know! Will have to remember once I get there. I got an alfifi from Skot.

Ricky Harlinewrote:

If I am the Ricky which of which you refer it's certainly possible! Unfortunately I need to not do a wall this year because my health is recovering from being buggered to hell, but if you want to do it next year it's definitely on my list! Also I'm a tall ass mother fucker and can reach up high on my ladders real good. 

Yes, you sir, are in fact the Ricky I am referring to. And sounds good. As someone who has his share of health issues, I wish you the best in your recovery to better health.

Elliot Spauldingwrote:

I can't saying anything about that route by I will add my thoughts on reachy bolts.  Practice aiding on sport routes.  I am always surprised how far I can reach and how many sport routes can be aided without too much difficulty.  

Also, I have a mini cheat stick that I made out of just a regular draw and a mad rock trigger wire carabiner.  If I leave it on the ground I usually end up finding a way to reach the next bolt without it, but it is nice to have.  And the mad rock trigger wire carabiner is only 9 dollars, much cheaper than the kong.  I think everyone should have a regular draw with a trigger wire on it.  Then it's no extra weight because you are going to have quick draws anyways and it functions as a regular draw.  I've also put it on a sling going through a PVC pipe to make it into a longer cheat stick.  

Thanks for the sport routes suggestion Elliot. Will have a look around for sport routes that might fit the bill. Thought about jerryrigging my own cheater draw, but ended up finding a Kong.